The TCS 1214 is a deadly killer. From what I read on this forum when my car started throwing this code, it is the Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM). Mine was throwing the code at start-up initially. If start-up was clean the code was never thrown during the ignition cycle. That changed over the subsequent week or so when it started throwing the code while the vehicle was moving.

The part was $935 and covered under the extended warranty.

Interesting timing - Z06Machine just mentioned that a loose alternator wire may be the culprit. It's worth a look.

 

Do a search "Service Traction Control, Active Handling, ABS". :cheers:

 

I just had your problem and the dealer had to change the EBCM under warranty.

 

I have extended warranty - I just want to be sure hat they will zero in on the real issue early on - not dick around for a few weeks swapping parts and wasting my time.

 

It seems to be a pretty common problem. It did start off random, but it finally stayed current. My car has 22000 miles on it and I'm down to the last month of warranty. I was happy it went out when it did.

 

Or I could just install a toggle switch that lets me turn off/unplug the EBCM and experience my car like a 1996 "Clown Shoe Coupe"... :rofl:

Hell of a lot cheaper than buying a Viper to park alongside the Z.. hehehe

 

Do you guys turn the key to on and let all the computers boot up before you start it? Or do you just go from off to start?

I don't know if that could have any bearing on your problem, but I read here a long time ago that it's best to wait a few seconds to let everything boot up before starting. That made sense to me so I've been doing it like that ever since.

The starter draws a lot of current and I can imagine a momentary low current situation where a capacitor or a resistor tolerance might interfere with one of the processors booting up. I know that sounds odd but electronics will do odd things.

 

Have you disconnected the battery or accidently tried to use the wrong key?

 

Do you guys turn the key to on and let all the computers boot up before you start it? Or do you just go from off to start?

I don't know if that could have any bearing on your problem, but I read here a long time ago that it's best to wait a few seconds to let everything boot up before starting. That made sense to me so I've been doing it like that ever since.

The starter draws a lot of current and I can imagine a momentary low current situation where a capacitor or a resistor tolerance might interfere with one of the processors booting up. I know that sounds odd but electronics will do odd things.

Yep, after 64,000 zmiles I always (and have always done so for all cars) allow the car to run it's checks - as that is when the data is running up and down the bus.

The issue crops up as soon as the ignition is on. As the rest of the idiot lights go out, and each sensor is polled for a response, the ABS and TCS lights are left on with a the message flashing.

Have you disconnected the battery or accidently tried to use the wrong key?

Wrong key? Nope.

Disconnected battery - sure - in 64,000 miles that battery has been disconnected more times than some people drive their cars with as many repairs as this Chebby has needed

In fact, the last time the battery was off was when the local dealer replaced the starter a while back. The problem cropped up about 2 months after that - and has been around for about 2 months now.

 

Try rebooting that car while running. That is start the car and let it idle, then with the car idling turn the ignition key again to the crank positiom. The start will not crank but the system will do another reset. For me this clears the code and everything then runs OK.

 

my car started doing this also 25k on the clock they say it is the BPMV that was 3 weeks ago. My car is still there and they say the part is on back order.....so they give me a cheby cobalt to drive. bad trade, well see what excuse thay have this week about where the part is...good luck

 

It isn't always the EBCM. Apparently the GM software has bugs that can cause this behavior if something peripheral to the system is not functioning properly. I have heard you should check the chassis grounds (there are a bunch of them and there are some posts here and on the other site to help guide you on that). Also, check to see if anything at all in the car is failing to function when this happens. In my case (when I had the same problem) my drivers door switches failed to function. At one point I figured out that if I jiggled the wires in the rubber umbilicle between the door and the body, then things would function again and I could re-start the car with no codes. There are connectors easily accessible by peeling back the rubber umbilicle and I found some corrosion on the power connectors. Since I cleaned them, the problem has not repeated. HTH

 

Mine did the same thing at first.
I would bet money its the EBCM.

It could be a short or any # of other little things mentioned already as well of course, but some of that is getting over my head.

 

i have 77800 on my frc and it did this a couple of years ago. i cleaned all of my grounds after reading a few posts on another site and have never had a problem since. it seems many random electrical problems can be traced to bad grounds on the c-5's. i would start there and see what happens. it is worth a try and cant hurt anything, it might even prevent a future problem. hope it helps.

 

i have 77800 on my frc and it did this a couple of years ago. i cleaned all of my grounds after reading a few posts on another site and have never had a problem since. it seems many random electrical problems can be traced to bad grounds on the c-5's. i would start there and see what happens. it is worth a try and cant hurt anything, it might even prevent a future problem. hope it helps.

I am with you. Most of the time its a lot easier to just change the EBCM. I am sure the circuits inside the EBCM are grounded to the box and/or casing. Probably why changing the ebcm works most of the time. From the problem and the ammount of codes its definetely the EBCM, but do check the grounds first.. Measure up the resistance from ground fromt the EBCM plug to directly the block and be sure its not 1) fluctuating and 2) its no higher than 0.100 OHMs...

Check the ground behind the cylinder head... check the grounds to the chassis... throw a ground from the EBCM plug to a good ground location and clear codes and see how it goes. If this doesn't solve it.. EBCM.

 

I had this problem at one time. Turned out to be the ground wire.