My 96 GS burned off its trailing piston dust boots at the first high speed event. The leading piston lasted one season. A friend who drove a Cobra with the same PBR caliper said he replaced his twice and gave up. They seem to have a very short life if you track your car. I haven't checked the Z06 yet, but I would not be surprised if they are cooked.
As long as you clean the piston before pushing it back into the bore when you do brake jobs, there should be no ill effect. Wilwood calipers don't have dust boots.
I replaced my aluminum pistons with SS ones. The seal kits are available from vettesnmore for $10 per wheel.
To remove the pistons, take the caliper off the car, with the caliper upside down, place a 2x4 in front of the piston to catch it when it is ejected. It gets ejected by blowing compressed air into the brake line inlet. Keep your fingers out of the way. Even with careful modulation of the air, the piston will be ejected with a vengeance. After the first one, you'll understand why. The piston will stop on the 2x4, it will not jump out and fly across the room.
Each caliper kit comes with new dust boots and pistons seals, replace them both. Be patient with the dust boots and you will figure it out. A few hints...
Slide the new boot onto the piston, and pretty far down so the ring that engages the caliper is about 1/2 inch below the bottom on the piston. Set the back side in the groove first, then work it into the grove from back to front. When you think you have it, twist the piston lightly. If it is seated all the way around, it will not pop out.
Slide the piston into the bore slightly, so it at or near the top of the piston seal. Slide the inner portion of the dust boot up so you can see the portion that engages the ring in the piston.
Press the piston into the bore slowly, I used a c-clamp so I could control the progress of the piston into the bore while ensuring that the inner ring of the dust boot remains in sight. With the piston about halfway in, extend the dust boot so that it engages the groove in the piston all the way around. Continue pressing the piston in until it bottoms.
I have no idea what would happen if you tried that. Don't let the piston pop out and get damaged. You are only one banjo bolt away from removing the caliper AND either way you need to bleed the brakes. You do need to replace the crush washers when you put the banjo bolt back in. Should set you back another $1 for all 8.
Don't worry about the piston boots...at all. They vaporize after the first driving event. It does no harm. I would replace your calipers once a year though especially if you do more than about 5 or 6 events.