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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Does anyboy know if you can jack up the Z on one side, near the center so that both front and rear wheels lift at the same time.
Looking to save time changing wheels, brakes, etc...
Saw a guy do it to his M3 at the track..

:usa:
 

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If you jack at either jacking location the chassis is stiff enough that both wheels will come off the ground. ;)
 

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If you have a floor jack with enough lift, the front jacking point, aft of the wheel, will raise the rear wheel off the ground.

Charlie
 

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terry schulze said:
If you jack at either jacking location the chassis is stiff enough that both wheels will come off the ground. ;)
Yep, did exactly this yesterday changing OIL. Still took me over 2hrs to change the damn oil again. Car is damn too LOW!!!!. Anyway while i was at it i also too the time to install the CAGS. Now i am in control of the gears :)
 

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cenwesi said:
Yep, did exactly this yesterday changing OIL. Still took me over 2hrs to change the damn oil again. Car is damn too LOW!!!!. Anyway while i was at it i also too the time to install the CAGS. Now i am in control of the gears :)
I drive the car up on a small stack of staggered 2x8s. It makes it so much easier to get the jack under the car. ;)
 

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cenwesi said:
Yep, did exactly this yesterday changing OIL. Still took me over 2hrs to change the damn oil again. Car is damn too LOW!!!!. Anyway while i was at it i also too the time to install the CAGS. Now i am in control of the gears :)
If your lowered to the maximum limit on the stock bolts and you don't have any cut bushings or anything, you can pull the car up on a set of Rhino Ramps without any trouble at all. It's a pretty snug fit, but I've never damaged my front or scuffed the paint or anything with them. Makes for an easy oil change. :cheers:
 

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NETfiend said:
If your lowered to the maximum limit on the stock bolts and you don't have any cut bushings or anything, you can pull the car up on a set of Rhino Ramps without any trouble at all. It's a pretty snug fit, but I've never damaged my front or scuffed the paint or anything with them. Makes for an easy oil change. :cheers:
If you want to get as much of the old oil out as you can, you need to get the car at least level and preferably have the back a little higher than the front. ;)
 

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Get some frame savers, you can then jack your car from the sides.
 

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VAI said:
Does anyboy know if you can jack up the Z on one side, near the center so that both front and rear wheels lift at the same time.
Looking to save time changing wheels, brakes, etc...
Saw a guy do it to his M3 at the track..

:usa:
Many guys who race the Z06 do just this. But, be careful of a couple things.
- There is a spot midway between the wheels where you can get a jack, but you have to check the position of the jack carefully or you will jack under the fiberglass lip and break it.
- You will need a low profile jack.
- I strongly suggest putting jack stands under the two side jacking points (where the holes are in the frame behind the front wheel and in front of the rear wheel) before you start sticking body parts under the car

Personally I don't do it this way very often. I use two jacks as follows:
- One under side front jacking point and give it a few pumps
- Second under the nose to the front cross member with a block of wood spreading out the load and raise the front
- put two jack stands under the sides of the front cross member (if your wood block is the right size they can go under it as well - 2x6 works well for me about two feet wide). I leave the jack there as a third support.
- Roll the side jack to the back and jack the rear using the rear cross member
- Put two jack stands under rear cross member. I leave the jack in back as well.

Change all four tires.

Lowering car is opposite of putting it up. Takes me less than a minute to the car up on all four jack stands. :cheers:
 

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terry schulze said:
If you jack at either jacking location the chassis is stiff enough that both wheels will come off the ground. ;)

That's how we "Tech" the cars before Auto-cross. But we only have it up in the air for a short time - mostly checking for wheel bearing "play".

I wouldn't do a break job that way - I'd use jack stands for any kind of repair or detailed inspection. Better to be safe than sorry!
 

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What Sub-Driver said ^^^^about middle jacking point...
Other threads on same or related subject.
Get or make "hocky puck" jacking pucks ... better to have a "T" pin (I found some drawer pulls and ground them to work) to insert at the jacking points to hang at the ready; get one or two more pucks (without pins) or use a hard rubber sanding block as a pad) to put on your low lift jack (or roll your car up on 2x10's or so)
If you don't have frame savers ...roll your jack under and, with a puck or two on the pad, line it up on the "Y" plate between the jacking points, as close as you can to the SMC rocker panel, with the pucks against the frame rail.
Chock the opposite side wheel, pump and put jack stands with pucks under the jacking points.
Go to other side and repeat.
HTH ...
 

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terry schulze said:
If you want to get as much of the old oil out as you can, you need to get the car at least level and preferably have the back a little higher than the front. ;)
Yeah, I usually jack up the rear from the center after it's on the ramps when I'm doing an oil change. If you don't jack up the back, the engine will hold a LOT of the old oil (and probably make one heck of a mess while your draining it).
 

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The front jack point is close enough to center to be good enough. The car will easily lift both ends from this point. I do it all the time. Time saver when changing wheels, you only need to lift the car twice.
 
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