Corvette Z06 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Guys,
I managed to gouge 2x wheel studs on the RR wheel this weekend. Never happened on any car I have owned.
Chevy dealer says they sell the wheel studs individually, but could not advise on how to remove damaged studs and install new studs.
Anyone know how this done, i.e. are they threaded (LH thread) into the wheel flange or press fit or ??
Thanks
Thomas
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,709 Posts
Its going to a bit of a PITA. The studs are pressed on. You are going to have to disassemble the entire rear wheel bearing assy from the car. Here is most of it from the GM manual.

My first tip would be to call your dealer and see how much they want to do it.

Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.

Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.

Remove the rear wheel hub/speed sensor assembly from the suspension knuckle. Refer to Wheel Bearing/Hub Replacement - Rear .

Wheel Bearing/Hub Replacement - Rear
Removal Procedure




Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Disconnect the wheel speed sensor electrical connector.



Disconnect the real time damping (RTD) position sensor link, if equipped.
Remove the brake caliper and rotor. Refer to Brake Caliper Bracket Replacement - Rear and Brake Rotor Replacement - Front in Disc Brakes.



Remove the shock absorber solenoid electrical connector, if equipped.
Separate the outer tie rod end from the suspension knuckle. Refer to Tie Rod Replacement .
Remove the spindle nut retainer, the spindle nut and the washer. Refer to Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement in Wheel Drive Shafts.



Separate the upper control arm (1) from the suspension knuckle. Refer to Rear Axle Upper Control Arm Replacement .
Separate the suspension knuckle from the lower control arm ball joint stud (4). Refer to Rear Axle Lower Control Arm Replacement .
Remove the suspension knuckle from the vehicle.



Remove the wheel hub mounting bolts.
Remove the hub and bearing assembly from the suspension knuckle.
Installation Procedure





Notice
The Front and Rear Wheel Hub/Wheel Speed Sensors are not interchangeable. When you are replacing a Wheel Hub/Wheel Speed Sensor be sure to use the correct Wheel Hub/Wheel Speed Sensor part number. Do not mount the Rear Wheel Hub/Wheel Speed Sensor in the front steering knuckle. The Rear Wheel Hub/Wheel Speed Sensor features a splined hole through the center of the bearing which mates to the drive axle. The Rear Wheel Hub/Wheel Speed Sensor requires the support of the drive axle and the drive axle nut clamped joint to properly carry the vehicle loads. Mounting the Rear Wheel Hub/Wheel Speed Sensor in the front steering knuckle can cause bearing failure and possible damage to the vehicle.


Install the wheel hub and bearing assembly to the suspension knuckle.

Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.


Install the wheel hub mounting bolts. Tighten
Tighten the wheel hub mounting bolts to 130 N·m (96 lb ft).





Install the suspension knuckle to the upper control arm (1). Refer to Rear Axle Upper Control Arm Replacement .
Install the suspension knuckle (2) to the lower control arm ball stud (4). Refer to Rear Axle Lower Control Arm Replacement .
Install the spindle nut, washer and retainer. Refer to Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement in Wheel Drive Shafts.
Install the outer tie rod end stud to the suspension knuckle. Refer to Tie Rod Replacement .
Install the brake rotor and caliper. Refer to Brake Caliper Bracket Replacement - Rear and Brake Rotor Replacement - Front in Disc Brakes.



Connect the wheel speed sensor electrical connector.



Install the shock absorber solenoid electrical connector, if equipped.



Connect the real time damping position sensor link, if equipped.
Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Lower the vehicle.



Install J 43631 onto the wheel hub and stud. (just a c-clamp with a hole in the backside to press the stud out)

Turn the forcing screw in until the stud is pushed out of the wheel hub.
Installation Procedure
Place a new stud in the wheel hub.



Place some washers (1) onto the wheel stud (3).

Important
Make sure that the wheel stud is fully seated against the wheel hub flange.


With the flat side of a wheel nut against the washers, tighten the wheel nut until the wheel stud head seats against the wheel hub flange.
Remove the wheel nut and washers.
Install the rear wheel hub/speed sensor assembly into the suspension knuckle. Refer to Wheel Bearing/Hub Replacement - Rear .
Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Lower the vehicle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
872 Posts
I did this a few months back. Do you track it? If so, I suggest that if you do decide to do it, upgrade the OEM lugs to a nice set of ARPs... 100+Kpsi lugs. Might as well since you have the hub out.

