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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Difficulties/lessons learned with clutch replacement on the Z06.
This is a supplement to the online instructions how to do this.

Do not try to do this from jack stands your cussing vocabulary will increase tremendously if you try. Do it on a lift preferably a two post lift.

It helps a lot if you have air tools to assist with the job. Just the bolts on the torque tube tunnel shield would be reason enough.

Remember to disconnect the air tube coming from your air filter so it does not get damaged when the engine moves.

On top of the torque tube is a rectangular shaped plastic conduit through which a major wiring harness passes. Be sure to slide this out from under the retaining tangs before pulling back on the torque tube/tranny/ differential assembly.

Disconnect the variable speed sensor on top of the differential before dropping the torque tube/tranny/ differential assembly. Detach any other weather pack plugs before moving the back end
and uncouple the large wire bundle from the back of the differential.

I chose to leave the upper A-arm and subassemblies attached to the car instead of dropping with the differential. Disconnect the tie rod. Then you will be able to rotate the brake disc assembly which will give you clearance to take off the 18mm nut from the lower ball joint. You will need a ball joint splitter tool and a small sledge hammer. The first time will be very difficult if it has not been undone since original manufacture. This will permit the upper A-arm to rotate up out of the way and let the brake lines stay connected. You save a lot of time and effort in not having to bleed the brake lines. Doing it this way will permit you to pull the floating coupler out of the differential. The splined coupler comes out with just a strong yank from the spline shaft. There is no c-clip or anything between the differential and the rubber booted u-joint.

If you have long tube headers with collectors past the bell housing you will have to remove the exhaust system underneath and disconnect the headers from the block to get enough clearance to work. Remove the plug wires and plugs so you do not work against compression. Moving the coil pack racks helps also. It would be a good idea to have new/spare head gaskets for the headers, you might damage the ones you have to they may just need replacing.

When you slide the spline away from the bell housing measure the angle on the torque tube. This will make it easier to get it lined up correctly when you mate the two on reassembly.

Buy a 18mm wrench and socket. This is an odd size and is not included in standard wrench/socket collections.
Buy the special tool to let you rotate the flywheel easily. You will end up rotating the flywheel around several times when you torque down the clutch pressure plate. Make sure your clutch alignment tool has fine splines not broad ones. My supplier sent me the wrong on even though I ordered it at the same time as the clutch and pressure plate.

When you reattach the torque tube to the bell housing and align the spline shaft be sure to check the wiring harness cable bundle that will be above the torque tube/slave cylinder front. It will tend to drop down and get in the area between the bell housing and torque tube. It may get damged if you try to slam the drive drain into it when you get the spline lined up.


While it is removed it is a good time to replace the transmission fluid and differential fluid. It will cost around $100 for all the fluids. Do not forget to go the chevy and get a little bottle of friction modifier (Limited Slip Axle Lubricant GM part# 1052358)to add to the differential oil. Keep the drive line level otherwise fluid will leak out of the spline shafts where the floating
half shafts go into.

Unplug the wires from the O2 sensor’s weather pack connectors before removing the sensor’s.

I bought the LAPD remote bleeder line. It is a good idea but flawed in implementation. Due to its shape and the curvature of the fixed tube it was damaged when I reassembled the drive train. It was not known until everything was hooked up and the clutch was pumped and the leak in the stainless steel line revealed. There is not enough spare line to reconnect the line from the master to the slave cylinder (in the torque tube) without reassembly of the drive line. This problem doubled the time required for the job since the whole rear portion of the drive line must be dropped again so you can get access to the drain line which is at the 2 o’clock position on the slave cylinder in the torque. I had to scramble to get the parts to manufacture my own drain line assembly. This was very late at night after all the stores had closed of course.

Re-torque your header bolts after you have driven the car.

I will post some selected pictures from the effort.
 

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Excellent tips!

Looking forward to pics as I will be doing this in the spring.

:pop:
 

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Ed - Does not sound like you had fun. You gave some good tips. Most people do work like this by following the directions but encouter problems along they way never write about. Like always, ya got er done:thumb:
 

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Glad to here you DIYed. I remember your getting ready posts.

We did ours with the control arms, etc, left on the subframe, but I guess both ways work.

We also did it on jackstands, the manly way;)

Did you use an LS7 setup? Hardest part for us, was squeezing the clutch assy in between the flywheel and bellhousing.
 

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Ughhh...doesn't sound like fun. I was going to do mine on jacks but now you have me thinking.

What's amazing, Tom did this in the parking lot of the NCM with basic hand tools and floor jacks. :eek:

Thanks for the tips and looking forward to your pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
99cobra said:
Glad to here you DIYed. I remember your getting ready posts.

We did ours with the control arms, etc, left on the subframe, but I guess both ways work.

