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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

I'm going to embark on installing my BK harness bar and lap belt mounting kit soon -- but I just wanted to know if there is a particular SEQUENCE involved with installing the two, and also if there as any tips/hints I should be aware of to make the install go more smoothly.

As far as sequencing goes, should I remove the seats, install the lap belt mounts, reinstall the seats, then install the bar's stabilizer bars? Or, can everything be done with the seats out, and then can I put the seats back in as the last step? I'm not sure about what goes UNDER the seat rails, and what goes ATOP the seat rail hardware. (Perhaps this will all be very clear with the directions and pieces infront of me...)

Also, as far as removing the seats goes, since I have the memory option, are there a bunch of electronics and whatnot to disconnect under there? Is removing the seat difficult? I need some advice on the seat removal, I think.

Thanks, folks!

-Kirk
 

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Brey Krause Insall

I did the bar first. Snugged up the mounting bolts but did not tighten them (you will have to move the bar by hand to line up the antisub bars). You will need an asistant to hold one end while you work on the other. Make sure you pick up a T-500? special torx or as the directions call for at an auto parts store.

Then I loosened the one seat. (be very carefull of the front seat rail bolt covers, They snap off and on but are very fragile and can crack). You don't have to take the seat all the way out. slide the seat all the way forward. Tilt the seat back forward. Pad the door sill and the center console with some towels. You can now sit in the one seat and gently tilt the loose seat out the door and remove the inboard lap belt mount, replace the washer and add the racing lap belt mount. (This way you don't have to dissconnect the electronics from the bottom of the seat, its harder getting it reconnected. Just tilt the seats but don;'t disconnect the electronics.)

Then do the outboard mount. You will have to remove the black plastic mouldings but they just snap out and back on, fishing the belts from the slots as you go. This is best done from the outside of the car kneeling on a pad. Take off the outboard reel. Insert the outboard box and reel. (Be careful read the directions, one box is bigger than the other. I can't remember which side it goes on.)

You now have to modify the black molding for the seat belt bracket. I did this with a Dremel tool nd my assistant kolding the piece. I got by by triming and widening the slot by 3/16. snap the molding back into place fishing the stock belts back into the slots.. Snug the seat bolts back down except for the rear out board.

Do the other seat, inboard first.

Now do the anti sub bar to the rear outside seat mount bolt and the bar. after you have both antisub bars in you can snug them up using the new nut. tighten the bar bolts last. You may have to adjust the rod ends.

Tighten the Harness Bar mounting bolts last. Then go back and recheck the seat mounting bolts , antisub bar bolts and the harness bar bolts. Again, be very careful with the front seat bolt covers when snapping them back on.

30 minutes a seat. 1 1/2 hours total.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Brey Krause Insall

Dang, DJ! You're the MAN! Thanks a million for taking the time to write that!!! Wow! :D

Ok, so let me see if I have this sequence correctly (abridged version):

1) Install the harness bar itself (not the legs)
2) loosen the seats
3) Install the lap belt mounting kits
4) Install the bar's legs
5) Tighten things back down

Is that right? I'm kind of doing half of the harness bar (the bar, but not the legs), then the lap belt mounts, then the bar legs? In the big picture, I'm doing the harness bar AND the lap belt mounts "at the same time," yes?

Couple more questions.. I got "clip-in" belts -- so can I do all of this hardware installation now, and then install the BELTS later? I'm told that installing the belts (getting them oriented in their clips and locations and whatnot) can be time consuming, and I don't want to not leave enough time if I have to install the belts during some point in the hardware install...

Oh, and is it pretty clear how those fragile bolt covers come off? Do you just pry under them? (Again, I haven't gotten down there to look things over yet.) And is it clear what I have to loosen to lean the seats, or can I make the mistake of unbolting the wrong thing (like the frame rail from the floor or something)?

Finally (for now), when it comes time to widen the slot in the plastic, will I be grinding platic away from the "front" side of the slot or the "rear" side of the slot -- or from both? The directions made it sound as though you only need to gring to front part, but the picture looks as though they took some platic off of both sides. As you can imagine, I DON'T want to make the opening any wider than it NEEDS to be!

