aluminum flyweel
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Oh yeah!!... the cost would be way way way too much to do it alone. You'll want to do it when you need a new clutch b/c you have to buy a new clutch/flywheel as a balanced assembly.
I have the LUK ProGold clutch kit w/ a Fidanza aluminum flywheel. It revs noticably faster. At VIR I got 3-5 mph more on the back straight.
I have the LUK ProGold clutch kit w/ a Fidanza aluminum flywheel. It revs noticably faster. At VIR I got 3-5 mph more on the back straight.
Sometimes stopping at a light the RPMs will drop to like 700 then come up to standard idle at 800 just b/c of the reduced inertia. Starting at a light is just fine and the same as stock to me. I can still idle forward in slow trafic w/o bucking, but it's a bit "worse" than stock. The thing that freaked me out at first was the mild vibrations. I thought I had a balance problem b/c the tech said it vibrates a bit now. After further research I've learned that the lower inertia just dampens the motor less so all the mechanical motions are enhanced and trasmited through the stick more. Drive your car and hold the stick and you'll feel a mild vibration... now just turn it up a click. Nothing bad, not like a masagger (vibratorIT L GO said:
) in your hand or anything. Just make sure the installer follows the new torque specs (will come w/ the flywheel) they're different than the stocker.
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Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel
12 h.p. on a stock Z06; Chevy Mag.
0-150 mph in 18 seconds vs. 21 seconds on stock Z06; Chevy Mag.
Yes, it does rev. faster.
In traffic, in first gear, it is a challenge to drive. Tricky footwork, entertaining sometimes and annoying others.
Yes, you should do the clutch, flywheel and pressure plate assembly at the same time.
12 h.p. on a stock Z06; Chevy Mag.
0-150 mph in 18 seconds vs. 21 seconds on stock Z06; Chevy Mag.
Yes, it does rev. faster.
In traffic, in first gear, it is a challenge to drive. Tricky footwork, entertaining sometimes and annoying others.
Yes, you should do the clutch, flywheel and pressure plate assembly at the same time.
3 second gain to 150mph is impressive. I should have done this when I had my clutch out. Having never driven with one before, and always used to drag racing, I was fearful of the "lower inertia" issue for standing starts. Sounds like its not really an issue... even less of one on a higher powered car.
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158 Posts
Thanks, this is the thread I've been searching for a long time.
So, the flywheel really helps then. That is really good news.
I've driven cars with lightened flywheels before and it made a huge difference. After all, it is rotational mass we're talking about in here.
How much for the setup you have Cobra4B?
GB.
So, the flywheel really helps then. That is really good news.
I've driven cars with lightened flywheels before and it made a huge difference. After all, it is rotational mass we're talking about in here.
How much for the setup you have Cobra4B?
GB.
The LUK stage II (ProGold) is $795ish for the complete kit wich includes flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, new throwout bearingis etc etc... it's made by LUK (the oem supplier) so it comes w/ everything a factory replacement would. It's a good idea to replace your slave cylinder while you're in there and get a remote bleeder line (I did).
When doing a clutch on a C5 make sure you have then new assembly match balanced to the old some mn6 cars receive a final balance and if their off they add smal weights to the flywheel and harmonic balancer. If you install a zero'd clutch/pp and your car is one of them, it can be off. Also, the mfg's are supposed to send out these new clutch kits allready zero balanced, but in talking to all of the big name tuners they ALWAYS re-balance the clutch assy and verify it. Lastly, if you go w/ the LUK make sure the pressure plate self-adjuster is properly adjusted for max clamp load. Mine isn't and the clutch slips. I have to pull my headers to pull the clutch inspection cover, to make this adjustment and it's been very annoying b/c I can't drag my car at all right now. I just haven't had the time to do all the work.
Cya,
B
When doing a clutch on a C5 make sure you have then new assembly match balanced to the old some mn6 cars receive a final balance and if their off they add smal weights to the flywheel and harmonic balancer. If you install a zero'd clutch/pp and your car is one of them, it can be off. Also, the mfg's are supposed to send out these new clutch kits allready zero balanced, but in talking to all of the big name tuners they ALWAYS re-balance the clutch assy and verify it. Lastly, if you go w/ the LUK make sure the pressure plate self-adjuster is properly adjusted for max clamp load. Mine isn't and the clutch slips. I have to pull my headers to pull the clutch inspection cover, to make this adjustment and it's been very annoying b/c I can't drag my car at all right now. I just haven't had the time to do all the work.
Cya,
B
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Cobra4B, excellent thread and nice AutoX by the way.
I've been thinking about this mod for a while. I was watching Dream Car Garage on Speed Vision where Tom test drove a 02 Z06 around the track. The only mods done to the track car they felt was worthy was the air intake, Fidenza flywheel, clutch, T1 sway bars and Bilsten shocks. There is a great article on the flywheel install. If I find it I'll post it here as well.
I've been thinking about this mod for a while. I was watching Dream Car Garage on Speed Vision where Tom test drove a 02 Z06 around the track. The only mods done to the track car they felt was worthy was the air intake, Fidenza flywheel, clutch, T1 sway bars and Bilsten shocks. There is a great article on the flywheel install. If I find it I'll post it here as well.
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971 Posts
Cobra4B,
It would easier with your setup for several reasons.
1) I have Spec stage IV Kevlar cluch, rated at 800 r.w.h.p. So super stiff.
2) I had my flywheel serated with a grinder to lock down immediately upon egagement.
3) I am running NittoRII's with 30 lbs. rear pressure. So it comes down to engine stall, clutch slide or wheel spin occasionally.
On the plus side, I have a full meal 429 in front of it. Creates a wee bit of low rpm torque.
30,000 miles just on my current clutch setup. 55,000 miles on this car.
Still going.
It would easier with your setup for several reasons.
1) I have Spec stage IV Kevlar cluch, rated at 800 r.w.h.p. So super stiff.
2) I had my flywheel serated with a grinder to lock down immediately upon egagement.
3) I am running NittoRII's with 30 lbs. rear pressure. So it comes down to engine stall, clutch slide or wheel spin occasionally.
On the plus side, I have a full meal 429 in front of it. Creates a wee bit of low rpm torque.
30,000 miles just on my current clutch setup. 55,000 miles on this car.
Still going.
I have a Spec 2/3 w/ an aluminum F/W. Can't comment on the performance difference b/c I put it on with my new motor. However, I have no issues at all regarding drivability. It took about 800 miles for the clutch to season (had some minor chatter at first, but now its gone).
JWz06.
JWz06.
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158 Posts
Thanks for the info Cobra4b.
GB.
GB.
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