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Ed,
Thanks for the useful info on the clutch install! I am about a week away from doing mine. (just waiting on the parts to get here) I went with a Textralia 0Z700 with the roselok lightened steel flywheel. Was going to order the LAPD remote bleeder until I saw your post. I'm thinking that I will attempt to make my own bleeder line now. Thanks again for the write-up! :cheers:

Jimbo
 

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Discussion Starter #22
dbhajek said:
Hi

I was thinking about doing this my self. With a lift how long do you think it would take?

I was thinking of using the Hobby Shop at FT. Belvior. So I think it has to be finished in a day.

Thanks
Bud
Do you have stock exhaust? Are you doing this yourself? Do you have all the tools/special tools needed?
 

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Have LG Headers. Not looking foward to unbolting them.

I am new to the area so I was thinking of doing this my self and hoping I can get help from the hobby guys when I need it.

I do not have any tools yet but will get them before the attempt.

Thanks
Bud

panzer said:
Do you have stock exhaust? Are you doing this yourself? Do you have all the tools/special tools needed?
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
I have undone my LG headers about 4 times now and yes it is not fun. This is the base set of instructions I used for this job and to which I have added some lessons learned http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_0506_exedy_twin_disc_clutch_install/ . I will SWAG a negotiable cost of about $500 on top of the normal cost of clutch replacement for the mechanic to deal with the additional work of the long tub headers.

I printed out the instructions in and the larger images in color when I needed to see closeups. I put them in document protectors and made a special binder to hold all the key elements prior to the job. It really helped.

I think you need to get another friend to do this as a minimum. When you put the drive train back in you will need someone on the back end pushing/elevating the tranny jack/wiggling the assembly while you are in the front eyeballing the spline and moving it a little to guide it in. If you have no prior experience dealing with this stuff I would plan a minimum of 12 hours effort with the expectation that it will take longer especially if you break something.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Additional tip/issue I just remembered.

Around the rear ladder assembly where the brake lines go around the differential are little plastic connectors. They are intended to hold the solid brake lines in position so they do not move/rattle and wear holes in them. The little plastic connectors are made for the ease of assembly at the corvette plant. They have slots which hold the lines and have a little ribbed protrusion which is pressed into holes around the ladder assembly. It is very difficult to get them out since them are designed to be pushed in once and only once. I tried to be careful getting them out but were damaged anyway due to their design. So either buy some new ones in advance or do my backup solution. I had a selection of nylon wire ties. I got one of the appropriate size inserted it from the opposite side of the aluminum ladder, wrapped it around the tube and stuck it back through. I cinched it up and the little block holds it in place and keeps the line from moving around. Not pretty but it worked.

Somehow the weather pack connector that plugs into the VSS variable speed sensor plug on the top of the differential has damage to the wires. I was able to splice in new wires but it was like doing orthoscopic surgery. Be careful with those darn things.
 

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Wow, have done clutches before but never on a C5. 12 hours is more then I want to handle.

On a side note, speaking about friends, is there ever any get together with some local Vette/sport cars?

Thanks
Bud
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Well some of the locals go to the Manassas weekly car show http://www.z06vette.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35231 however it is now too cold.
I know that the Corvette club that MSISKA (Mike Siska) belongs to is sponsored by Criswell Chevrolet in Gaithersburg, MD. There is the Northern Virginia Corvette Club that is sponsored by Koons Chevrolet in Tysons Corner.

I heard from another person that there is a guy at his workplace that tracks his car alot. He has done the clutch job several times and it takes him seven hours. I can't do it that fast.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I have kept that thread alive in the Mid-Atlantic events section for several years. I look forward to seeing you there next spring. :z:
 

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jub jub said:
Ughhh...doesn't sound like fun. I was going to do mine on jacks but now you have me thinking.

What's amazing, Tom did this in the parking lot of the NCM with basic hand tools and floor jacks. :eek:

Thanks for the tips and looking forward to your pics.

I was thinking the same thing..but FRC Tom is a major wrench turner too..not many would be able to pull that mechanical feat off as he did..:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
Some of the promised pics:
21





























This was a surprise. Where the finger is pointing is where a metal tang had broken off it had embedded itself into the metal of the lower bell housing cover. So the clutch assembly was unbalanced (never felt it) which is not good. I am glad I changed the clutch when I wanted instead of when it became inoperative.





This is the side that faces the flywheel


This faces the Centerforce pressure plate





You can see one of the metal fingers that hold the plastic conduit. The braided line is the aftermarket bleed line that did not work out.



A very tired panzer
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
This is the little metal tang that broke off the pressure plate at some unknown time in the past.











The braided line is the LAPD aftermarket line. You can see where the oem bleeder would stick out. Image getting your man sized hands in there with a standard sized wrench. I think you might have to cut a wrench in half to fit in that tunnel space. :eek:

The bottom line is oem braided line to connects to the clutch master cylinder. The upper brass line is the one we manufactured when the LAPD line broke during installation.


That brass fitting to the left of the slave cylinder is the OEM means of bleeding your clutch line. It goes on the left fitting .



Looking into the Random Tech metal matrix high flow cats.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Your welcome, I hope it saves you some grief. :z:
 

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Discussion Starter #38
jub jub said:
Hey Ed, why don't you sticky this in "Tech Tips"!
Good idea but I will leave it here for awhile till it becomes old news/just reference material.
 

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I was not aware that any aftermarket TO bearings were available. Is the Centerforce bearing the same dimensionally as the stocker? How did the Centerforce feel in comparison?

BTW that first pic of the slave cylinder had the cuick connect located right near the slave. This must be an earlier design. Later Z06 slave have a braided line running from the slave to the quick connect.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
marlowchris said:
I was not aware that any aftermarket TO bearings were available. Is the Centerforce bearing the same dimensionally as the stocker? How did the Centerforce feel in comparison?

BTW that first pic of the slave cylinder had the cuick connect located right near the slave. This must be an earlier design. Later Z06 slave have a braided line running from the slave to the quick connect.
Yes it is the same size. As to how it felt, the rest of the slave cylinder is the GM part so the spring and other parts are the same. It feels about the same in operation when you depress the pedal.


The slave comes that way out of the box. The instructions are to transfer the original braided line and connector from the original slave which I did. It is held in position by a compression drift pin. This pictures shows that. The lower braided line is the original. The throwout bearing there is the Centerforce.

 
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