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Alignment help and torque specs

3K views 13 replies 9 participants last post by  leaftye 
#1 ·
I'm going to adjust the camber on my lowered C5 to max negative on all 4 wheels. I assume I just turn the eccentric adjusters to the max point. I don't have the factory manual yet and was wondering if someone could tell me what the torque specs are on those bolts/nuts after I turn them. RA is this weekend and I'm a little behind on my prep since I haven't had the car very long. I assume the most I can get is about -1.5 deg.

Thanks for any assistance.

George E
 
#3 ·
If you are planning on running a high speed track I wouldn't go messing with your camber. You could cause some serious high speed instability because you will also be altering your toe and caster settings. And without proper alignment equipment you won't know what you have done.

I would highly recommend taking it to an alighnment shop to make sure your front and rear toe stay around zero and caster at a resonable setting. To many walls at RA for a squirly car to hit!!! :eek2:

Good luck,
 
#5 ·
ibjamin said:
Oh yeah, I'm going to get it aligned. Since it's on stands I figured I would get it close to what I want. Then it will be easier for the tech.

George
You might end up making it harder. The cams are designed to compensate for build tolerances so maxing one side out might put you at 1.6 and the other may only be 1.2. Trust me, I know about this first hand. I installed fixed camber plates and the rears were 7/16" off from one side to the other. :roll:

Have it all done by a tech and talk to them explicitly beforehand about what you want. Maybe some forum members local to you can recommend a good shop to bring it to.
 
#6 ·
George,
Stock lowered, you will be able to get about -1.7 front, -1.2 rear which is pretty good for the track, but inside front tire wear will likely suffer.

Be advised that small changes to the concentric bolts will also change caster in the front and both toe's in a big way. I wouldn't move camber bolts unless you have toe plates.

FYI, moving camber concentric bolts "out" will give toe in front and toe out rear due to the position of the tie rods. :cheers:
 
#9 ·
wtknght1 said:
You guys really need to think twice before you go lowering these vettes. It will really screw up the handling!!!!!!!!
Chris, my understanding was that the car is pretty well corner balanced from the factory. If the car is lowered an equal number of turns on all 4 corners (not slammed though) and is subsequently aligned it shouldn't be that bad. The problem is lowering it too much thereby limiting shock travel.
 
#10 ·
I went on that thread listing the torque specs but I don't see any for the lower control arm nuts/bolts. Anyone have those values?

I think a car can be lowered and improve handling as long as the shocks are properly choosen/designed. This is being done on a Mallett 435 with the Penske double's.

George E.
 
#11 ·
I think the torque specs for those bolts is just short of a pulled muscle - about 120 lbs if I remember right. I don't think you can get them too tight. :eek:

Lowering the car not only limits shock travel, but also changes the suspension geometry. That affected everything on my car - 2 seconds per lap worth. Be very, very careful with that.
 
#12 ·
You guy lowering and doing aligments really need to here what wtkight1 is saying. Let the suspension do it's job.
Tony #54

P.S.(don't spell his name wrong, he gets angrey)
 
#13 ·
ELF Z06 said:
P.S.(don't spell his name wrong, he gets angrey)
You mean Inge? Or was it Jason? :lol:

I went on that thread listing the torque specs but I don't see any for the lower control arm nuts/bolts. Anyone have those values?
Sorry,
I'm no where near my shop manual right now... but as Chris said, I tighten mine just shy of a pulled muscle as well. That is probably a lower value for me than Chris. :p
 
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