DJ, thank you again SO MUCH for taking the time to answer these questions for me! What a HUGE help!!!

-Kirk
 

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You can do the install in sections...

...at your leisure. For example do the bar today and the lap belt mounts tomorrow. You can always use the Factory belts whenever, they stay in. In fact I have found that for everday driving I click the passenger belts in the back out of the way....unless of course the 22 year old secretary needs a ride home then I always help her with that anti-sub belt. She always seems to have trouble with that one in her mini!.

Anyways only 4 bolts holding the seat in, 2 in back, 2 in front. The front covers come off from the top. just lightly pry from the center top with a flathead screw driver, then up from the bottom middle, DO NOT pry from the side or you will snap it in half! Again slide the seat forward and undo the back then back and undo the front, after removing the covers. Again don't disconnect the electrics because this would prevent you from adjusting the seat during the installation. Remember I favor the "Tilt technique" not removal. Again make sure you pad the doorsill and center consol with bath towels so you don't leave any inadvertant scratch marks.

When using the dremel on the side panel to enlarge the hole I placed the piece face up on the work bench as if you were looking at it from the inside of the car, with the bottom toward me. I had my assistant hold the top to lessen the vibration. Definetly wear goggles/eye protection as you will have hot plastic flying around. I found that maximum RPM on the dremel works best with the little 1/4" mean looking saw blade attatchement. If I can remember correctly I removed the 3/16" material from along the top edge of the belt slot. The dremel might tend to "skate when you first contact the material, so be careful. Once it bites in I apply pressure to keep it in the grove. Don't be afraid if you cut too much as it is in a spot where nobody looks and can hardly be seen, so a 1/4" removed is OK. Remember if you don't cut enough out you will strain the piece when it goes back in. so don't force it. pull it out and trim some more if necessary. I cut the piece from the front side so the burr left is on the inside. This is removed easily by just wiping it away.

The belts are the last thing to go in after the hardwear and you can do that when ever.

BTW, I didn't look at your sig. so what color is the car/interior and what color and kind of belts did you get? What kind of release mechanism. The reason I ask is that if it is the "Cam-Lock" I mount the drivers Lap Belt with the Cam Lock on the inside. This way I can leave the Lap Belt and Shoulder Bel attatched on the right as I slide in and just put it on like a right shirt sleave. Then I just have to hook up the left shoulder , lap and antisub and never have to adjust the right side of my belts. 2 Other important things: this allows the Cam Lock release to be activated in a natural downard action in an emergency and keeps the heavy Cam Lock from scratching the door sill and from being inadvertantly slammed in the door. I already have a nice chip in the door jam panel from the left shoulder belt, so be careful. The Passenger Cam Lock unfortunetly goes on the outboard side, however. but it is used less often. The Cam Lock will do some damage if it gets slammed in the door!

When I first get in , as I am 6'3/250 lbs I have the seat all the way back. I put the belts on, snug them down, laps first, then shoulders, and then move the seat forward, this pulls them even tighter for max. safety. Be sure and pull the door almost closed first, because you can't reach an open door with the belts already on, when cinched down properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks again, DJ!

Hey, any chance you could email me your phone number, so that I might contact you if I run into any snags? You clearly know your stuff when it comes to this install! If you're up for that, I'm at [email protected]...

As for my belt set-up, I got (2) 6-point Sparco harnesses with the rotating (as opposed to the lightswitch-style Simpson) cam. The belts are red -- and I think they'll look great against my all-black interior in my MY car! :)

That's a great idea about having the inner-most lap and shoulder belts connected at all times. I never thought of that. Great idea. Oh, and it's a great idea to keep that heavy cam on the inside (away from the door sills)! Now, are you saying that on the passenger side I won't be able to keep that cam on the inside?

I can't wait to get this/these in the car! :D

-Kirk
 

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With the Sparco....

...twist lock latch you may be able to put the passenger lap belt with the latch on the inboard side. If you can I would, with operation in an emergency being the priority. The label may be upside down, all relative. I would have to see it.
 

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With the Sparco....

...twist lock latch you may be able to put the passenger lap belt with the latch on the inboard side. If you can I would, with operation in an emergency being the priority. The label may be upside down, all relative. I would have to see it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: With the Sparco....

