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Does anyone know how to bleed out the clutch fluid in the Z? I checked my clutch fluid the other day and it looked contaminated. I want to bleed it out and put in new fluid with higher boiling points. I crawl underneath only to discover that the fluid line goes to the top cover of the clutch assembly. There is no bleed valve anywhere. I read the owner's manual and it said that the cluth system is self adjusted.

For what I understand, self adjusted system is one that comes with the whole thing (clutch master cylinder, lines, hydrolic pump, and all accessories) in one piece with no bleeding valve. On my old Toyota, I change out the clutch master cylinder without changing out anything else and there was a bleed valve near the transmission. I had also seen on other car where you go and buy a clutch master cylinder, they will sell you what they called a self adjust system, which comes with everything.

Is this the case with the Z06? If so, can I just suck the fluid out of the cylinder and add in new fluids? If not, Can anyone show me how to bleed this system?

Thanks
 

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There is a bleed valve - directly above the spot on the bellhousing where the line enters to the slave. It's a major bitch to get to, probably have to pull your drivers side exhaust apart to get to it, but it's there. Takes a 12mm socket if memory serves correctly.
 

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Clutch fluid, and issues.

HI there,
WEll, TAMUz is right, it is very tough to get to. I usually use a box wrench, and have to slide my small hands into the gap to open the screw.
Components are available separately, Master, and slave. The master comes with the line to the slave.
As for the clutch fluid, I would say only to use GM clutch fluid, pn 12345347.
YOu can use other brake fluid based fluids, however, you may experience some squeaking of the seals within the master cylinder when you push the pedal. This anomoly does not happen all the time, but it does happen.
Besttoyou, c4c5:z:sinceidonthaveahammer
 

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Need a lift. Remove both sides of exhaust from collector to cat-back. Then remove the cover plate to the torque-tube (bunch of screws). The bleed value is a blind-reach-and-feel operation. I watched a Corvette-only-shop tech bleed my clutch. Took him a real clock hour. Charge was $117 including a liter of ATE Super Blue Racing fluid.

As a famous man once said..."bleed those clutches when the fluid looks funky." Best way to avoid/cure sticking clutch pedal.

Ranger
 

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Bleeding all the flued out is probably better, but this DOES WORK VERY WELL. I just change the flued in the clutch resoiver. Pull it out with a syring or turkey bastor. I do this regularly now and have ELIMINATED my clutch problems. No bleeding,easy and quick takes 5 minutes. Ric
 

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I just change the flued in the clutch resoiver. Pull it out with a syring or turkey bastor. I do this regularly now and have ELIMINATED my clutch problems.
That's what I was going to rec.

From everything I've read, the C5 is a very tough car to work on. Especially without a lift!

There's something to be said for the C4 in that regard..
 

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I think Powershifter's turkey baster fluid replacement routine is essential for those tracking their cars or running them fairly hard. The clutch fluid gets cooked and will trigger a sticking or sluggish clutch pedal.

If however, the clutch is already sticking or sluggish, then I do recommend bleeding the entire clutch hydraulics, and at that time switching to a higher temp fluid.

Here is a link to an eval of competing fluids:

http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/Brake_Fluid_Comparison.shtml
 

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Ranger, Changing the flued will bring it back in most cases, but might take some driveing and a couple of changes. Save a couple of bucks and more importantly a trip to the shop that may be inconvenient befour going to the trouble. Ric
 

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Ric,

Once my clutch pedal began sticking after passing through the traps, I changed the fluid in the reservoir about ten times over the next month but was unable to bring the pedal back to normal.

The full bleed did fix the problem. I'm still doing the reservoir change after each track session and using DOT-4+ fluid.

Others may get different results.

Ranger
 

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Ranger, That's why I wrote most cases. I haven't tryed dot 4 yet. I use dot 3 and wonce in a wial use clutch flued as per c4c5 specialists warning of clutch squeek. So far no problem with squek tho. Ric
 

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Will it hurt????

To use the Dot 4 class fluid, and mix the factory with the really HI Po stuff??????.......
Seems like a ok deal to me..........:-?
 

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Ranger - you don't have to drop the passenger side exhaust, and you don't have to take the cover off below the torque tube (bunch of screws). You won't have to remove the drivers side exhaust either, if there are some seriously tiny hands - but more than likely it will have to come off. Without a header or pipe there, that bleeder valve was actually a piece of cake to get to when compared to the fbody...sweeeet! :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ranger said:
Ric,

Once my clutch pedal began sticking after passing through the traps, I changed the fluid in the reservoir about ten times over the next month but was unable to bring the pedal back to normal.

The full bleed did fix the problem. I'm still doing the reservoir change after each track session and using DOT-4+ fluid.

Others may get different results.

Ranger
Ranger,

You confuse me here Bro. You bleed the system out with the ATE Super Blue racing fluid and you do the reservoir change using DOT-4+ fluid.....:-? Is this the DOT-4 from ATE Super blue?

I bought some Valvoline High performance synpower fluid, according to you fluid comparison site, it's not to bad. Where can I get some of these ATE super blue?

I thought of doing what PowerShifter recommended, but afraid that the old fluid in the line will still be there; and don't know how much of the old fluid does the lines hold. But, it's not a bad thing to try. If that doesn't correct the problem, then I'll try to bleed out the system.

Thanks guys...:cool:
 

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ddle said:
Ranger,

You confuse me here Bro. You bleed the system out with the ATE Super Blue racing fluid and you do the reservoir change using DOT-4+ fluid.....:-? Is this the DOT-4 from ATE Super blue?

I bought some Valvoline High performance synpower fluid...
I had mine bled with ATE Super Blue Racing. Now a couple days after I track the car, I do the preventive maintenance routine that PowerShifter recommends. Still using the Super Blue. I figure this will keep the fluid pretty fresh.

I've heard good things about the Valvoline HP synpower fluid.

Ranger
 

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Motul 600?

If you look at the wet and dry boiling point tables, the Motul 600 fluid has a higher dry BP and a *much* higher wet BP than the ATE. (See the above link for the data, the same as on the DRM site.) The only thing much better is the Castrol fluid, but that is outrageously expensive. I'm changing to Motul for the breaks, and would consider it for the clutch too.
 

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Re: Motul 600?

JimGreen said:
If you look at the wet and dry boiling point tables, the Motul 600 fluid has a higher dry BP and a *much* higher wet BP than the ATE. (See the above link for the data, the same as on the DRM site.) The only thing much better is the Castrol fluid, but that is outrageously expensive. I'm changing to Motul for the breaks, and would consider it for the clutch too.
Along with its superior performance specs compared to the stock fluid, I had easy access to the ATE. So instead of pursuing something even better, availability was the driver for me. In assessing the relative cost of fluid to use in the clutch, keep in mind that the hydraulics hold around a pint. So unless you're doing it yourself, most of the cost of a clutch bleed is labor.

Ranger
 

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CLUTCH BLEED!!!!

Hi Guys,

How many miles are on your car that makes this a necessary procedure?

I had a Z28, which was driven hard (30,000 miles)
sold the car never bled the fluid...? My Z only has 500 miles, not too worried yet.

Thanks
Mike
 
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