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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've seen several people post about a 'clicking' type noise in the rear end and I have had the same issue myself for a couple of years.
Thought it was the clutch plate issue that was addressed in a TSB a couple of years back.

Took it in for service back then and they were required to first try replacing the rear end fluids....and only if that didn't work, then they replaced the clutch plates.

In my case, replacing fluids seemed to work for a little while but then the clicking returned (very random and intermittent). Just didn't mess with it for a long time and tried to ignore the sound.

Right before the Fest I took it back in to my dealership and had them take a look at it again. The Corvette mechanic, after riding with me for a while, took a good look underneath and noticed that the end links on the rear sway bar looked bad.

He ordered them and after the Fest, I took the Z back in and he replaced both sway bar end links (under warranty).

It's been about 3 weeks now and I haven't heard the 'clicking noise' since so maybe...

Can't guarantee that was the fix but I'm pretty optimistic at this point.

Thought I would share this in case others get that irritating clicking sound from the rear.

Mike
 

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Mike, thanks for the heads up info. Others will appreciate it by looking up your thread under SEARCH in the future I'm sure. Any trouble shooting advice is worth it's weight in gold when your car is acting up and will help some delaerships as well. I always use SEARCH and it's helped me on a few issues.
 

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There is a TSB on the rear end clicking noise. See below: Also stated in the other forums loose axle nut can also cause the problem.

Tapping or Scraping Noise From Rear Wheel Area (Replace Wheel Drive Shaft Nut) #07-04-95-001 - (09/26/2007)

Models: 2004-2008 Chevrolet Corvette and 2004-2008 Cadillac XLR
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Condition
Some customers may comment on a tapping or a scraping noise coming from the rear wheel area.

Cause
This condition may be due to the torque on the wheel drive shaft nut relaxing over time.

Correction
Replace the left and the right wheel drive shaft nut following the procedure below.

Remove the center cap from the rim.
Remove and discard the wheel drive shaft nut.
Apply LOCTITE™ 272, or equivalent, to the threads of the axle shaft.
Install the nut and tighten to the new specification.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 215 N·m (160 lb ft).

Install the center cap to the rim.
Important: The vehicle should not be driven for 24 hours following the repair in order to allow the thread lock to cure.
Parts Information
Part Number.....10257766
Description......Nut
Qty................2 (one per side)

Warranty Information: Labor op F9712 0.3 hr.
 

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Does "end ties" mean the tie rod ends? I'm not up on the rear suspension terms...

And if so, are those the ones you need to lube especially if you track the car?

And then the big question, without indicting yourself too much, did you lube them regularly???
 

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Does "end ties" mean the tie rod ends? I'm not up on the rear suspension terms...

And if so, are those the ones you need to lube especially if you track the car?

And then the big question, without indicting yourself too much, did you lube them regularly???
There are zerks on the rear tie rods (called toe rods in owners manual) that require grease, especially if tracked. Check your owners manual for intervals.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Does "end ties" mean the tie rod ends? I'm not up on the rear suspension terms...

And if so, are those the ones you need to lube especially if you track the car?

And then the big question, without indicting yourself too much, did you lube them regularly???
No, and I apologize for calling then 'end ties' instead of 'end links' (original post has been corrected).

The parts I was talking about are the end links for the rear sway bar.
Copied and pasted this info (below) for your edification.

Part# 20822934 - Upgraded Metal End Links - $22.78
GM Has now updated all C5 & C6 to the metal end links. These are a direct replacement. These all metal end links are an easy replacement and will solve the common "clunk" noise



Sorry for the confusion.

Mike
 

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No clicks yet.
But drive train noise can be a pain to find the problem if you don't know what your looking for. Different cars do different things. U joints can make all sorts of noise to confuse you, so in some cases I change them first because they are cheep and easy to do.
Thanks for the Info I will keep this in mind for the Future
 

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I also had a very random "clicking" noise on my '09, C6 Z06 that turn out to be the end links. The end links had a tiny bit of slack in the end link ball that allowed it to move just enough to make a click when there was movement on the rear anti-sway bar. It is different from the loose axle nut sound in that it is a much more random sound while driving at any speed.
 

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Just a quick update...
Since the dealership replaced the metal end links (under warranty) back in October, I have not had the 'click' or 'clunk' since.

The upgraded end links must have done the trick.

Mike
Am I to understand that these replacements are NOT the same as those installed @ Bowling Green?
 

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Took car in to dealer yesterday. They called today to tell me the rear links need replacing. I asked if they would do the fronts at the same time (under warranty) and they said they couldn't unless they were bad...so, may have to go back some day to do fronts.

Great thread, problem solved!
 

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I've had clicking sounds coming from the rear of my car. After searching this thread and others. I purchased the new style GM endlinks, but before installing them, I decided to check the axle nuts which I had read could be loose. Guess what, they were. I torqued them to 150 (read specs from 130, 140, & 160) because that's as high as my wrench would go. Guess what? Part of the noise is gone. So, I went ahead and jacked the car up to replace the endlinks and decided to check the torque on the sway bar brackets. Guess what? The upper left sway bar bracket was at least 6 turns out. Surprised it didn't fall out. So, torqued the brackets, went for a drive, and now I think the noise maybe completely gone. So, I'm going to drive the car for a few days before I go to the trouble to install the replacement links.

Just thought I would pass this along.
 

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I've had clicking sounds coming from the rear of my car. After searching this thread and others. I purchased the new style GM endlinks, but before installing them, I decided to check the axle nuts which I had read could be loose. Guess what, they were. I torqued them to 150 (read specs from 130, 140, & 160) because that's as high as my wrench would go. Guess what? Part of the noise is gone. So, I went ahead and jacked the car up to replace the endlinks and decided to check the torque on the sway bar brackets. Guess what? The upper left sway bar bracket was at least 6 turns out. Surprised it didn't fall out. So, torqued the brackets, went for a drive, and now I think the noise maybe completely gone. So, I'm going to drive the car for a few days before I go to the trouble to install the replacement links.

Just thought I would pass this along.
It's times like this that make you wonder about the UAW. Glad to hear you found the issue and corrected it yourself! Now, it least you know it's done right!

Since the swaybar brackets are a known issue, you'd think GM would have used blue loctite or something to avoid the the bolts backing out. I've known about this issue since 2006, so it isn't "new."
 
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