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Discussion Starter #1
Time to ditch the Kumho Ecsta MX's and get something worthwile. I'm going to use my stock forged wheels b/c they're super light, strong, and "free".

So what sizes and what brand... Hoosier, Kumho, etc?

Thanks!
 

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Check out the race section, this issue has been covered many times. I am ordering Toyo RA-1's for this year. Not the best track tire, but it wears well for an R compound and is DOT legal to drive to the track on.

Next Year, I am going to get a trailer... :sneaky:
 

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Sorry to burst your bubble but the OEM wheels are NOT "super light" nor strong enough to support racing speed side loads.

I recommend a lighter and stronger set of race wheels such as CCW's or Kodiaks.

For track rubber I would look at either Hoosier or Kuhmo and Goodyear.

Note that the DOT Kuhmo V710 are good
Hoosier is coming out with an new DOT A3SO5 and R3SO5, hopefully before April 30, 2005. Many were dissatisfied with the wear endurance and higher pressures needed to run the A3S04's & R3S04's but improvements have been made.

Goodyear has a nice selection of DOT tires and also has their full race R tires, G-19 Sports Car Specials available.
 

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DJ Worm I would think stock rims would be ok for Toyo RA1's.

Probably not for Hoosiers or full slicks though.

Just trying to think cost wise if he goes to RA1's he doesn't have to buy an extra set of rims.
 

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Brian,
While I agree with DJ that there are better track wheels available, if you do decide to stick with stock, Goodyear makes a DE tire in OEM sizes specifically for the Corvette. It is the Goodyear F1 GS-CS. Same rubber as the DOT Goodyear GS-CS I've been told. I first learned of this tire when I saw John Heinricy with a set at a race in late 2003. :cheers:
 

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Do you think the Kumho 710's or Goodyears full race tires are faster/better? Debating on my own rim tire setup.

17" rims with Kumho's 295/335
or
18" rims with Goodyears Race Tires (305/335) I know these are measured in inches.

The reason I like the 18" setup, maybe it will work for the C6 Z06 as well. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #7
DJ... you're always spouting gloom and doom for the stock wheels. I have a 2001 so my wheels are forged. I also have a set of CCWs for street use and they're heavier than my Z06ers... yes they're a hair bigger (18's up fronts and 18x11 rears) but still heavier.

Not all of us have an extra $2k just to throw down on a 3rd set of wheels when I allready have two and the Z06ers will be fine.

I'm leaning toward Hoosier scrubs for $75/ea.
 

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Cobra4B,

I believe in the past posts, DJ said the 01's would be good. They should be twice as strong as the cast Speedlines.

There have been failures with 02+ rims on the track. I have also seen failures with the CCW's as well.

Grim
 

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Make sure you get CCW's track wheels, not their street wheels, obviously. If you call John and tell him what you want, he will build you a set to order that do exactly what you want. If you want extra-light, he can go with the forged alloy hubs, etc. They give good service.
 

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This concerns me. Does this mean that if I don't have $$$ to buy some track wheels and tires, I should'nt drive in DEs with my stock wheels and tires?

If this is the case, does anyone have any used CCWs that they could sell me that won't require extended wheel studs?
 

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Grim Reaper said:
Do you think the Kumho 710's or Goodyears full race tires are faster/better? Debating on my own rim tire setup.

17" rims with Kumho's 295/335
or
18" rims with Goodyears Race Tires (305/335) I know these are measured in inches.

The reason I like the 18" setup, maybe it will work for the C6 Z06 as well. :D

Apples and oranges, the GY race tire vs a DOT tire. GY handsdown. The GY tires are 450 + :eek2:

The GY GSCS tires are GOOD!
 

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My point in not recommending the OEM wheels is that I have personally witnessed center hub failure on both the '01 forged and the +'02 and up spun cast with not only wheel damage but car damage as well. The resultant repair bill is much more than a set of CCW or Kodiak race wheels.

In addition I have seen quite a few expensive OEM wheels ruined by fairly mundane off track excursions and even just a flat tire at racing speeds.

Neither the OEM forged or spun cast were engineered to handle the side loads generated in high speed track or AutoX.

Besides CCW and Kodiaks being lighter and stronger (safer) and offering a performance advantage by allowing larger tires by virtue of running optimum wheel sizes and offsets; they are much cheaper to repair being a 3 piece wheel.

A new wheel set runs around $1700 and a used set around $1400. That's not a bad investment when you can recover 3/4's of your cost later.
 

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If this is the case, does anyone have any used CCWs that they could sell me that won't require extended wheel studs?
I have one set left of CCWs, polished centers. I may offer them for sale, but I need them to keep my car off the ground right now :p

When my Kodiaks come in, I may post them for sale. I sold my last two sets for $1,200 plus shipping.
 

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Go with the CCW track wheels and you will never be sorry, as for tires I will through in the Michelin Sport Cups, Good grip, work well when hot (180+) and cycle well, also you can drive to and from events on them. They will be a little more expensive pr set, but will last 2 to 1 or better, Not as sticky as other R compound , but will give most DE drivers the same predictable handling from start to finish.
 

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DJWorm said:
My point in not recommending the OEM wheels is that I have personally witnessed center hub failure on both the '01 forged and the +'02 and up spun cast with not only wheel damage but car damage as well. The resultant repair bill is much more than a set of CCW or Kodiak race wheels.

