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Stan2002,

Like you, I've always used distilled water. I read an article about a year ago written by Allied Chemical Company and they said NEVER use distilled water because it's missing an ion and is very hungry to replace that ion and eats up the aluminum in your cooling system.

They claim soft water is the best choice. Second best choice is tap water.

Now, I'm finding Evans has the best possible product for auto cooling systems. Do a search on Evans Coolant and you can read about this amazing stuff ;)

If you want to read that Allied Article, just pm me with your fax #.....
 

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JBsZ06, it is possible that the temperature sending unit is malfunctioning or some other computer system failure.

Is it really overheating or do the electronics think that it is (false warning).
Go to a shop with a non contact thermometer and compare the readings.

Sabot
 

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Pull The Radiator

ITS NOT CLEAN. Yoy cannot tell by looking at it inside the car. You have to pull it and hit with a high pressure hose. The vanes are plugged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Thanks guys...

The car for years has been running 187 to 192 degrees like clockwork...and now all of a sudden about

Two weeks ago or thereabouts...

The car did the same thing..so....

Changed the waterpump...Got the air out)
Changed the thermostat..
Changed to a new belt....

Two weeks later ..the problems back...

Was running 200 degrees coolant temps after I had the above items changed ...and now two weeks later...the cars up to 260 degrees coolant again...tonight..

I noticed the car gets hot really fast..for what its worth....Both oil and coolant get up to normal temperatures really fast...and now they seem to keep going up and up! :lol:

What makes me think its not a fan related issue is that even on the highway..the temps climb...May drop a little bit but not low enough that I think the problem is fan related..(would be good but I don't think so)

Thanks again guys..

JB
 

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Is it really hot or does it just think it is? Hum...Temp sensors?

Like other have said.

A new Stat does not mean it works, defect rate is about 4%. Maybe you got lucky, NOT.

Fans are the big deal here. Like others said are they coming on ? at all. Jack up the car so you can get under the front. Hold a piece of paper against the rad. When the fans come on it should hold it against the rad. Now turn on the AC and see if it is sucking it harder. You can see the diff on the eng side but fans are real close to the belts, so it's safer from the bottom.

If fans are ok .........

Put the old stat in water and cook to a boil, it should open before it boils. If it only opens part way or does not open till a complete boil at least you know it was bad. But if it was good, this was not your problem to begin with.

Cap sounds good at 15lbs to me, make sure it's snug though.

No one can tell what your system flows...he was refering to cap pressure.

If all above checks out and the old stat was good.

You have one of two problems.................

A clogged radiator or a blown head gasket.

Your local shop can test for a blown head gasket without taking it apart.

Note: If you have a blown head gasket and you do not have water in the oil. You have blown the exhaust side of the gasket. The symptoms here are , low coolant level, sweet smell in the exhaust. I don't mean the water level goes to empty, just eyeball the level in the tank. Now take a short drive and let it cool and check it again. If you lost an inch or so this is your problem.

I know you are pissed and depressed but don't end it all by sniffing the tailpipe too long ;) humor

I have fought these problems many times on other cars. I will tell you that many people replace water pumps that are not bad. Unless the pump is leaking or the shaft is broken a pump is good. It is just a shaft with a paddle on it, unless the system is so coroded that the paddle erodes itself or the shaft breaks it can't stop working. The only exception I have ever seen is a 24v ford v6 that had a plastic impeller that would fall apart. I think your impeller is alum.


Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
The fans seem to be working as the a/c in the car blows real strong..

I can see the high speed fan on the passenger side...but I can't see the drivers side low speed fan..

so I'll try the idea of putting a piece of paper on the front of the radiator and looking to see if its getting sucked to the face (front ) of the radiator..

I tested the old thermostat today in a pot of boiling water and sure enough it opened up (but couldn't find a therometer to see at what temps)

Couldn't find a dam thing in the kitchen...to test it with...

My luck will probably be pulling me towards an exhaust head gasket as you suggested....

yet I haven't noticed any drop in coolant in the reserve tank.

I'll check again tommorow morning but as the car heats up...the coolant level looks as though its rising....not falling as you mentioned..

I"m only fooling around about getting disgusted with the car although it is kind of a pain in the @ss...since I don't really have the time for this...You'all now how that goes I'm sure.
 

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JB -

The A/C blowing at you real hard has nothing to do with the cooling fans. You need to pop the hood and verify both fans are running at over 220deg. Just look down there and make sure they're spinning.

If they're not, fix them.

If they are, do what GrimReaper says and pull the radiator, you probably have something stuck between the vanes, gumming it up and blocking airflow. Also, you may need to yank the A/C condenser , as it could have crap in it as well (more likely as it sits in front).

I'm on a stock cooling system, and drive around Phoenix with my temps rarely exceeding 220 (the car has been saying outside temps are over 115, and saw 120 the other day).

Your car is sick, but its probably just crap built up somewhere, don't stress too hard, just fix it before it blows up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I see the high speed fan working on the passenger side. Can't see into the drivers side low speed fan..

What concerns me is that at highway speeds the temps still are way too high...

The cars getting to be a pain in the rear lately (last few weeks anyway)

Hope to clear the issue up without too much trouble and I will use all your good ideas as a place to start searching.

Thanks again..
 