We also did it on jackstands, the manly way;)

Did you use an LS7 setup? Hardest part for us, was squeezing the clutch assy in between the flywheel and bellhousing.
I used a Centerforce clutch (increases pressure with rpm) and a Fidanza aluminum flywheel. There was no problem getting the pressure plate assembly through the bell housing access plate. Holding the weight of the assembly while trying to line it up to get bolts started was the hard part(use new ARP bolts for this, part number ARP-134-2201 ).

This is what must be moved back to retrack the drive line spline from the clutch. It is stilling on stands here.
You really want to keep this up on a transmission dolly/jack, it is very unwieldy.


The end of the tube slides into the center of the clutch at a slight angle.


This is the clutch

notice the weights on the fingers, this increases the pressure as the pressure plate spins faster. They are free moving and not fixed in place.

Text description from Centerforce:
The Centerforce Dual-Friction clutch set is a performance matched pressure plate & disc combination. Centerforce Dual-Friction pressure plates feature their patented centrifugal weight system (where applicable) and specialized machining processes to provide a performance clutch that offers exceptional street characteristics, while offering outstanding holding-capacity and durability. Furthermore, the Centerforce Dual-Friction disc has a full facing on the pressure plate side for drivability and longevity, while a carbon composite puc style (segmented) facing is used on the flywheel side for a positive engagement and increased holding-capacity. Dual Friction is engineered for those who are looking for the ultimate in street/strip holding power and performance without sacrificing pedal effort and driver control. While the Dual Friction has been engineered primarily as a street clutch it can be used in mild competition applications.

Fidanza aluminum flywheel



OEM slave cylinder


With lower part you punch out the retaining pin and transfer the line from your old slave cylinder and replace the retaining pin. As you face the slave clyiunder end of the torque tube the upper tube(bleeder tube) in the picture is sticking out of the cutout in the torque tube at about the two o'clock position. So it is on top near the tunnel shield. It is very difficult to get a mans hand into the area with a wrench to turn the bleeder tube to drain the system. That is why you use the disassembly opportunity to put in a extended bleeder tube. However the LAPD implementation it flawed in execution.

Centerforce throwout bearing, replaces the oem one on the end of the slave cylinder, it is not absolutely necessary however it is much higher quality than oem.



This is one type of flywheel turning tool.


Clutch alignment tool (the picture makes it look larger than it is)
 

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Good stuff Ed!!
Like GolfFox was saying, following directions is fine but there are always little tripping hazzards along the way.
You pointed out several for the next guy to take notice of!!
Nice job!!
 

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Sounds like fun Ed (NOT!). I assume you did the work at Ed's house on his lift. Did your clutch just give it up, or are you preparing it for more HP?
I seem to remember you were considering FI
 

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Discussion Starter #11
2MchFun said:
Sounds like fun Ed (NOT!). I assume you did the work at Ed's house on his lift. Did your clutch just give it up, or are you preparing it for more HP?
I seem to remember you were considering FI
Yes at Ed Hatton's. I have over 80k miles with many of them track miles (strip/road course). I wanted to change it at my convienience not after it fails and I have to get towed :eek:
Yes I will be adding more power in the future but not yet. I did not have alot of time left on the clutch after I checked it out but it has lasted a long time in daily service.
I am still in break in mode on the new one but it feels real solid.
 

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I guess you didn't want to "pull a Tom" and replace your clutch in the Pentagon parking lot :D
Keep us posted on how you like the Centerforce once you get it broken in.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Sabot said:
Panser. just curious. Of all the clutches why the Centerforce?

Sabot
My best friend is a retired master mechanic who has built and run pro stock cars around the mid Atlantic for 40+ years. He currently drives a 1200hp 1150/ft/lbs Viper. He has never had problems with Centerforce clutches on numerous types of cars. The unique feature of the sliding weights that increases clamping pressure when you want it most is great. Besides everyone uses spec/trextralia type clutches around here. You can't have an advantage if you do what everyone else does. At one time no one was doing textralia clutches.

The tube on the LAPD line does not have enough bend on it and the crimped connector is too vulnerable to damage during reinstall as far as I am concerned. When you are sliding the whole drivetrain assembly forward on a tranny jack and trying to align the splines you do not have precise control of the whole business due to its weight and unwieldiness. $95 is alot of money for a short braided line.
 

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Great job on the clutch install panzer. I've installed a center force clutch on my old honda crx and love the clutch. Did you get the clutch and flywheel zero balanced?
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Brandon619 said:
Great job on the clutch install panzer. I've installed a center force clutch on my old honda crx and love the clutch. Did you get the clutch and flywheel zero balanced?
No the pressure plate and dual type clutch plate come together and are already balanced by Centerforce. The Flywheel is already balanced by Fidanza since it has a steel insert to the aluminum so they balance it before shipping.
 

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Hi

I was thinking about doing this my self. With a lift how long do you think it would take?

I was thinking of using the Hobby Shop at FT. Belvior. So I think it has to be finished in a day.

Thanks
Bud
 
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