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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys-took my vette in to replace a cracked rotor and the mechanic told me my calipers were toast also! I called MDickie for some sound advice (thanks Mark!), and with my manly voice said,"I need to see that caliper"!

Anyway, the caliper is fine, the O rings are shot (fronts).

Ok, question:

Do I go ahead and replace with stock calipers?
Do a rebuild on the calipers (O ring and pistons)?

Or is this a good time to upgrade the calipers?

I put this in RACING because I have done about 12 DE's on these calipers over the past yr and plan to do MANY more:D

Any advice or suggestions are greatly appreciated-'cause I need to get back on the track by the 26th, been 3 wks since a DE and am getting the shakes :screwy:
 

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Stock calipers seem to work well for the T1 guys. I would suggest that you get some new stock calipers, racing pads, stainless lines with AN fittings, high temp fluid, and some cooling ducts. If you buy bigger calipers they can be very expensive and require bigger rotors and bigger wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I run race pads, ss lines and Dot 4 fluid.

Don't have the cooling ducts-perhaps that would help to put those on if I am changing out the calipers

Just did a search on previous threads on calipers-seems the SS pistons are the way to go with the stock calipers, unless I go with the Wilwood setup and spend some $
 

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The Wilwood caliper from LGM work the best. If you are doing many driving events the cost and longevity of the pads will pay for the caliper cost. What ever event you run you need DRM ducts connected to LGM spindle ducts. Stock calipers taper the pads when they spread. T-1 uses them because they have to. You can mod stock ones to make them better but they still are bad for hard use. Wilwood's feel the same at the end of the session as the beginning. SRF is the fluid to use for brakes. Stock calipers with Wilwood race compound last me 500 miles. Wilwood will last 1500 do the math and see how long it takes to retrieve you money spent on the calipers. Plus you can run the car faster and safer. You can also get the Thermlock pistons installed in the Wilwood's. Doesn't matter if you do it when you buy them or later as the cost is also identical except for the labor or time if you do it yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
makes a lot of sense, thanks Speedpup! Looking for Wilwood calipers online now

I started using Castrol fluid this season after reading posts of guys who made it through an entire season without bleeding.
 

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Bob said:
Stock calipers seem to work well for the T1 guys. I would suggest that you get some new stock calipers, racing pads, stainless lines with AN fittings, high temp fluid, and some cooling ducts. If you buy bigger calipers they can be very expensive and require bigger rotors and bigger wheels.
Absolutely right. You can buy stock calipers for about $105 each. I would replace them once a year if you're just doing DE stuff once a month. Try the Carbotech pads and get the brake ducts that blow the air directly on the rotors and they'll do just fine. You can buy stock rotors at Rockauto.com for $20 each all day long. If you don't want to pay $65 for SRF fluid, the Motul 600 has nearly as high of a boiling point and sells for $11. I've been using it in T1 for years - great stuff.
 

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blkZ06 said:
makes a lot of sense, thanks Speedpup! Looking for Wilwood calipers online now

I started using Castrol fluid this season after reading posts of guys who made it through an entire season without bleeding.
I went 1000 HARD all Track miles without a bleed I DO NOT recomend that. The rotors on my car get red hot even with the ducts and the fluid is still great. It did put me into the cones at a slow speed once but it will save tons of bleeds which is a PITA. I changed it after that. If you are not changing it a lot look at the wet boiling points. Figure the cost per fluid ounce not per bottle you'll find it is not that bad. If you look in the pits at a AMLS race you'll see most have SRF. I personally didn't like Motul 600 my second choice for less money would be Wilwood 600 or 610 I forgot which number it is. SRF is about 64 per liter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
wtknght1 said:
Absolutely right. You can buy stock calipers for about $105 each. I would replace them once a year if you're just doing DE stuff once a month. Try the Carbotech pads and get the brake ducts that blow the air directly on the rotors and they'll do just fine. You can buy stock rotors at Rockauto.com for $20 each all day long. If you don't want to pay $65 for SRF fluid, the Motul 600 has nearly as high of a boiling point and sells for $11. I've been using it in T1 for years - great stuff.
I used ATE super blue all last season and bleed before each DE, but I switched to Castrol this yr. I was running Hawk pads, got rid of those and bought a set of Carbotech pads I use Raybestos rotors-they are l18/each :thumb:

