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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I keep getting a 225 coolant level.

now its pushing 240's and up to 253 degrees?

WTF?

Even on the highway once I've driven around town and the temps climb to 240 or even 253 degrees.....the highway temps don't drop....below 210 degrees coolant...

I had the waterpump changed...I had the stock thermostat changed and back in a new one...

I threw on new belts...

The coolant looks good...the flow through the radiator is 15lbs per minute or something like that!

I'm not loosing coolant either to any degree although I am smelling something sweet in the garage....Smells like coolant..I think..

Granted its 100 degrees out side...but I'm not driving hard and the temps are climbing to levels not seen before..

Had it supposedly pressure tested a few weeks ago and they said all was fine but found one side of the thermostat housing was normal temps and the other side was ,much hotter indictating a bad thermostat...but now even with a new thermostat /water pump/ belts and 50 : 50 mix of dexcool..the cars still running hot...

Is this normal? What a pain in the ass..

I just have no patience for this stuff.

Its 100 degrees outside so maybe thats why?

Any insight would be appreciated..
 

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Geez seems pretty normal to me, especially if you were stock. sounds like you did a couple of things to it, so maybe you're expecting something non-factory (miraculous?)

i live in miami, it's HOT down here too, regularly hit into the 240s or higher...
 

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Those temps are too high. You can have the coolant smell even if it doesn't leak. I'd guess your fan/s are not coming on, or your radiator is blocked with debris. Check fan operation first. Temps here often exceed 100F, and my car doesn't exceed 195 with the stock thermo. Funny thing, though. Before I installed headers, it ran hotter on occasion, but never over 220.
 

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Wait, to be sure, coolant or oil temp? I agree that 240++ might be a bit high for coolant, but surely not for the oil. That's what I was thinking cuz that's what's on my DIC all the time. My bad.
 

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Did you ever check to see if there was something (like a plastic bag) blocking the radiator?

Have it put on a lift and checked and have 'em blow out both sides, Also, the space between the radiator and a/c cooler, which is hard to get at, but in higher outside temps, you're probabily using the A/C.....which obviously creates a lot of heat.

This could be the problem :yeadog:

It's a bottom breather and is constantly sucking all sorts of debris up into the radiator. The C6 is a front breather, and this should help keep the radiator more free of debris, which is a big improvement.

Only other thing I can think of that you didn't mention is the temps when the low speed and high speed fans come on at. Do a test from a cold start with the dic set in the coolant temp mode. Won't take long....when the first fan comes on check the temp....ditto on the high temp fan. Fans "on temp settings" can be lowered thru the PCM. Or, you can get a Vinci fan controller and dial it in where you want it manually from your engine compartment.

Finally, you might want to flush and clean out the cooling system and put in some new coolant and soft water or tap water.....do not use distilled water.

Our cooling system is under 15 lbs pressure. At 15 lbs, according to the Dexcool bottle, the boil over point is (by memory) is like 265 degrees.

You might want to replace the radiator cap. A faulty cap that allows a lower pressure would cause the temps to rise. I doubt this is the problem, but a new cap is not that expensive. If it has no effect on temps, just return it.

Also, try a 160 degree thermostat. Or, you might want to see how temps read without a thermostat.

I drove about 50 miles one way in stop and go traffic last Friday with the A/C on and saw coolant temps reach 246. 90 degrees outside, and I turned off the A/C and boy did those temps drop, BUT, then I got hot ;).

I've got a Ron Davis radiator, and I think there is a lot of debris in front of and behind it. I'm having Joe Jill (who had an engine shop in New York form 1960 to 1990, before moving to Anaheim, CA) build me a C5R engine. Of course, we'll make sure the radiator is purged and free of debris. I have a screen on the airflow opening to the radiator, which helps keep the big stuff out.

Joe uses the Mezier electric water pump and has for the past 2 years without any problems....it's not just for drag racing. He installs Mazieres on almost all engines he builds. He discards the thermostat and uses a restrictor in it place. Also, he uses Evens coolant exclusively. It had a boil over point at over 300 degrees with no system pressure.

So JB, if the radiator hasn't been checked for debris, go to the front of your car, lay down and stick your arm up the radiator channel and see what you find :yeadog:

Good luck, and let us know when you find the problem. AND, most important, don't blow up your Z :rofl:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks guys..BUT I'm XXXeditXXXX (pissed) with this car already....

I go out for a quick ride again.....maybe 15minutes...try a quinzos sub and go to the park with the kid.let him run around ...he gives up cause of the heat and then...come home, suck down a cool one...hop back in the car and let the car idle for a few minutes...temps are now at 244 degrees coolant and I drive down the block less than a 1/2 mile and the temps keep climbing...I turn the A/c on full blast (recirculating mode) as I read that works...

Hits 260 degrees coolant and the bells and whistles go off...Turn around ...come home..pull the codes..

A0- LDCM 2282

A1 RCLM 2283

28TCS1278H (proably the A/H warmup bullshit?)

60 RFA BO516H (I got to check it again but its about 100 degrees in the car etc)

I'm just going to blow this car up! :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I had the same problem about two weeks ago.....so I checked The front of the radiator and its clean..I changed out the water pump...the belts and the thermostat last week or two.......Got the air out of the system too..

I don't know what it could be?

Its not blowing smoke...

Its running strong..

Its not using any coolant or oil...?

The fans seem to be running but at this point..I can't tell low speed from high speed etc...

I think its time to just throw down another cold one...

I really don't know...

If I blew a head gasket or had a leak.......would n't it be smoking? There's nothing...

Could it be a piston ring?