Without any instructions but the torque specs, I think it took me about 45 minutes per wheel just to free the hub. The nasty part was whacking out the old lugs and pressing in the ARPs.

Don't try unless you have a nice bench/vice set up. OEM replacement will be much easier than ARPS.

Also the 1 hour delay... a run to Pep Boys to buy a 34MM Axle Nut Socket. Figure on taking an entire afternoon to do both wheels, all lugs. I seem to remember there being some TORX bolts that are a little nasty to get at, but nothing hard... Forget the size.

If you have the tools, it's an easy driveway job.

Good Luck...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
JOEZO6 & GMBLACK3,
Thanks for the tips and GM procedure.
I was thinking - what about NOT removing the hub and cutting off the old studs with a hack saw then drilling them out (with hub on axle). It seems that the only reason to remove the hub is to be able to access the rear of it to mount the modified C-clamp to press the old stud out - correct ???
Then pressing in the replacements as per the GM procedure (with the washers and wheel nut reversed) ???
Do you guys think that will work ? It appears to be at lot less effort to NOT have to remove the hub.
thanks
Thomas
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
GMBLACK3,
Is the new stud mounted from the side of the wheel flange facing outwards or the side facing inwards ?? In other words do you push it into the wheel flange from the outboard side or do you pull it through from the back of the wheel flange ???
Thomas
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,744 Posts
tsalva said:
GMBLACK3,
Is the new stud mounted from the side of the wheel flange facing outwards or the side facing inwards ?? In other words do you push it into the wheel flange from the outboard side or do you pull it through from the back of the wheel flange ???
Thomas

you pull it through from the back of the wheel flange
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
687 Posts
Ok,
Teck tip #1: You can pound the old stud out with a good size hammer. You will not have to cut them off, they just pound out easily.

This will free the stud past the knurle. To remove the stud on the rear, you can drill one hole, aprox a 5/8" in the E brake backing plate in line with the stud. ( there is a flat circle in the rear of the backing plate that is a good spot to drill the hole)
This will allow you to remove the studs out the back without removing the hub. Rotate the hub to line each stud up with the hole that you drilled. The front studs have no problem coming out the back.

Follow Gmblack03's instructions to reinstall the new studs, and away you go.

Tip: after you install the wheel and drive the car, you must retorque the wheel nuts again to make sure that the studs are seated properly to the hub.

Hope this helps.

Lou Gigliotti LG Motorsports
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Lou,
Thanks a million. This will make the job A LOT easier.
I'll follow the new method.
Thomas
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
872 Posts
I almost tried that (drill the hole in the backing plate)....
After 10 seconds of thought, I chickened out and pulled the hubs.... :lol:

What do you do with the hole in the backing plate? I suppose you could get a rubber grommet thingy and plug it. Thought is that unplugged, you will get crap inside... potentially foul the emergency brake, etc... No???? I am no mechanic, but leaving a hole open concerns me. Any part numbers on plugs???

I think the tip would be GREAT for a single OEM stud replacement which are sized to fit perfectly with the hub, but I would NOT do it while swapping for ARP racing studs... I pounded the living daylights out of those studs to seat right on a vice, and there is no way I could have done it on the car. ;-( The ARPs will gall a little on the way in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
200 Posts
L G Motorsports said:
Ok,
Teck tip #1: You can pound the old stud out with a good size hammer. You will not have to cut them off, they just pound out easily.

This will free the stud past the knurle. To remove the stud on the rear, you can drill one hole, aprox a 5/8" in the E brake backing plate in line with the stud. ( there is a flat circle in the rear of the backing plate that is a good spot to drill the hole)
This will allow you to remove the studs out the back without removing the hub. Rotate the hub to line each stud up with the hole that you drilled. The front studs have no problem coming out the back.

Follow Gmblack03's instructions to reinstall the new studs, and away you go.

Tip: after you install the wheel and drive the car, you must retorque the wheel nuts again to make sure that the studs are seated properly to the hub.

Hope this helps.