DJWorm said:
...twist lock latch you may be able to put the passenger lap belt with the latch on the inboard side. If you can I would, with operation in an emergency being the priority. The label may be upside down, all relative. I would have to see it.
I'll look into that as well. Yes, they're the twist lock ones, as you said, though...

UPDATE: Got the inside lap belt mount and the outside lap belt mount done on my driver side tonight. Not too difficult (thanks to you)! The toughest part was breaking the inside seat belt nut free (that puppy was ON there, and I needed an 18 mm socket (that I didn't have, and had to borrow from a neighbor). Otherwise, the seat "tilt" method worked great, and I really didn't have any other problems. And, turns out that a T-45 worked fine in the seat belt retainer, so I didn't even have to use a T-500 (which I THOUGHT I had borrowed, but which turned out to be a T-50 -- lucky, huh?!).

The only thing I didn't do to "complete" the lap belt mount install was sut the plastic and reinstall that piece yet. I'll do that tomorrow. I just want to be sure of one thing with that, though -- do you do the cutting exactly where they tell you to in the directions? You only cut away one side of the opening, and that side is the side with the majority of the molding (as opposed to the side with only 3" of plastic)? Just making sure! ;)

Oh, also, in the directions they don't tell you were to place the little o-ring they give you along with the inner belt mount spacer. I tried it one way at first, and things didn't seem right, as the mount clanked and didn't feel seated properly. Then, I placed it between the stock belt clip receiver piece and the BK steel piece, and now it's quiet and snug. Does that sound correct?

Thanks again, DJ! With the learning curve in effect here (and some nicer, warmer weather tomorrow), I should be able to have this puppy completed tomorrow with no problems!

-Kirk
 

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Cutting the molding....

I cut the molding as close to the directions as possible. You are only enlarging the slot that allows you to fish the stock seat belt back into its operating opening. This allows just the Tab of the outboard box to stick through. I kinda used the width of the tab as a guide. Again I only cut about 3/16 away from the TOP edge of the slot only. That would be the larger side of the piece toward the roof as it sits in the car. I cut from the leading edge to the exsisting seat belt opening. The leading edge is then covered by the door sill panel. The tab actually sticks out closer to the seat belt opening after the piece is reinstalled.

When you reinstall this piece start at the top first and work your way down after its in check to see that the slot that you enlarged is large enough. Then snap the door sill molding back in last.

One little problem I ran into the first install I did was that the second side didn't quite fit right. But it wasn't that I hadn't cut the slot large enough. On closer inspection I found that one of the centering tabs of the box was not in its relief hole just right. I had to loosen the box/reel mounting bolt and recenter the box correctly. This allowed the Lapbelt tab to sit lower and in fact I had cut the slot correctly.

On the "O" ring, I had the same learning curve. They really don't show how to install it. The second way is presumably correct as it is tighter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hopefully that will about do it for this thread (re: me bending your ear with all of these questions), DJ! I think I'm on track here, and if all goes well with the cutting and fitting of the door sill pieces, then I should be good-to-go.

Whoops -- one last question about the door sill: Did you REMOVE any other door sill piece but the one you have to cut? I found that I was able to wrestle out that piece by popping the lower sill piece out of 2 or 3 of it's fastening holes, and that the top-most sill piece isn't really secured that well anyway so I didn't take it out of the car. Did I do this right? Or, should I have removed these other pieces to get the one out? It's going to be interesting putting it back in, I think!

Thanks again, DJ!

-Kirk
 

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Sill molding

I took the bottom sill molding out completely. That was so I didn't break it or scratch it and it was then out of the way. I loosened the very top molding to get the side molding out.

To replace, thread the stock shoulder belt back into its slot, reapply the side molding starting at the top, sliding it up and under the top molding and snap back in half way. Fish in the stock lap belt at the bottom and finish snapping it back in around the new lap belt tab. Snap the bottom sill molding back on.

Don't forget to post the pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Don't worry, DJ -- I'll post pics as soon as I've got everything where it needs to go!

Can't wait!

:cheers:

-Kirk
 
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