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Discussion Starter #1
Ok all, I just got back from Passen Motorsports here in Columbus, Oh. They have a Dynojet Model 248C Dynometer. I've been looking forward to seeing what kind of numbers I would get out of my modifications. I must admit that I was a little disappointed with my results. My first run was 351.1 rwhp and 348.3 flbs of torque. My second run was 348.1 rwhp and 346.6 flbs of torque. 351.1 / .85 = 413.6 crank hp. I don't know how much of a factor the temperature is but it was 93 and very humid. I don't know what I was expecting, but if you believe the figures that all the products say they will give you, you might be disappointed. Oh well, the car runs great and sounds REAL good! Let me know what you guys think. (See list of mods below.)
Take Care,
 

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Z06 TOM,

Got mine dynoed on July 13, 2001 also on a Dynojet. It was 98 degrees at noon, but low humidity (California). She did 363.7 rwhp(about 428 @ the crank). Torque was 352.3(about 415 @ the crank).

You can see my mods below. Hope to get 8-10 more horses when Steve Cole(The Turbo Shop) does my computer on August 20..... /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif
 

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Discussion Starter #3
01ZEE06,
Well I guess I'm in the ballpark. /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_wink.gif You are making about 12 or 15 more hp @ the wheels. With the mods you have that would seem to make sense. I guess with my cats completely removed I thought I would make more. I should have gotten a base line number before I did anything to the car. How much improvement did you get from the throttle body? That may be the next thing I do to my car. It looks like it would be easy to do and I've heard it gives a nice gain. Please let me know what you paid for yours and what size it is. Also, how did you find someone to adjust your computer. I also intend to have the heads and cam done, but not for a while. (Wife says I put enough money in my "Toy" for now.) I would, however like to have my computer tuned. I know Hypertech makes the power programmers, but I don't think they have one for the LS6 yet. Oh well, take care and good luck with your next round of mods! /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_cool.gif
 

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01ZEE06 & Z06 Tom,

Both your numbers are still very impressive to those of us that a Bone Stock, keep up the good reports..........
/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_cool.gif /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_cool.gif /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_cool.gif
 

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A couple things to remember about DynoJetting:
1) If you're going to compare dyno numbers with someone else, always ask the dyno operator for "SAE Corrected" power and torque. SAE correction is pretty much the standard in the engineering world and is about the most real-world yardstick of power and torque performance on a dyno.

2) The DynoJet software, when a correction (preferably SAE) is enabled will compensate for most differences in performance due to air density and humidity. What the software will not correct for is IAT. The engine contols will dial-back the spark curve as IAT rises and performance drops accordingly. Of course, for the two tests above, this issue is pretty much moot because the dyno room temps for both were fairly close. It would affect a comparison of two tests done in vastly different temperatures.

3) In warm weather, the LS6's (and most Corvette engines of the last decade or so) performance is octane-restricted. Many times this goes without notice because the knock sensor detects detonation and the engine controls retard the spark but there is a power loss from that. You can figure, on a hot day, needing 94-95 octane to keep the engine out of KS-driven spark retard. The solution is to mix pump gas with a 100 octane, unleaded race gas. Somewhere between 3:1 and 2:1, depending on what oct. the premum pump gas is, will do it.

Last month I tested on a DynoJet and demonstrated this problem. With pump gas and 90 deg. in the dyno room, I was seeing up to 8-deg. retard between peak torque and peak power. I spiked the 92-oct. pump gas (3:1 pump to race) with 76 Competition 100 Unleaded. The spark retard was eliminated and the car made 8-more rwhp.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hib,
That's very interesting info. I had octane boost and 94 octane pump gas in my tank at the time of my runs. I have never known how effective octane boosting products are, but they claim a 5-7 point increase in octane level. I had also driven about 20 miles from my house to the dyno shop. As I said in my post, it was a very hot and humid day so the car was quite warm. They dyno tech said that fuel temperature will affect power as well. I also think my A/C might have been on for the runs. I think I forgot to turn it off before they put it on the dyno, and it was on when I got in the car to drive home. The tech might have turned it on when he pulled the car out, but I don't know. I think I'll take the Z back to the dyno this fall just for comparison sake. It was cool just watching the test being done. /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_cool.gif As I said, I guess I was just expecting a little more out of my modifications. But she runs great and sounds VERY mean /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif Thanks!
 

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Tom,
You're doing pretty good...
I have long tubes, donaldson, MAF screen removed & stock Ti exhaust. My HP was only 354.1 w/ 352.4TQ(SAE #'s)
Don't believe all the HP #'s from these bolt-on promoters/manufacturers. They will help overall HP, just not to the extent they claim(in MOST cases).
The combo of good mods that work well together will give you respectable results.
Now speaking of head & cams, I'm planning on going this route to............... /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_wink.gif
 
Z

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TOM TOM if you are going to add all this cool stuff and not reprogram the ecm then you will not make what you should . We just ran the dyno on wen 8-8-01 with my 01 ZO6 Mods are B&B shortheaders B&B prt verdone h pipe stock
air box w/ k/n and verdone air intake and the big ticket the power ecm good for 30 rwhp
with your mods. we are at 371.4 rwhp call me and will fax dyno sheets. by the way the humidity helps.
not the heat Hell I live in Arizona /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_confused.gif
 

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If you are gonna sell stuff become a supporting vender!!! /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_flaming.gif /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_flaming.gif
 

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In the dyno testing I did last month, I also tested octane booster, specifically NOS Racing Formula, which some research I did before the test indicated was one of the few boosters that worked. Mixed according to the manufacturer's instructions (a can to 16 gal of gas), it also eliminated my problem with detonation.

However, there are two problems with octane boosters like NOS products, that use MMT as the active ingrediant: 1) reduced cataylitic converter life and 2) poor economics. If you add up the cost of a can of booster in 16 gallons of gas and mixing pump gas with 100 oct. unleaded, doing the latter is less expensive. Bottom line: I would never use an octane booster on a regular basis. When I need higher octane fuel, I mix 100 unleaded with pump gas.

That said, my research showed that about the only octane boosters that are truly effective are the MMT-based products. Even then, they are usually less effective than their manufacturers claim because most octanne booster testing by mfgs. is done with 87-oct fuel rather than premium unleaded because the octane increases are greater.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hib,
Thanks again for the useful info. I have been thinking about looking into having my ECM reprogrammed. What is your opinion of this procedure?
Take care.
 
Z

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Remember you can't add hardware without reprograming software Joe verdone
We can do a custom program for 700.00. Most all you guys are doing all the same thing and I would say that I read most of you don't even touch the PCM(ECM). thats like writing checks and never making a deposit. there is no balance. ZOJOESVET Verdone Performance /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_confused.gif
 

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Hib, since I live in Va, not the Republik of Kalifornia, I have ready access to Sunoco 94 octane. I assume this is sufficient to eliminate or at least substantially reduce retard?
 
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