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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I started with the obvious, chocking the front tires and jacking the rear of the car. I placed my flat-top AC Hydraulics jackstands under the rear jacking pucks in order that they would not be in the way.

NOTE: AS I HAD ALREADY REMOVED AND INSTALLED THE UPPER CONTROL ARM THERE WAS NO NEED TO PULL THE HUB OR DO ANYTHING TO THE HALFSHAFTS. Most of the write-ups I have read involved pulling the hubs. This just isn't necessary!

1. I started by marking the orientation of the cam bolts with a Sharpie in order to get them close to where they were upon reinstallation of the control arms.
2. The next thing I needed to do was measure the rear spring stud height. I used a Starrett 799 electronic caliper to do this. Using the depth guage I measured the distance from the top of the rear spring bolt to the top of the nut, writing this dimension on the control arm with a Sharpie. This is very accurate as you get the dimension to 0.001 inch. You can also count threads, although this is not as accurate.
3. I removed the rear fuel tank cover, removing a 10mm nut and a 13mm screw. This cover must be removed to get the cam bolts out.
4. Disconnect the wheel sped sensor electrical connector.
5. I placed my AC Hydraulics DK13HQL floor jack, with its rubber pad under the spring to relieve the tension. Using a 21mm wrench on the spring bolt nut and an 18mm socket on the bolt, I removed the spring bolt and released the spring tension. I did this on both sides so there was on energy stored in the spring.
6. I removed the four spring retaining bolts, PN 03545602, with a 13mm socket. I then removed the rear spring and set it aside.
7. I raised the control arm slightly with the floor jack and removed the lower shock absorber nut, PN 11516383, and the lower shock absorber bolt, PN 14048990. I used a 24mm socket on a breaker bar and a 24mm socket on a long ratchet to loosen these as they are tight.
8. I removed the anti-toll bar link from the control arm. You can do this using a 6mm Allen wrench on the end of the stud and an 18mm socket on the stud nut. I prefer to use an 18mm open end wrench on the stud flat and an 18mm socket on the stud nut.
9. The next step is to loosen the lower ball joint stud nut and this is probably the most difficult part of the job. The J42188 joint separator tool comes with a 6mm Allen wrench about 0.25 inches long welded to a piece of flat bar about 0.5"x5". The working space here is very tight and if you don't want to purchase this tool I suggest that you make one as it makes the job MUCH easier. Using a 21mmSnap-on crowfoot and the 6mm Allen wrench I loosened the ball joint stud nut, PN 10282253, and separated the joint. DO NOT REUSE THE NUT.
10. Loosen the front pivot bolt nut using a 21mm wrench and a 21mm socket, removing the nut.
11. Loosen the rear pivot bolt nut using an 18mm wrench on the nut and a 15mm socket on the bolt head.
12. Work the bolts out and remove the control arm. Replace the bushings in the shop.
13. Reinstall the control arm to the cradle, lining-up the cam bolts marks made earlier. Using a 21mm wrench and 21mm socket on a torque wrench, tighten the front pivot bolt nut to 107 ft lbs. Using the 18mm wrench and 15mm socket tighten the rear pivot not to 70 ft lbs.
14. Install the lower ball joint stud to the knuckle (upright). Using a NEW crush nut, PN 10282253, tighten to 15 ft lbs using the 21mm crowfoot and the 6mm Allen wrench. Mark the nut with a Sharpie and tighten an additional 3.5 flats to a minimun torque of 41 ft lbs.
15. Placing the floor jack under the control arm position the control arm so as to install the anti-roll bar link stud. Using an 18 mm wrench on the flat and an 18mm socket on the stud nut tighten to 53 ft lbs.
16. Install a NEW lower shock absorber bolt, PN 14048990, and a NEW nut, PN 11516383. Tighten to 162 ft lbs using a 24mm socket on a breaker bar and a 24mm socket on a torque wrench.
17. Install the leaf spring using 4 NEW bolts, PN 03545602, tightening to 46 ft lbs.
18. Placing the floor jack under the end of the spring to relieve the tension, install the spring bolts to the stud height measured earlier.
19. Connect the wheel speed electrical connector.
20. Install the rear fuel tank cover.

That's it, jobs done. It appears to be much more work than it is. Don't install the rear spring until you have finished with both control arms. Figure on an hour for each side.
 

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Re: Rear Lower Control Arm Removal and Installation

Hey Dave, it sure would be nice if you could post some pics of the R&R. Do you have any?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Re: Rear Lower Control Arm Removal and Installation

Hi Jub Jub:
Unfortunately I didn't take photos as I did this job. It is about 35 degrees Fahrenheit and raining at the moment. When I get the opportunity I can take some pictures of what it looks like put together. As I stated it really isn't that difficult. It sounds like more work than it was. I had fun with this modification.
 
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