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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was just wondering if the T1 bars will enable my low end camber settings to be more useful if the tire isn't being rolled over as much.

Now I know I am missing something here like shocks, springs and how that impacts it.
:yeadog:

But was curious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I guess what I meant though is will the car not roll as much and thus not need as much camber.

My guess if you stiffen a car to have zero movement or travel you would want minimal camber.
 

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To be more explicite:

If you had excessive Roll, adding more negative camber would NOT decrease the Roll. You decrease Roll by increasing the spring rate, increasing the swaybar rate and lowering the CG and the Rollcenter.

However if you had say an increased outside tire temperature due to excessive roll you could add more negative camber and make tire pressure adjustments.

Conversely if you add a stiffer T1 bar and reduce Roll you may then change tire temperatures and would have to make tire pressure and camber adjustments accordingly. It all depends on what the tires tell you.
 

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DJ's correct. Don't start monkeying with Camber and such until you see what the tire temps are. If you don't have a pyrometer, get one before your next event and check your tire temps as soon as you come off track after a hot lap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Got the full level 12 memory one before the event and it helped a ton. Especially with the Pilot Cup Tires which were a bear to tune in but loved low low pressures. Like 32lbs hot.

But outside temps are still to hot as compared to inside due to not enough camber (ie drive to track..I know I know trailer it) but got best I could with pressures with out being over inflated and having best average temp.

My guess is if I don't change camber but change body roll (T1 sway bars) then less roll should mean less working off the outside of the tire and more across the whole tire all things being equal.
Then could adjust,etc.. based on new temps.

Does that make sense??
Or am I just going round and round on avoiding a true track alignment (camber) setting?
:crazy:
 

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You are going round and round. But you don't necessarily have to trailer it.

What you need to do is have your alignment technician mark a street setting and a track setting on your adjusters. Then take 20 minutes before and after a track session to switch.

It is foolish to run a compromised alignment setting at the track and try to tune to it. Waste of time & money. Your skills will quickly evolve past the capabilities of a compromised alignment and you will soon become frustrated.

Likewise it is a waste of time and money to run expensive street tires on the track. It is much better to buy a set of stronger and lighter race wheels and run cheaper and higher performance race tires.

You'll be much happier, learn faster, won't have to relearn the car, be safer, be more confident, know the true limits of the car, etc. etc.
 
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