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Front:

Lowering a C5 is very simple especially if you have access to a lift. I had my Vette mechanic (Vettemaster) lower Sherylann's Z06.



You need to ease the tension on the front spring by using a jack.



Use a 10 mm socket and turn the bolt fully counterclockwise, then back off 1/4 turn.





Rear:

Locate rear adjusting bolt. Use a 13/16" wrench on the top nut and a 18 mm wrench on the bottom.

Top view:



Bottom view:



Turn lower bolt until 2 threads remain showing on the top.





That's it...its best if you have your alignment checked after about 1 week of driving. Be sure to take a banner picture of the mechanic!!



Disclaimer: Neither the author nor the *Vette family of sites claim any fitness or warranty on the above diy tips. Any injury or damage incurred as a result of the use of the tips is the resposibility of the user.
 

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just want to note if the car is slightly older and stock some adjusting bolts may be stuck. easiest solution was to take the leaf out, very easy on jack stands, i welded a nut on the stock bolt- no problem spun right out. now she is slammed on stock z06 gear and rides pretty decent, for new england roads i guess! just want to add i took out the stock bolt altogether and made my own rubber pad out convetor belt material, the spring will rub on the control arm if you don't protect it, and used my own blend of epoxy resin to hold it in place. its very quiet and looks great with 265/35-18 in the front
 

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i just did this mod and drove it for about 10 miles and it doesnt look any different, how long does it take to settle?
 

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i just did this mod and drove it for about 10 miles and it doesnt look any different, how long does it take to settle?
Welcome to :z: and thank you for your service to our country :yeadog:
Did you lower as much as stock bolts would allow? (you have the front snubber tightened against the leaf on the bottom and max threads showing on top?)
In the rear you have dropped an equal amount (gives' you about one finger difference in height and keeps rake the same as before)
It should settle to lowered height in 50 miles or so.
Then get the alignment checked and reset.
 

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Welcome to :z: and thank you for your service to our country :yeadog:
Did you lower as much as stock bolts would allow? (you have the front snubber tightened against the leaf on the bottom and max threads showing on top?)
In the rear you have dropped an equal amount (gives' you about one finger difference in height and keeps rake the same as before)
It should settle to lowered height in 50 miles or so.
Then get the alignment checked and reset.
Your welcome, Im glad to be here and finally own a Z06. i did exactly what the directions said to do. i left 2 threads in the back showing (equal on both sides) and did 1 full counterclockwise turn then backed off a quarter turn. i think it is settling a little bit more. i have never had to do something like this before. I just came from a Honda S2000 and had a full coilover suspension on there so i guess i just expected more right off the bat. But i will be happy if it sits like the red one in the pic above does. Next mod exhaust. Thanks for such a quick response. :thumb:
 

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so did the car settle down?
 

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Not really,if it did then it was very little. The thing still looks like a monster truck. I can fit about 3 1/2 fingers in the gap on the front and rear. its driving me nuts.
 

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you could always do some coilovers
Im not going to track the car, i just want to make it look pretty. I will eventually attemp to cut the bushings and if that doesnt work get longer bolts. I just need to find out what kind to get. If the red car above did it like that i dont understand how mine is sitting so much higher.
 

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Mine dropped about a finger - normal sized hand - got 4 fingers between tire and fender before; 3 after.
If you want to go lower, instead of cutting your bushings, you might look at the kit that either Vette Brakes & Products or ZIP products sells ... few bux and quicker ... :idea:
They also sell a bump steer kit. (necessary when you drop past the stock range of adjustment, IMHO)
 

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Mine dropped about a finger - normal sized hand - got 4 fingers between tire and fender before; 3 after.
If you want to go lower, instead of cutting your bushings, you might look at the kit that either Vette Brakes & Products or ZIP products sells ... few bux and quicker ... :idea:
They also sell a bump steer kit. (necessary when you drop past the stock range of adjustment, IMHO)
Yeah i will check those out. Thanks i appreciate that.
 

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Yeah i will check those out. Thanks i appreciate that.
I have the ZIP kit. It has not been installed ever. I plan to try lowering on the stock bolts, if I am not happy I will use the zip kit, if I am happy i would gladly sell it to you for a good price.
 

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ah, you know I just went and ordered up one of those eibach pro-kit lowering kits... didn't even think to swing by here and check for stuff like this first.
Well, I'll see if it works out in my favor, or if it was a waste of $60 and I'm just an uninformed consumer...

