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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Zee will be 4 years old this summer, so was thinking of changing the coolant, even though it's "supposed" to be good for 5 years.

Does anyone have or know where a good Do It Yourself write-up is? I looked in the Do It Yourself section on this site but didn't see coolant change ... kind of surprised someone hasn't added that one to the DIY section.

Thanks
:cheers:
 

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If the procedure below is not followed a low or high coolant level condition and/or vehicle damage could result.

Park the vehicle on a level surface.
Follow the steps below to remove the radiator surge tank fill cap: Slowly rotate the cap counterclockwise1/4 turn and then stop. Do not press down.. Allow any residual pressure, indicated by a hissing sound, to be relieved. After all hissing stops, continue turning counterclockwise to remove the cap. To tighten the cap, use hand tight pressure only. Open the radiator drain cock. Allow the system to drain completely. Inspect the engine coolant: Discolored -- follow the flush procedure below. Normal in appearance -- Continue with the next step. Close the radiator drain cock.

Important
When filling the cooling system use a 50 to 60 percent concentration with DEX-COOL® coolant.


Fill the system through the surge tank opening.
Fill half the capacity of the system with 100 percent DEX-COOL® coolant. Slowly add clean drinkable water to the system until the level reaches to the base of the neck.
Start the engine.
Idle engine for 1 minute.
Install surge tank cap.
Cycle the RPM, idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until engine coolant reaches 99°C (210°F).
Shut off the engine.
Refer to step 3 above to remove the surge tank cap.
Start the engine.
Idle engine for 1 minute and fill surge tank to 1/2 inch above COLD FULL mark on the radiator surge tank.
Install the surge tank cap.
Cycle the RPM, idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until engine coolant reaches 99°C (210°F).
Shut off the engine.
Top off coolant as necessary, 1/2 inch above FULL COLD mark on the radiator surge tank.
Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and the compartment.
Inspect the concentration of the coolant.
Flush Procedure

Important
Do not use a chemical flush.


Block the drive wheels.
Place the transmission in Park or Neutral.
Engage the parking brake.
Run the engine until the thermostat opens.
Stop the engine.
Follow the drain and fill procedure using only clean drinkable water repeat if necessary until the fluid is nearly colorless. Refer to the drain and fill procedure.
Fill the cooling system. Refer to the drain and fill procedure.

This is the exact procedure used from GM service information. This is how the flush and fill procedure should be performed by dealership personnel.
HOWEVER, I would question the need for the flush.
Unless you are experiencing deposits on the filler neck to the surge tank, or you have about 100k or the vehicle has been coolant tested, and it is breaking down, I would not bother.
As long as the coolant is not low for an extended period of time, I would suspect that you are doing just fine.
At least test the coolant first, to make sure.
Allthebest, c4c5
 

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Thanks for the instructions! I'm going to change my coolant when I replace my surge tank with a painted one. I was wondering how I was going to do it!

Now I'll just have to find that radiator drain cock.

chris
 

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Drain valve is on the lower passeger side of the radiator. It is a 1/4 turn valve so dont turn it more and you will break it. :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the instructions. My car has low miles, so all I'm going to do is just drain the system from the radiator drain cock and refill it with 50/50 mix of Dex-Cool and distilled water. I'm sure whatever is left in the block is still good enough to mix with the new stuff.

I figure if I change the coolant this way every 3 or 4 years there will be no need to completely drain the block or flush the system. :thumb:

Sounds like an easy task, and well worth doing. Most people never consider good routine maintenance on their cooling system until it's too late. :NoNo:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
IT L GO said:
Drain valve is on the lower passeger side of the radiator. It is a 1/4 turn valve so dont turn it more and you will break it. :cheers:
Are there any shrouds, etc that need to be removed to access the drain valve?
 

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Always use distilled water :yeadog: Calcium deposits in regular water love to adhere to aluminum parts. :NoNo:

Jack
 

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gsjack said:
Always use distilled water :yeadog: Calcium deposits in regular water love to adhere to aluminum parts. :NoNo:

Jack
I know it seems to be the general consensus to use distilled H2o...but i read somewhere that pure H2o (ie distilled) will "draw" on metals (aluminum & copper) & eat it up over time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
JETBLU said:
I know it seems to be the general consensus to use distilled H2o...but i read somewhere that pure H2o (ie distilled) will "draw" on metals (aluminum & copper) & eat it up over time.
I've heard others say that, but I'm not too sure about it. I've heard that "de-ionized" water is considered "hungry" water, meaning it will draw or attack metals.

Distilled water just means it was vaporized and then re-condensed to get all the minerals out of it. In essence, it's basically pure water.

If you look at the GM manual, they say to use clean "drinkable" water ... whatever that means. At the grocery stores they do carry jugs labeled "drinking water" and others labeled "distilled water". Maybe the drinking water is just filtered water?

I've seen a lot of factory service manuals for other vehicles call out "distilled" water.
 

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Does anyone have any knowledge of "Water Wetter" regarding its compatability either with Dex-Cool or aluminum engines?
 
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