In addition I have seen quite a few expensive OEM wheels ruined by fairly mundane off track excursions and even just a flat tire at racing speeds.

Neither the OEM forged or spun cast were engineered to handle the side loads generated in high speed track or AutoX.

Besides CCW and Kodiaks being lighter and stronger (safer) and offering a performance advantage by allowing larger tires by virtue of running optimum wheel sizes and offsets; they are much cheaper to repair being a 3 piece wheel.

A new wheel set runs around $1700 and a used set around $1400. That's not a bad investment when you can recover 3/4's of your cost later.
I've seen the center cracking on CCW's too, but does that mean you should not run them at races/DE's? No. Everything can fail, but acting like MANY OEM rims fail is simply an overstatement. The percentage of failures vs. non-failures is so far apart that there is really no need to worry. The key is protecting yourself. The majority of rim failures are not catastrophic unless there is an impact. Most of the failures out there began as mere stress cracks, something that can be caught in pre race/DE inspections. Most people I know who do DE's NEVER clean their wheels, they just pop them on and off during events. Clean up those rims, inspect them and protect yourself no matter what make and model rim and you'll likely NEVER have to worry about this situation. :guiness:
 

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Bob said:
This concerns me. Does this mean that if I don't have $$$ to buy some track wheels and tires, I should'nt drive in DEs with my stock wheels and tires?

If this is the case, does anyone have any used CCWs that they could sell me that won't require extended wheel studs?
It depends on how hard you are going at it. If you are a relative beginner on street tires, I think you are probably okay with street wheels. If you are really pushing it on extra-grippy track tires, then maybe you need a track wheel. You need to evaluate your situation. There are lots of parts and systems on street cars that are not designed to run hard and long at racing temps, pressures and temperatures. Brakes and cooling systems are obvious examples.
 

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Grim Reaper said:
Do you think the Kumho 710's or Goodyears full race tires are faster/better? Debating on my own rim tire setup.
No contest - Kumho V710! I did back to back to back tests with the GYs, Hoosier (S04) and the V710s last year at Roebling under very similar conditions. It wasn't really close at all. The Kumhos are easily not only the fastest of the bunch and easiest to drive fast, but they wear better and cost less!!! The breakaway of the 710 is so linear. You can push this tire so much further than the others and never get a 'snap' condition (either oversteer or understeer).

Heinricy raced on the GYs last year, but you'll never be able to buy 'his' tires. He set the pole however on the Kumhos. And he said afterward that if he'd had these tires the whole time, he could have gone a second faster!!!

The top 10 spots at the runoffs for T1 was dominated by the Kumho tires. Heinricy was on a GY tire that you'll never be able to buy, Baker was on Ho-Hos, then it was Croyle (Kumho), White (Kumho), me (Kumho - 3d fastest lap time), Roush (Kumho), Pettiford (Kumho), Lux (Kumho), Ziegler (??), Aqualante (GYs).

Considering Heinricy is in a car with parts you can't get and Baker owns a Porshe dealership, the rest of the 'normal guys' with normal cars were on Kumhos.

Do the test(s) yourself and see what you think. I know which one you'll choose.
 

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THE POINT is if there is a crack on a CCW you can replace that section; the center section, inside rim barrel or out side barrel; you don't have to trash the whole wheel.

If there is a crack on an OEM wheel you merely throw it away and order another one. Try replacing an '01 OEM.

Which way do you think is more cost effective in the long run?

Bottom line is I have never seen or heard of a catastrophic failure of CCW, Kodiak or Circle Wheels.

I have seen first hand, 2 catastrophic failures of OEM Corvette wheels on a road course which totaled the car and another in AutoX which tore off the right front suspension, damaged the fender front fascia and inner fender liner and brake. I have also seen the documented pictures of the '98 wheel on this site. And the OEM failures are not limited to us. As a corner worker at an AutoX I had a Porsche destroy an OEM wheel inmfront of me and watched (and ducked) as the wheel flew past me on the right and the car went skidding off course to my left.

Proof is in the trash bin.
 

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wtknght1 said:
No contest - Kumho V710! I did back to back to back tests with the GYs, Hoosier (S04) and the V710s last year at Roebling under very similar conditions. It wasn't really close at all. The Kumhos are easily not only the fastest of the bunch and easiest to drive fast, but they wear better and cost less!!! The breakaway of the 710 is so linear. You can push this tire so much further than the others and never get a 'snap' condition (either oversteer or understeer).

Heinricy raced on the GYs last year, but you'll never be able to buy 'his' tires. He set the pole however on the Kumhos. And he said afterward that if he'd had these tires the whole time, he could have gone a second faster!!!

The top 10 spots at the runoffs for T1 was dominated by the Kumho tires. Heinricy was on a GY tire that you'll never be able to buy, Baker was on Ho-Hos, then it was Croyle (Kumho), White (Kumho), me (Kumho - 3d fastest lap time), Roush (Kumho), Pettiford (Kumho), Lux (Kumho), Ziegler (??), Aqualante (GYs).

Considering Heinricy is in a car with parts you can't get and Baker owns a Porshe dealership, the rest of the 'normal guys' with normal cars were on Kumhos.

Do the test(s) yourself and see what you think. I know which one you'll choose.
Why race in a series if it is stacked like you say with JH and GY. I was told you can get the same tires off the trailer as him. No protest possible?

I have never noticed a snap condition with either the GY or Hoosier. The both slide nice for me. I never tried the 710's.
 
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