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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
anyone wondering, i have exact measurements of drop on stock bolts,

went and got the Z lowered on the stock bolts saturday, i have the exact figures at home, i'll post tonight. but immediately lost (i think) 1 1/8" on both fronts, and little over a 1/2 inch on both rears. drove about 50 miles and all had corners had dropped another 1/4 to 1/2 inch. the only thing now is i'm waiting for the passengers side to come down a little more. i had a 220 pound buddy ride in the passenger seat for about 20 mins yesterday trying to get it to drop some more but didn't do anything. i can get 3 finger (index, middle, ring) between the drivers front tire and the fender. i can get all four on the passenger side. just hope that even out b/c it looks kinda goofy. i'll put up exact numbers tonight.
 

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All cars are different so there is NO "exact" measurement, only an approximation. But it is nice to know what can be done.

After lowering and after it settles you should have an alignment done.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
DJWorm said:
All cars are different so there is NO "exact" measurement, only an approximation. But it is nice to know what can be done.

After lowering and after it settles you should have an alignment done.
well, exact for my car! yes, i'm scheduling one for this weekend or next. mine isn't a daily driver. you think the passenger side will still come down a little more, i have about 70 miles on it and had a passenger ride in it for about 20 of those miles.
 

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It might but probably not. If one side settled in the other has also.

You might have to make a slight adjustment but don't forget about Rake and Corner Weight.

Remember that Cross Corner Weight % is the most important alignment Spec.

Also I always align with 1/2 tank and an equilivant drivers weight in the seat but NO passenger.

I also remove caster lead for tracked cars.
 

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The problem with measuring suspension height changes is one of identifying a reliable reference datum (the spot you measure from on the car to the ground). People tend to use the fender lip, but this is a rounded and chamfered edge, you get a different measurement depending on where on the lip you start and no one ever uses the exact same spot. Also, fender heights are not constant from car to car (or even from left to right on the same car). They vary as a function of how they're molded, how they're hung, and how weight is distributed in the car, and a bunch of other minor stuff.

In spite of this, you *can* determine fairly accurately how much you have changed the ride height. The threads of the adjuster bolts are known (of course, I don't happen to know this information, but I'm sure it wouldn't be hard to get. It almost doesn't matter, though). Count turns of the bolt, multiplied by thread pitch equals total movement. If you assume the ride height is "even" left/right from the factory, you can insure that you will still be even after adjusting by turning both left and right bolts the same number of turns.

It's a mistake to turn each as far as they will go.
 
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