But I've got to ask... I saw on the first page someone said you might need a "bump-steer" kit if you go lower than stock hardware will allow. What's the deal with this and what does it entail??? any links? Help me out! thanks.
 

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OK, ... Vols Fan ... I didn't cut my bushings; from what I've read, some have cut them on the car using a hacksaw and some have removed them.

Monster ... did you get springs or adjustment bolts and perhaps pads for the front?
Google bump steer corvette and you'll get some information.
Essentially, the kit consists of adjustable tie rod ends.
Quote from one vendor:
"Bump steer occurs when intentional changes to steering geometry, such as caster, camber, or static ride height, result in undesired, dynamic changes to toe settings. This happens when the initial angle of the tie rod, due to altered geometry, is such that when the suspension is articulated through a range of motion, the tie rod is not able to travel in the same arc as the steering arm on the spindle. At the point the steering arm and tie rod arcs become different, unwanted steering input results. In driving, this normally shows up when the suspension is already "loaded" (as in hard cornering, and particularly when simultaneously braking) and a change in road surface (pot hole, bump, other) is encountered. In such cases, the car darts sharply and unexpectedly. In an extreme case, this can cause a total loss of control. At the minimum, it is unsettling, unsafe, and undesirable."
 

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OK, ... Vols Fan ... I didn't cut my bushings; from what I've read, some have cut them on the car using a hacksaw and some have removed them.

Monster ... did you get springs or adjustment bolts and perhaps pads for the front?
Google bump steer corvette and you'll get some information.
Essentially, the kit consists of adjustable tie rod ends.
Quote from one vendor:
"Bump steer occurs when intentional changes to steering geometry, such as caster, camber, or static ride height, result in undesired, dynamic changes to toe settings. This happens when the initial angle of the tie rod, due to altered geometry, is such that when the suspension is articulated through a range of motion, the tie rod is not able to travel in the same arc as the steering arm on the spindle. At the point the steering arm and tie rod arcs become different, unwanted steering input results. In driving, this normally shows up when the suspension is already "loaded" (as in hard cornering, and particularly when simultaneously braking) and a change in road surface (pot hole, bump, other) is encountered. In such cases, the car darts sharply and unexpectedly. In an extreme case, this can cause a total loss of control. At the minimum, it is unsettling, unsafe, and undesirable."

Hey, thanks for the info.

The kit I ordered includes no springs, only hardware like bolts/nuts, and some urethane pads or something of the sort, it's the Eibach "pro-kit", and I've had great experience with Eibach products in the past so I decided to trust it without much research.
As far as my knowledge goes here, I'm not aware of any "spring-kits" for the C5 vette, other than full coil-over set-ups, which I would LOVE to have for the adjustability and versatility, but for all the stage 1 goodies I just dropped my hard earned money on I feel I got more for that money. :sneaky: I don't need new dampeners at the moment either.


And excuse my ignorance again, but seriously, the ZO6 does not come with OE adjustable tie rod ends??? :screwy: Even my '02 Sierra has those, even if they are spindly.... How are you supposed to adjust toe angles on a stocker?
Also seems completely ridiculous to me to think that the suspension geometry throughout it's travel range would alter the toe (what is it called, ackerman or something?) so significantly as to say we need a kit to solve this from the aftermarket. So a factory stock ZO6 driven hard, or on a track day is not supposed to have suspension movement up front? Or if god forbid, it does happen to cycle through compression you'll just lose complete control because your tires are aiming at eachother. ???!!! :mah: what the hell.
 

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Monster ...
I only asked about the springs, 'cause Eibach shows them in their "pro kit" but then says the kit "may only consist of bolts & pads" ... at the price you paid, I assumed the latter, but figured I'd ask.
Coilovers is much more $
On the bump steer ... if you lower beyond the factory front bolt adjustment range, you are changing the level of the A-arm relative to the ground, and allowing it to "kick out" more, thus necessitating unscrewing the tie rod ends (yes, the stockers are adjustable) to maintain proper toe.
And you will have limited suspension travel ... and you will need new (shorter) dampers to keep the suspension off the bump stops.
There's a comprehensive step through discussion on lowering here: See DJWorm at post # 8 :yeadog:
http://www.z06vette.com/forums/f5/need-suspension-ride-height-help-djworm-102183/
 
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