Lou Gigliotti LG Motorsports
This was the only step I needed that day at the track when one of my RR studs broke. :( Nice tip!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
412 Posts
I am in the process of changing to .5" longer studs to accomodate a set of used Kodiak wheels I bought (..bought the high-perf studs from DRM).

L G Motorsports said:
Ok,
Teck tip #1: You can pound the old stud out with a good size hammer. You will not have to cut them off, they just pound out easily.
This worked perfectly on the front, thanks for the tip! :cheers:

However...
To remove the stud on the rear, you can drill one hole, aprox a 5/8" in the E brake backing plate in line with the stud. ( there is a flat circle in the rear of the backing plate that is a good spot to drill the hole)
This will allow you to remove the studs out the back without removing the hub. Rotate the hub to line each stud up with the hole that you drilled. The front studs have no problem coming out the back.
Has anyone else done this? I took a peek at this and really didn't see an area to drill; can someone expound on an exact location to do the drilling?

If I 'chicken out' like JOEZ06 and end up pulling the rear hub, are there any 'gotchas' I should be aware of?

Thanks in advance!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,563 Posts
SRV,
I lost a rear stud last year and had to replace it. I looked at the drilling method and like you, chickened out. I pulled the whole rear hub off and replaced the whole rear bearing assembly on both sides of the car in an afternoon and I had never done it before.

You'll need the right size splitter to pop the upper, lower ball joints on the spindle and the ball joint on the tie rod. I bought a set from Sears and was okay there.

You'll also need a 34mm socket to get the axle nut off and those are hard to find. I ended up getting a 34mm impact wrench socket from Napa.

One thing I didn't do but wish I had was replaced the half shaft axle seals when I had the rear apart. I learned after the fact that I was one step away from pulling the half shaft out and replacing the seals when I did this. Would've been really easy to get this done at that time.

As a note, I have the shop manual and followed that without much heartache. :cheers:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
412 Posts
Hi Sub, thanks for responding! :cheers:

Subdriver said:
You'll need the right size splitter to pop the upper, lower ball joints on the spindle and the ball joint on the tie rod. I bought a set from Sears and was okay there.
Is that the exact name of the tool, a 'splitter'? Also, what size do I need? As soon as I get off of work, I'm heading over to Sears to buy one. I've officially chickened out!

You'll also need a 34mm socket to get the axle nut off and those are hard to find. I ended up getting a 34mm impact wrench socket from Napa.
I'll be going there too...

As a note, I have the shop manual and followed that without much heartache. :cheers:
I do have the shop manuals.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,459 Posts
I used the Kent Moore splitters the book calls for. The gotcha with the book is that if you look in the wheel stud section, they say one ball joint tool. When you look under another section, it calls for a different splitter.

I bought both. I really only needed the one splitter for the ball joints, the one listed under the wheel stud is used to push the studs out.

I'm not sure about the sear tools, but I went with the kent moores, and found that there is no problem pushing the ball joints out, no marks left on the arms, or the upright. The kent moores are spendy though.

If you're replacing stock for stock, the front doesn't need to come apart, but if you do like some of us, and put in the ARP studs (longer), you have to pull the front hub as well.

I bought my 34mm socket from snap on, and had to get it in an impact format, as they don't make a standard socket in that size.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
412 Posts
Thank you Mike! :cheers:

mgarfias said:
If you're replacing stock for stock, the front doesn't need to come apart, but if you do like some of us, and put in the ARP studs (longer), you have to pull the front hub as well.
In case you're not aware of it, I was able to install .5" longer studs on the front without having to pull the front hub. It took a little bit of hand-gymnastics, but after the second stud, the remaining eight were relatively easy to do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
I also cannot find the flat spot to drill the hole on the backing plate. Can anyone explain in a bit more detail where the location is?
BTW, there already is a square hole in the backing plate that the factory did not even bother covering up. We can at least put some tape over the hole we create to keep debree out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,384 Posts
I just had a stud booger up removing my track wheels... I'll beusing the drill method :cheers:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
FYI GM makes longer wheel studs and tha part number is Wheel Studs 22551491.

I got the part number from Aaron Quinne at the NCCC convention last week in Nashville.
 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Top