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Discussion Starter #1
First off my experience with Diamond Chevy in Charlotte was great. Loaner car, good service etc.. so recommend to anyone in area.

Only problem was the alignment specs I provided they said they could only get 1.1 degree in front at everything to the max.
My car is lowered but if anything I thought that might help.
They said the past several new vette's they have had in could only get 1.1 to 1.3 negative camber max.

Is it me or does that not sound correct.

They also booked in to much toe out at 1/4 total when I only wanted 1/8.

Rear they could get 1.1 negative.

Any thoughts or help from anyone on what I am missing.

I wanted 1.3 at a minimum but really wanted 1.5
 

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What are set-up are you going for? My car is max lowered and I just had it re-aligned Saturday to the following specs:

Front

-1.1 Camber (matched side to side) actual
8.6 Caster (matched side to side) actual
0.01 Toe out actual

Rear

-0.7 Camber (matched side to side) actual
0.01 Toe in actual


This was done at a Chevy dealership.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What I waned and what I got was a little different in camber and toe but here is what I ended with.

Camber (each side)
Front -1.1
Rear -1.1

Caster
7.6 and 8.1

Toe
Front -.28 total toe out ( alittle more then I wanted)
Rear .16 toe in

I was shooting for -1.5 camber in front and a total of -.12 toe out in the front.

Caster was awful high to me but usually shoot for max after camber is set.
 

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Does your car pull to the right? I usually match the caster at the expense of some camber.

My guy could only get 1.3 max front camber, bushings might be a little worn???
 

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Your Dealer sacrificed Camber for Caster.

Back the Caster off to around 5.0, then dial in the negative camber you need. Then reset the caster to the maximum positive you can get without sacrificing the Negative Camber.

For AutoX I have -2.4 camber
For Track I use -1.8 camber
And -1.5 for camber for street.

Caster varies between 4.5 and 6 with these settings.
Note I do not use a right lead Caster for the road crown but set the sides equal for the track
 

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I've said this before several times on several different posts, but if you've lowered your car all the way and still have pretty much stock suspension components, you've really screwed up your handling and it doesn't make a whole lot of difference what your camber numbers are...the car just simply will not handle properly.

Put the car back to the stock ride height and then adjust as DJ said. If you still can't get enough camber, try the T1 camber plates on the front. That will kick the lower control arm out and you should be able to get -2.5 to -3...if you want that much. If you want something in between, check out Hardbar.net. They have varying degrees of camber plates which are really handy.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Only lowered 10mm so not much and have the penskes so I assume that isn't causing the issue.
Do you think it would be?
 

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It's very, very hard to say. I do know that with the full T1 kit and the SACHs shocks, and the springs lowered as far as they would go was a detriment of nearly 2 seconds per lap. The tires and wheels got me another full second.

The vettes are very sensitive to suspension settings...especially lowering and toe. You not only change ride height, suspension geometry and shock travel, but you also alter the rake of the car. Take it to Phoenix or other pro shop and have them set it up right. You'll be amazed at how much better the car is.

Oh another problem could be just bogus numbers on the alignment machine. They have been known to differ between machines...quite a bit sometimes!! Calibration????
 
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