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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i tore the rubber boot on at least one of the lower ball joints while removing the subframes from the car. i was using a standard "pickle fork" type separator. the service manual recommends a puller type separator and gives a J-number which i can order from the tool guy, but is there any other tool that anyone has had success with?

now to find out if i can order new rubber boots!?
 

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I believe you are SOL. The boots come with the ball joints.
Let us know how you make out. :cheers:
 

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IT L GO said:
I believe you are SOL. The boots come with the ball joints.
Let us know how you make out. :cheers:

Correct. If you want a ball joint you have to buy the whole control arm! :eek:
 

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ppk1911 said:
i tore the rubber boot on at least one of the lower ball joints while removing the subframes from the car. i was using a standard "pickle fork" type separator. the service manual recommends a puller type separator and gives a J-number which i can order from the tool guy, but is there any other tool that anyone has had success with?

now to find out if i can order new rubber boots!?
Any rental yard will have the tool
 

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For future reference, loosen the nut on the ball joint and back it off two or three turns. Put some pressure(with a floor jack) on the lower control arm, and with a 1 inch round punch, hold it against the lower control arm (where the ball joint stud passes through), and hit the punch with a hammer. The ball joint will pop right out(due to its tapered shaft). You can also do this with tie rod ends, etc. (Make sure you have the car sitting securely on jack stands(or lift etc). :z:
 

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Check with these people I got new boots from them for my 85
I'm not sure about a C5
http://www.p-s-t.com/
You'll probably need to call them :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok, heck it's worth the phone call if it saves me having to replace the whole ball joint! i'll call energy and pst tomorrow!

thanks!
 

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I tore one on the front and one on the rear when I put poly bushings in. The front I replaced the arm :cry: it was about $120 shipped. The rear one I repaired with some high temp RTV and snake skin. I should of just repaired the front one too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
yea, silicon definitely crossed my mind-- we'll see what pst and energy have to offer and what it $$, otherwise i'll at least try the silicon and see if it works. might as well as the only option is to junk the arm anyway, so why worry about experimenting! :D
 

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jub jub said:
Correct. If you want a ball joint you have to buy the whole control arm! :eek:
The good news is that they aren't that expensive. I replace mine about annually. You can order the a-arms with stiffer rubber bushings (on the concentric bolt side) in them (which are "T1" parts) for about $165 each.

Arm - T1 Front Lower LH 12480077
Arm - T1 Front Lower RH 12480078
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
subdriver,

thanks for the PN's! good info to have. btw, love the look of your car with the polished CCWs!

:cheers:
 
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