Well for right now it sounds like I will go with stock calipers, but am going to look into a bigger caliper by the end of summer :yeadog: sounds like the SS pistons and ducts are what I need to change now
 

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wtknght1 said:
Absolutely right. You can buy stock calipers for about $105 each. I would replace them once a year if you're just doing DE stuff once a month. Try the Carbotech pads and get the brake ducts that blow the air directly on the rotors and they'll do just fine. You can buy stock rotors at Rockauto.com for $20 each all day long. If you don't want to pay $65 for SRF fluid, the Motul 600 has nearly as high of a boiling point and sells for $11. I've been using it in T1 for years - great stuff.

I just picked some 1100 mile stock calipers from an 04 vert for $115 shipped over at the CF. I'll clean them up and paint them red.

Somehow I never burned up any seals, I do run some air to the front rotors.
 

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I'm using the Castrol SRF on one of my other cars,no race track use as of yet.Do I need to replace it after 18 months like the container says or can I go longer since its used for street driving.Got it from Baer for $80-I know I can probably get it cheaper but from where? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
silverz06vette said:
I just picked some 1100 mile stock calipers from an 04 vert for $115 shipped over at the CF. I'll clean them up and paint them red.

Somehow I never burned up any seals, I do run some air to the front rotors.
dang that's a great price!
 

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DA KAR said:
I'm using the Castrol SRF on one of my other cars,no race track use as of yet.Do I need to replace it after 18 months like the container says or can I go longer since its used for street driving.Got it from Baer for $80-I know I can probably get it cheaper but from where? Thanks
I would replace it as recommended. DOT4 is more Hygroscopic than standard DOT3.

Why are you using Castrol SRF for the street? It's not necessary. Just because it's made for racing, doesn't mean that it will work better in your street car.

Leslie: Are you running or plan on running race rubber? The larger rotors will give you more torque for stopping, but it's the tires that do the stopping. I would stick with stock if you're running with street tires.

Sal
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Salvador-Not planning on running race tires this yr, maybe next yr, need to find a way to haul them to the track first:thumb:
 

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Leslie,
Are you sure the mechanic did not say the dust boots (not the o-rings) were toast? I would expect that to happen.
If the boots are shot you can replace them if you want.
Many of us just run without them.
Stock rotors should be fine for what you are doing.
Brake ducting/cooling is always helpful.
Dave
 

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That brake fluid was recommended for the Baer GT brake kit which is basically the ZO6 caliper and Eradispeed rotors.Do you have an answer to my question?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
corvette dave said:
Leslie,
Are you sure the mechanic did not say the dust boots (not the o-rings) were toast? I would expect that to happen.
If the boots are shot you can replace them if you want.
Many of us just run without them.
Stock rotors should be fine for what you are doing.
Brake ducting/cooling is always helpful.
Dave
the rubber pieces over the pistons were SHOT. I am guessing those are O rings?

I just ordered some new stock calipers, but I am going to look into the Wilwoods :thumb:
 

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Leslie, FWIW, if you have a Major Guard GMPP extended warranty on your ride, calipers are covered under warranty. The service dept doesn't have to know you track your car.
 

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Leslie,
Sounds like the dust boots are shot. Usually not a big deal.
I have run a whole season without any front boots. They get very hot and burn, crack, etc.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
RobGrnfld said:
Leslie, FWIW, if you have a Major Guard GMPP extended warranty on your ride, calipers are covered under warranty. The service dept doesn't have to know you track your car.
yeh i have an extended warranty, but the guys at the chev dealership know I track my vette-the mgr does too, he has been kewl about my frequent visits. haha good idea, he might cover the cost of the calipers :jammin:

CorvetteDave-I ended up buying some new calipers, the cost of rebuilding the old ones didn't add up$. I figured out the alum pistons on the stock calipers transfer a LOT of heat, and the rebuilt kit with the stainless steel pistons and O rings is the way to go if you are running stock calipers
 
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