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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to remove my front bolts to bring the front end down and use longer bolts in the rear. I want my ride height to be 26in in the front and 26.25in in the rear with a full gas tank.

After I do this will it be possible to get my car aligned and corner weighted properly? Thanks.
 

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Aligned yes. Corner weighted no.

The front bolts are what controls ride height and with them gone you can't adjust the height and hence the weight on that corner. You will get what you get for corner weight. :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info. So when you get the car corner weighted is it normal to have all 4 corners ride height a little different afterwards?
 

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georges03zo6 said:
Thanks for the info. So when you get the car corner weighted is it normal to have all 4 corners ride height a little different afterwards?
Yes, but it is probably not going to be visually apparent.

A small change in ride height on a corner makes a big difference in corner weight. And, there are many ways to impact corner weights.

For example, if I need to add weight to the RF/LR cross, I can:
- Raise RF
- Raise LR
- Raise RF and LR
- Lower LF
- Lower RR
- Lower LF and RR
- Raise RF and lower LF
- Raise LR and lower RR
- Raise RF and lower LF and raise LR and lower RR

There are several other options as well. The point is there is a lot of flexibility to get ride height and corner weights pretty close to where you want them.

Here is a decent article on corner weighting:
http://www.grmotorsports.com/cornerweight.html
:cheers:
 

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I talked about this before in another thread. Be careful about lowering the car. You bottom out shocks, screw up suspension geometry and aerodynamics (rake). Either take the thing to the pros for setup or leave it alone. Just to give you an idea of how much difference it makes. From 03 (suspension set all the way down) to 04 (letting Phoenix set it up correctly) was worth 3 seconds per lap to me!!!!!!!! And the car is a joy to drive now!
 

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I see this all the time on the forum... . people wanting to lower the car to the point of down right low. The car needs a bit of height to allow the suspension to do it's job. It doesn't have to look like 4X4 but at the same time it can't look like a low rider and still perform. These cars are touring cars and they can do it well. Now i've said it.
Tony #54
 

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Yes you can corner weight it like that, but you need to be creative.

Its not going to be as simple as turning a bolt, and its a pain in the ass, and not at all worth it. Listen to the guys above, they know what they're talking about.

But I'll tell you how to do it anyway:

You buy yourself brass shim stock in a variety of thicknesses, and you make a shim to go under the spring on the front end. By varying the thickness of the shim, you'll tweak the corner weights.

Again, don't do it that way, play it safe.

Does anyone make uprights with a drop built into them? I know LGM has what appears to be a lowered set on his race car, but not sure if they have a drop built in, or what. Anyone know?
 

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once you get your ride height even on all four corners, if you go even rounds, say half in the front and full rounds in the rear the heights shouldn't change. With more weight being on the nose with a stiffer spring, you don't need to go as much on the front as the rear to acheive the what you're looking for. And please make sure the sway bars are unhooked when you do this.
 

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You can still set the crossweights by adjusting the rear bolts. Its better to have the ability to adjust both front and rear, but you can get the crossweights done with adjustability at only one end. I've done it, but I'd rather have some adjustability at the front too.

Also, like has already been mentioned, you're probably sitting too low anyway so you'd be better off to raise it back up and use the adjusters on the front.
 

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Mike,
What would hold those shims in place and keep them from falling out?

As mentioned above, I supposed you could attempt the corner weight it with the rears only. I hadn't thought about that. Not sure how successful you'd be though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I decided that I could get the car low enough without removing the front bolts. I have it at 26.25in in the front and 26.50in in the rear. Now I'm going to take it in to get aligned and corner weighted. Thanks for the suggestions everyone.
 

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Where are you measuring from/to to get your 26 inches?
 

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Brad -
The spring pressure on the arm would hold it in place. I suppose you could glue it, but I doubt you'd need it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
wtknght1 said:
Where are you measuring from/to to get your 26 inches?
I am measuring from the ground up through the center of the wheel to the fender. I have the front bushings completely cut off and the bolts turned all the way up and the rear has new longer bolts.
 

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mgarfias said:
Brad -
The spring pressure on the arm would hold it in place. I suppose you could glue it, but I doubt you'd need it.
So what happens when the car unweights over a rise and the a-arms drop below the leaf spring? Not going to be much holding it in then... :eek:

I am measuring from the ground up through the center of the wheel to the fender.
While this works visually, the fendors are not a perfect alignment tool. If you have ever had one off, you will know how much play is in one when you bolt it back up. That method will be close, but there are more accurate methods as Chris mentioned above. :cheers:
 

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I measured mine before loading it into the trailer. I have about an inch of rake using the fender measuring system. The front measurement was about 26.5 while the rear was around 27.5...give or take a 1/4 inch.
 
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