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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
When I put SS pistons in my front calipers, I popped the pistons out with air pressure. It was a hassle as I had to go to a local shop, borrow their air, they luckily had the right attachment.

Can't one just remove the pads and push on the pedal until they (the pistons) pop (with a rag in there to "catch" 'em of course!)? I expect a bit of a mess, but has anyone done this?

I've got the rebuild kits, and I need to do this, as the dust covers are melted, etc, and I know I'm a race or track day away from a seized piston :mah:

TIA,

Aaron
 

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often, one piston will pop out, and the other will be partially in. If this happen, you'll just keep pumping fluid everywhere.
 

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Yes you can, take out the piston side pad and put in a piece of wood the thickness (about) the rotor. Depress the brakes, then remove the other pad. Depress the brakes again. Keep doing this using thiner material between the pistons and caliper until the pistons either pop on you can pull them out by hand.

Sabot
 

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When I did mine, I used a 2x4 to catch the pistons. After the pistons whacked the 2x4, the pistons were still on the seals. I would try stuffing a rag behind the 2x4 for good measure. Once you can grab onto the pistons you should be able to walk them out by hand.

Let us know how it goes.
 

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Aaron. I wouldn't get your shorts in a bunch about dust seals. Wilwood calipers don't have them. Tech rep told me that its just to keep junk out when retracting pistons at pad changeover. Just clean the piston before pushing it back into bore.

I found out that the half life of a C4 PBR caliper dust seal was 2 laps at Blackhawk. My Grand Sport went 4 seasons without. Z06 still has front dust boots after 1 year of track time... still PBR caliper, but something different.

I'm not saying don't change them out, but rather I don't see a need to rush.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I kind of have taken my time, and I am thinking that the piston seals themselves (not just the boots) are probably deforming from heat.Also, I have got a slightly sticky feeling (BFR 3A specifically at my last race), so I need to do it...
 

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Don't do this. If you screw it up you will pump fluid out the reservior and get air into your master or the ABS pump valves. Then you will have aharder time bleeding the brakes or worse yet you will not know how to do it and you will need a trip to the dealer with the ABS tool. So if you don' have basic tools like an air compresor find a friend that does. You can even run to a gas station and any blower nozzle will blow the pistons out. You do not need a threaded fitting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
fatbillybob said:
Don't do this. If you screw it up you will pump fluid out the reservior and get air into your master or the ABS pump valves. Then you will have aharder time bleeding the brakes or worse yet you will not know how to do it and you will need a trip to the dealer with the ABS tool. So if you don' have basic tools like an air compresor find a friend that does. You can even run to a gas station and any blower nozzle will blow the pistons out. You do not need a threaded fitting.
I did it that way last time, it was a hassle. Not enough to go out yet and buy a "basic" (at least in your view) air compressor. I suppose I could add that to the "basic" welder I bought so I could weld in my roll bar and "basically" continue to spend and add to my tools / racing / corvette spending (it is always fun to spend).

All that aside, I do understand the point about ABS / bleeding - it can turn into a problem. Thanks for that reminder.
 

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cobra,

you can buy super cheap contractor grade compressor to do the job or run an airtool for less than 100 bucks when sales come and less then 200 for sure. Check out harbor freight .com for cheap ass tools that ain't pretty but get the job done. IMO buy all the tools makes your hobby more fun...enjoy
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
easy / proper caliper piston popping

I did go to the compressed air method again. I struggled less this time. Hint for others: if you use wood that totals 1.25 inches thick when you apply the air, it will keep whichever piston pops first just enough in it's bore to allow pressire to continue to other. Works perfect.
 
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