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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have discovered as I have gone to change my fronts that the shop that did some work last time must have impact wretched the living :cen: out of them. Can't break the caliper bolts loose with out impact gun.

Would like to run a few more laps and crack is to the edge and near to the bottom on one side of one rotor.

I know common sense tells me hell no but was curious as I don't know what would happen???

Yes smart a$$ remarks welcome as I may deserve it.
 

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If you heat it up under hard braking, and it lets go, you'll be replacing more than a cheap rotor! :bang: :cheers:
 

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speedpup said:
How is your life insurance policy? :cry:
Well, if your wife is good looking, then don't replace them.

In all seriousness, REPLACE THEM!!!!! It's not worth the risk, no matter what. We don't want to be saying a couple of days from now how great of a guy you were and so on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You mean you would actually say that..
:ity:

I am getting all misty.

Motivating and getting a cordless impact gun somewhere this morning. Damn pain in the butt though.
 

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Silver Bullet said:
You mean you would actually say that..
:ity:

I am getting all misty.

Motivating and getting a cordless impact gun somewhere this morning. Damn pain in the butt though.
You do need a new rotor. You don't need an impact gun. You need a $4.75 piece of pipe to slip over your wrench and provide more mechanical leverage to break the caliper bracket bolts loose. They should only be torqued to 125 lb/ft...
 

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Silver Bullet said:
I have discovered as I have gone to change my fronts that the shop that did some work last time must have impact wretched the living :cen: out of them. Can't break the caliper bolts loose with out impact gun.
I strongly advise you to replace them.

As mentioned above, I don't think you need an impact wrench. I have never used one.

The trick is to turn the front wheel so the disk isn't parallel with the car, but one side points out nicely so you can put a breaker bar on the socket and put some body weight into it. I only have a normal long 1/2" drive Craftsman wrench and this has always been long enough for me and I'm a little guy.

Good luck.
 

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You have got to be kidding about running a cracked rotor!!!!!! :eek2:

Did you just find out you have a terminal illness and won't live another week anyway?



Raybestos rotor $21

Body work after rotor explodes $3,000

Ride in life support helicopter to hospital $15,000

Bringing car home in one piece....priceless.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Discovered why I couldn't get the nut off. Last shop to work on it used locktite and an impact gun to the max.


So bolted in on and ran today. Although what happens when done with last session of day. Brand new front rotor cracks.

:flaming:

Not my lucky rotor weekend I guess.
 

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I would not, if your lucky all you will do is destroy your pads. I autoX'd with lots of cracks, on my second run one of those long crack to the edge went straight through cousing the other side to also crack through. I could feel a thumping sound on the way home. When I replaced my rotor it had completely destroyed both pads.

I would never take any kind of risk with faulty, worn or improperly installed or serviced parts.
 

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Had a perfectly good rotor go bad at Road America going thru the kink. It blew and cut the entire right front suspension off the car. Horrible way to end a weekend. If you see the cracks going close the edge .....change the rotor.

Tony #54
 

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Silver Bullet said:
Discovered why I couldn't get the nut off. Last shop to work on it used locktite and an impact gun to the max.


So bolted in on and ran today. Although what happens when done with last session of day. Brand new front rotor cracks.

:flaming:

Not my lucky rotor weekend I guess.

Sorry to hear you run through the rotor so quickly. I had the same problem a few weekends ago at CMP, where my right front cracked all the way through - after only 6 runs!!!!
This was with Wilwood H pads that I just installed. I did not have any rotor cracking problems with Cobalt Spec VR pads.

DRM brake ducts, stainless steel pistons and stainless brake lines going on this week before VIR 6/18-19... I'm hoping the brake ducting will help increase rotor life.
 

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For what it's worth, I have read that excessive cooling can cause rotors to crack and that it is safer to run them hot than cold. Therefore at longer tracks like Road America, you will need to cover or partially cover the brake ducts.
 

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I'm a little late on this one, but don't forget the video camera if you do run. And you must begin with a good burnout while yelling "Hey Ya'll, watch this!" :D

Make sure someone can post the video here for us after the fact!
:z:

chris
 

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bufman23 said:
For what it's worth, I have read that excessive cooling can cause rotors to crack and that it is safer to run them hot than cold. Therefore at longer tracks like Road America, you will need to cover or partially cover the brake ducts.
I disagree - at RA stock ducts are not enough and you will experience brake fade. I will try with new ducts in the fall to be sure, for now the ducts seem to have made a difference based on brakes performance on different tracks.

For example at RA I noticed accelerated pad wear and rotor grooving due to extra heat. Also like I said my car had some brake fade. At Putnam and at Grattan car ran flawlessly, even rotor wear, pads still look ok and rotors might be good for another day at the track although I might replace them just in case.
 

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I agree with Mafia on that one (somehow that just doesn't sound right... :D )

I don't think we get enough air in the ducts, even with the DRM extensions and Phoenix spindle ducts to make enough difference in cracking. Most of my spider cracks are worse on the outside which is the hot side of the rotor.

I think rapid cooling after the track session causes the cracks to grow rapidly. I'm pretty sure my worst crack grew rapidly to failure while the car was sitting in the paddock on a cold day (about 45 or so). :cheers:
 

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Considering you're stopping a 3400 lb car from ungodly speeds over and over again with undersized rotors, calipers and pads, there isn't enough ducting on the planet to get them cool enough!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Got rotor off.
:yeadog:

Never under estimate how dumb a well educated person could be. With suggestion here I turned wheel to full lock to get at it so could get full weight on bar and with big breaker bar was able to bust it lose.

Rotor cracking has become an issue since doing solo1 and time trials more than ever.
You go out cold run hard as hell after 1/2 lap warm up and then pull right back in for cool down.
Thermal shock in a major way.
 
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