Could it be the maf? I took it off about 3 weeks ago to clean the air filter..etc...I dropped it about two inches to the ground....Maybe I broke a filement? I didn't think anything of it at the time....It wasn't really a drop..it was more like a light thud?
 

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1. space between the a/c cooler and the radiator full of debris?

2. fans not working?

3. bad thermo?

4. bad pump?

5. faulty cap?

6. system clogged?

Do you have an extended warranty?

Maybe it's time for "Mr. Goodwrench?"

JB, we feel your pain :mah:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I did! I did ! I did!

I'm telling you guys the reason I'm pissed Is I did all this already...! UGH! it just never ends! :lol:

The radiators clean...its flowing at 15lbs...I had the water pump, thermostat and belts changed..

I wanted to have the coolant flushed too but it was so clean the tech said ...don't do it. I didn't care about the money ...I just wanted the problem solved...but he suggested not to do it..so then I didn't do it...

I will say

I haven't looked between the radiator and the air conditioner though so I'll try that...

And to be honest..if I open the hood...I just can't hear or tell the sound differential of the low and high speed fans..

but if the a/c works at full blast inside the car doesn't that mean the fans are working at high?

Should pull the heat...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I do really appreciate your help...

This is my logic?

1. space between the a/c cooler and the radiator full of debris?(haven't looked and don't know how to see)

2. fans not working? (inside the car the A/c works at full blast like usual)

3. bad thermo? changed

4. bad pump? changed

5. faulty cap? Never checked but one guy who said he checked said the car passed the pressure test so wouldn't that mean the cap is good?

6. system clogged? Supposedly flowing at 15lbs so that would leave me to believe its not clogged...

----------------

I know its really a little problem....but sure is annoying! :lol:

I thought I had this issue resolved....and two weeks later its back..
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The codes:

A0 LDCM

B2284H

B2282H

U1062H

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A1 RDCM

B2283H
U1064H
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BORFA

U1064H

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60- IPC B0516H
 

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ok, your codes are:
A0- LDCM 2282: B2282 Battery #1 Fault

A1 RCLM 2283: B2283 Battery #1 Fault (s/b RDCM)

-----probably not one of those-----

28TCS1278H (proably the A/H warmup bullshit?): C1278 TCS Temporarily Inhibited By PCM (H=Historical code)

60 RFA BO516H (I got to check it again but its about 100 degrees in the car etc): can't find B0516H (again, H=Historical code)... however, i did find this:
60-IPC - Instrument Panel Cluster
B0516 Speedometer Signal Circuit Malfunction

Check your RFA code again. Although, that's for the Remote Function Actuation, so not sure it would be relevant.

i.e. you're not showing a code here that would make me think the car is too hot. perhaps it's a guage problem? what temp does the DIC read?
 

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Sorry, took me a while to compile from first list. Here we go, little faster this time I hope...



A0 Ldcm

B2284h
B2284 Battery #2 Fault

B2282h
B2282 Battery #1 Fault

U1062h
can't find it on my list

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A1 Rdcm

B2283h
B2283 Battery #1 Fault

U1064h
U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM
-----------------

Borfa

U1064h
U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM

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60- Ipc B0516h
B0516 Speedometer Signal Circuit Malfunction
 

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Does the oil look at all like chocolate milk?
Tony #54
 

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JB- if the previous suggestions dont work try this

1. Install a Hypertech 160 stat and have the fans reprogrammed to come on early via LS1 edit. TTP can take care of it for you.

2. have the coolant sensor checked.

3. Make sure your plastic air dam is still there.

Ive done step one when i did the H/C and my temps today were 192 due to the heat but normally its 180 deg. all day
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
tony the oil looks good. Not milky...

Z06newbie, Thanks for the codes check! That was awesome..

Long hot day for sure.

I tend to think a stock 196 degree thermostat should keep the temps under 260 degrees..

Before I change out to an aftermarket thermostat...I'd like to figure out exactly whats going on and causing this overheating issue...

I appreciate everyones in put...I just can't figure out whats causing it.
 

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01ZEE06 said.
Finally, you might want to flush and clean out the cooling system and put in some new coolant and soft water or tap water.....do not use distilled water.

I have always thought you should use distilled water to cut done on the mineral content. Is this wrong and why?

Thanks for any input...Stan
 

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As far as telling if the high-speed and low-speed fan are running, its easy... at temps over 220 stock, _both_ those electric fans should be running. Maybe I read your post about checking the fans incorrectly, and you've already verified they are both working.

It's 100^F here in Dallas this time of year, too. I've driven mine in traffic with the A/C on and it will not get above 200^F coolant temp. I have a 160 t-stat and the fans kick on at 178 and 198. Other than that, I have the stock cooling system. But I also have a TT which should create a bit more heat in theory.

Something is definitely wrong. I don't believe even with 100^F heat, A/C on, in traffic, with the stock t-stat and fan settings you should see over 235-240^F, and once you're moving it should come back down quickly into the 210-220 range.
 

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JB,

Even though the stat is new, it might not be opening all the way. Also, you might want to try a 160 stat.

Clean between the a/c cooler and the radiator.

As mentioned, fans working(?) and what temps are they set at?

Can't think of anything else.

My overheating problem will be fixed when the new engine is put in.....Mazier, Evans, restrictor, cleaned a/c cooler and radiator plus purged radiator. Builder claims it'll run at 190 all the time on the street or at the track.

Bottom line, you got a problem:guiness: Time for a C6?

P.S. Did you have these high temps at any time in the past 4 years on a hot day in traffic with a/c on? I would assume not and that's the reason you've had cooling system work done.....

HTH
 
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