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Verify what the temps are. You might have just a bad sensor. Use a heat gun and get the temp at the top of the radiator hose and at the bottom hose. There should be a drop of 20F. That will tell you if the radiator is dissapating heat as designed. If a lot more than that the water is NOT circulating.
I can let me car idle for 20 minutes and the temp never gets over 210 and thats with H/C mods. Something doesn't sound right. You should see a water pump pressure drop when the thermo opens up.
You can measure block pressure when it is cold and then as the thermo opens up the pressure should drop and at the SAME time take a heat gun and verify that the thermo opens up. The top hose should get the same temp as the engine. You don't want to be running aluminum heads under those temps!
 

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22655TD said:
Verify what the temps are. You might have just a bad sensor. Use a heat gun and get the temp at the top of the radiator hose and at the bottom hose. There should be a drop of 20F. That will tell you if the radiator is dissapating heat as designed. If a lot more than that the water is NOT circulating.
I can let me car idle for 20 minutes and the temp never gets over 210 and thats with H/C mods. Something doesn't sound right. You should see a water pump pressure drop when the thermo opens up.
You can measure block pressure when it is cold and then as the thermo opens up the pressure should drop and at the SAME time take a heat gun and verify that the thermo opens up. The top hose should get the same temp as the engine. You don't want to be running aluminum heads under those temps!
I'm thinking a good possibility that it's your sending unit. One way you can verify it is to remove the sending unit from the head. Put the sending unit in a pan of water on a hot plate along with a thermometer (you'll need a thermometer like a Heating and Air tech uses). Heat the water to a boil (212 degrees) and look at the gauge in the car to see if it matches what the thermometer reads (ignition on). Note: you will have to provide a ground from the sending unit to a ground point on the car such as the engine. If need be, you can use alligator leads like the ones you can purchase at Radio Shack to extend the length of the wires.
 

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Before I got my Predator last year my coolant temp was always in the mid to upper 220's at idle on hot days. It always bothered me - no matter what everyone says - that these cars will take those temps with no problems (factory setting for the 1st fan temp is somewhere around 223).

With the Predator - you can reprogram the fan settings. Now I can watch the temp rise to where I have the 1st fan set and the temp then falls back down - normal temp is in mid 190's now (I also put in a 190 degree thermostat).

Good luck.
Joe
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Joe,

thanks for the heads up. I don't believe its a programing issue as the car has had ls1edit for a couple of years now.

All was great till about a few weeks ago and now its got this problem of overheating. I hope to have the problem resolved whatever it might be over the next week or so..

Till then I appreciate the insights of those in the know..

Gives me a lot of good places to look for possible areas causing the problem.
 

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Pull the radiator

Grim Reaper said:
ITS NOT CLEAN. Yoy cannot tell by looking at it inside the car. You have to pull it and hit with a high pressure hose. The vanes are plugged.
Echo
 

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Just pull the radiator like grim reaper has stated many times.. If that doesnt work, throw it in the gutter and go buy another.
 

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JubJub is correct about finding out if she is really overheating. From years on this and other Forums, PLEASE get under the front end ASAP and see if the Radiator or Condenser has vacuumed up a plastic bag or something. :jawdrop:
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
The front of the radiator is clear. Theres no plastic bags.

The radiator is pulling 20 to 30 degrees out of the coolant from the bottom inlet to the top.

The coolant sensor was bad as it was reading 25 to 30 degrees higher than the coolant in the radiator....

Changed the sensor. The belts have the right tension. The fans are working.

Its still over heating...

Oh..the compression on all cylinders is 175lbs..

Any other guesses?
 

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Theres Some Good Man Hear

That Know a lot :usa: What i have done .I us 180 stat Reprogrammed so fan comes on at 186 :idea: I use a high pressure Hose from a car wash .The frount cover of the radiator on top both sides you can open up to put the hose in there , I have a cool car :sneaky:
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I had a 178 degree thermostat and the radiator is clean....I had the pcm reprogramed to come on earlier..

I've been running that for a few years....

Now I have this bizzare overheating issue...

Any other insight or ideas would be appreciated...
 

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My temps were runnin >250* after having some work done on the engine. I did all the above and could not find the problem.

I bought a DRM rad from a forum member and as I was removing the rad I found paper wedged in between the rad and condensor. Not sure how it got there but I have a hunch :roll: Tuner says it got sucked up there :roll: Yeah right :roll:

Put it all back together just to see if this was indeed the case before installing the now not needed DRM Rad :mah: and temps dropped to 178*.

Trying putting some cardboard between the rad and condensor and blowing air through the rad to clean the vanes, prolly clogged up a bit. :yeadog:
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
B_P_fox said:
My temps were runnin >250* after having some work done on the engine. I did all the above and could not find the problem.

I bought a DRM rad from a forum member and as I was removing the rad I found paper wedged in between the rad and condensor. Not sure how it got there but I have a hunch :roll: Tuner says it got sucked up there :roll: Yeah right :roll:

Put it all back together just to see if this was indeed the case before installing the now not needed DRM Rad :mah: and temps dropped to 178*.

Trying putting some cardboard between the rad and condensor and blowing air through the rad to clean the vanes, prolly clogged up a bit. :yeadog:
Thanks! I'll give it a shot and see what happens...

I got a feeling its the somehow connected to the A/C.

I can get it to shoot up to 245 degrees with A/c on full blast driving the car...83 degrees outside (23 minutes)....then turn off A/c and idle the car and it will come down to 210 degrees in 12 minutes...

Then I can drive at 40mph @ 4000 rpms and cant get the car past 221 degrees maybe 225 degrees tops and drag the car etc....running 214 tops which might just be left over heat soak...

Park the car after an hour? 212 degrees coolant. Can't get it over 225degrees...with A/c off.

Possibly an idea?

I will try the paper idea too..
 
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