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Ahhh bro, I know the feeling all too well!!
See how things go and let me know.
 

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Ed: I'm not sure this is the right thread to discuss my tranny issue but here goes. Replaced the clutch last year (it failed in the middle of the busiest intersection in Southern MD-long funny story-not funny at the time!); had it towed to the dealer. They have a tech there I trust and paid the big bucks to get-er-dun.

In the last 4 months the syncro's going into 1st are failing. Specifically, the transmission will not allow you to downshift into 1st w/o grinding if the car is moving. If you wait until you are at a full stop, then move in into 1st, it's fine. Upshifting from 1st to 2nd or if the CAGs takes over to 4th, no problem.

Questions:
1) is there any connection between having the clutch replaced and tranny problems-obviously if there is I want to lean on the dealer to make it right.
2) is the throw out bearing involved; I seem to recall they replaced that saying that as long as they had the entire drive train disassembled, it made sense to do that.
3) bottom line question: a simple matter of component adjustment or am I looking at a tranny rebuild-I hope not. I've treated the car right over the years; got 72K miles on the odo and I want to keep it until I'm too old to drive.

Thanks to all for any advice,

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #63 (Edited)
Questions:

1) is there any connection between having the clutch replaced and tranny
problems-obviously if there is I want to lean on the dealer to make it right.

Funny you should come up with this question as I am in the process of replacing my
flywheel on my Z06 at this time. To get to the clutch you have to move the drive
train from the bell house back to get the spline out. To do that you have to detach
the transaxle from the ladder assembly, lower it a little so you can pull the whole
torque tube and transaxle out with a transmission jack.

Otherwise if you just need to remove and fix the transaxle, it can probably be
detached from the back end of the torque tube so it can be repaired.


2) is the throw out bearing involved; I seem to recall they replaced that saying
that as long as they had the entire drive train disassembled, it made sense to do
that.

The throw out bearing is what pushes on the pressure plate to move the friction
plate away from the flywheel to disengage it. That was a good idea to replace for
the reason they stated.



3) bottom line question: a simple matter of component adjustment or am I looking at
a tranny rebuild-I hope not. I've treated the car right over the years; got 72K
miles on the odo and I want to keep it until I'm too old to drive.

Since the throw out bearing seems to work in the other gears it does not seem likely
that is the problem. Also since it works in other gears it means that the
clutch is moving in and out. So what is left is something inside the transmission
maybe shift folks. Second possibility but less likely would be the linkage between
the gear shift and the transmission.
 

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Thanks Ed; it's at the minor irritation level of malfunction right now. Would you have it looked at and fixed (I'm not as skilled a wrench turner as you) or just live with until a good time arises.

We are continuing the renovation process of our house in Solomons (old waterfront vacation house-20 year rebuild project) and I'd like to complete it before I retire and not go into retirement with any 2nd mtg or debt.

TX, Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #65
You need to get it fixed it will only get more expensive the more you use a flaky transmission as it is a very complex piece of engineering. You do not want to be stranded again. If you drive in this current mode you will think/worry every time you drive it " is it going to make to to my destination ?". The brakes are the most important thing on a car, after that the engine and tranny otherwise you don't have a car. It needs to get resolved, sorry.
 

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Glad to here you DIYed. I remember your getting ready posts.

We did ours with the control arms, etc, left on the subframe, but I guess both ways work.

We also did it on jackstands, the manly way;)

Did you use an LS7 setup? Hardest part for us, was squeezing the clutch assy in between the flywheel and bellhousing.
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Hello all, I've got a five speed civic dx and shifting is getting kind of rough, the gears are not grinding, just not smooth anymore, its got 150k miles. I recently got a third opinion and they told nee my clutch its starting to go. Any ideas for total replacement costs?
 

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Hello all, I've got a five speed civic dx and shifting is getting kind of rough, the gears are not grinding, just not smooth anymore, its got 150k miles. I recently got a third opinion and they told nee my clutch its starting to go. Any ideas for total replacement costs?
Are you for real???? This is a Z06 Corvette site .....go to your rice burning place (Honda).
 

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have a 1999 TJ with a 4.0 and the AX15 transmission. The fellow jeeper that sent me the pic with it installed, suggests that if its part of original equipment he might go ahead and install it, but he suggests that it might be something that's in there to aid in assembly rather than doing anything real. I found mine on the garage floor after I had my tranny remated, and I just happened to come across that in the FSM. I thought that after I got my clutch fork and throwout bearing installed into the bell housing that the clutch fork was a little loosey goosey on that plastic ball that it rests on. Even after I mated my tranny together and got 7 of the 9 bell housing bolts lightly tightened to snug, that the clutch fork seemed a little loose on that end. For example, I can push my finger through the slave cylinder hole and push against the clutch fork where the slave cylinder plunger would touch and it seems kind of snug and right and resting on that ball, but, when I pull it back a bit with my finger it seems a little loose on the ball end again. Do you suppose when I install the slave cylinder, it will always be putting some pressure on clutch fork, rendering that little spring on the other aside unnecesary? I only have a few bolts on my tranny now and I have ordered 2 of those thingies from the dealer ($3 apeice), so I could install it, but of course, I would have to unseat and then remate the tranny, and because it's my first time doing this and I do not want to have to take all that crap apart once I get everything back together. I'm interested in your opinions and how it worked out for your install.

Also, do you have an idea on what the torque settings are on the bell housing bolts? They are all different so I thought that they might have different toque settings for each type of bolt.
Thanks so much for your help and write-up its great!!
-kaybone
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