No mater what kind of starter you have, it cant produce it's full torque unless it has enough current and voltage. In many cases the best way to think of electricity is by analogy to hydraulics. Pressure is the equivalent of voltage and flow is the equivalent of current. There is a limit to how much water will flow (current) through a 1/2 inch pipe no mater how much pressure (voltage) you put behind it. It took about a day's work, but I replaced the stock cables (+ & - which I believe are 2 gauge) with welding cable (00 gauge). Welding cable is larger in diameter and has hundreds of fine strands of wire in it. The positive cable runs from the battery to the fuse/junction box under the hood. I did not replace the cable to the starter. Other than removing most of the passenger side interior parts, the most difficult part of the job was moving the BCM to pass the positive cable under it. Also pay close attention to where the negative cable goes to chassis ground near the right rear speaker. The entire chassis is coated; so, scrape the coating off. The bigger cable adds about 2 or 3 pounds to the car.
The red top is a good start, especially if it is the Group 34R 800 CCA version. I had to lengthen the hold down bolts. It was a tight fit, but it does fit and the hatch closes. I have LG headers and a 30k mile stock starter. Neither are wrapped. When I press the start button the starter takes off like its coming out of the car regardless of temperature in the engine.
The red top is a good start, especially if it is the Group 34R 800 CCA version. I had to lengthen the hold down bolts. It was a tight fit, but it does fit and the hatch closes. I have LG headers and a 30k mile stock starter. Neither are wrapped. When I press the start button the starter takes off like its coming out of the car regardless of temperature in the engine.
