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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I installed the Haltech TRIC and went to the track last night. Got nowhere near the gains I thought I would, I actually lost HP, so something else must be wrong. Get off the track and withen 5 miles the Check Engine light comes up... :/ I've got 3600 miles on this '02 Z06.

I went through the DIC and grabbed all the codes, and will now go see what they are, but I'll list them here for you guys to tell me if any of them jump out and mean something real.

TCS C1221H
TCS C1222H
TCS C1248H

HVCM B0333H

PCM P0171H
PCM P0174H

My next question. Are these different then the check engine light? Can only the dealership read the check engine light with a Tech II or similar device?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ok, I checked the codes, and found all but one of them...

TCS C1221H = LF wheel speed sensor input signal is 0
TCS 21222H = RF wheel speed sensor input signal is 0

These are both from being on the dyno probably.

TCS C1248H couldn't find this one in the list of codes

HVCM B0333H = outside air temp sensor open

This might be from me unplugging the harness to install the TRIC, but I never keyed the car on, with this unplugged. And the outside temp is working and displayed on the dual zone climate control panel.

PCM P0171H = fuel trim system lean bank 1B
PCM P0174H = fuel trim system lean bank 2B

These don't make sense. Both times I was on the dyno this car is running richer than anything I've ever seen. It is running at 10.5:1 and 11:1 air fuel ratio across the board. I thought I heard a slight ticking, and thought it might be an exhaust leak. When I put new plugs and wires in the car I made sure to put some more twist to all the exhaust manifold bolts and I turned them each a bit. I need to get down to where the H-pipe bolts up and see if I can tighten them up some. That would explain it running so phat...

Any comments?
 

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Well, the one thing I learned long ago about modding cars is never do more than one thing at a time since its a headache to diagnose if something goes wrong.

Describe the order in which you did everything.

Did you make sure not to push the filter onto the TRIC too far? It goes up to the little inner lip...

All clamps tightened? Cobra lined up and clamped?

JC
 

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HI, first things first

Hi there,
The B0333 is due to the fact that you removed the connector from the outside temperature sensor, located on the radiator shroud, and you must have turned on the ignition while it was disconnected. Reconnect the connector, under the passenger side brake duct panel.
Next, c1248 should NOT be there, clear it and see if it comes back.
Fuel trim lean codes indicate that there may be a loose air injection hose, and or an exhaust leak.
Take a look, and let us know, c4c5
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
NC45S

You are right, modding many things can cause a headache. I installed the NGK TR6 plugs gapped at .060" and installed some GMPP red plug wires and the DaVinci fan controller at the same time. No problems with them. Then I installed the 160 thermostat and the Throttle Body Coolant Bypass kit as well. No problems. Was running pretty respectable times with it like that.

(However I don't think the fan controllor is working. The car runs at 167-176 on the freeway or when cruising along, but when I stop at a light it shoots up to 198-205 like stock. I will have to go play with a test light and make sure it is working.)

Then I went and installed the TRIC. I didn't feel a SOTP gain, but a friend said the car sounded louder and could hear it sucking more air (I have some hearing losses so small differences are sometimes hard to discern.)

c4c5specialist

Thanks for the quick reply.

I know for a fact that I didn't not key the car on with the outside temp sensor unplugged. The car was dissasembled and the keys were inside. Who knows...

What AIR injection tubes do you mean? The ones that go into the exhaust manifolds or the tube that connects to the intake?

I've been thinking there is an exhaust leak (not been getting great mileage and has had a slight ticking since new, and running so phat on the dyno with the wideband O2 sensor) but I just need to get under the car to see if there is a leak where the exhaust manifolds meet the H-pipe.

So should I clear all those codes? Will that turn off the check engine light?
 

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Yes, clear the codes

Hi there,
Yes. please clear the codes, and let me know what codes come back.
Also, try not to run the dyno for 1 week, and you can see what redevelops.
Yes, I was talking about the tubes to the exhaust manifolds. Leaks behind the oxygen sensors will not cause any issues, so you must have an issue before the o2s.
Please let me know what you fine during your visual inspection.
Best to you, c4c5
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the last reply c4c5specialist.

Staying off the dyno will be hard :) I wanna see what this TRIC gave me so I can report back to everybody. Are the first O2's in the exhaust manifolds like most cars? Then you are right that the leak after them would not make a difference. Didn't think about that one...
 
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