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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed the DRM ducts along with the LG Motorsports spindle duct ends. Both were an adventure, especially the DRM extensions. I am very happy with both of them, now that they are just about done. First the extensions:

Wow, those instructions suck - no nice way to say it. There is a lot left to the imagination, and instructions are just plain wrong. The pictures, especially the one that shows you where to cut your fender well, outboard of the existing duct holes, are just plain misleading. OK, I feel better now - back to being constructive...

When cutting into your fender well, please ignore the pictures or you will give yourself a fiberglassing opportunity on the first one you cut. Instead, cut toward the inner wall of the well getting as close to the inner wall as you tool allows. extending the opening a little bit higher than the original - about 1 inch. This will allow the duct extension to sit very flat against the inner wall.

Also, beware of the picture that shows you where to fasten the duct extension to the inner wall - it is wrong - I have extra holes in my car to prove it :). Instead, consider that your rotors are only slightly smaller than the inside diameter of your wheels. Use this as a guide, keeping in mind that the suspension is unloaded. The picture shows the exit hole of the extension tight to the upper control arm, and barely below the recessed area for the front mount. This position is too high, I (am) only able to turn the wheel 270 deg before the hose and inner wheel hit. I believe I will need to lower the mounting point by about 1.5". This should give good wheel clearance and make the connection to the original ducts line up better as well.

I cut my original ducts as directed. There was no way they were ever going to fit inside the DRM extensions without folding a portion over. This turned out to be good. I cut down the DRM ducts further - a little at a time, until the two ends butted. I then used a 4" flexible connector (as in PVC plumbing supplies) with two hose clamps, one on each section. This is a very solid set up that keeps plenty of force on the original ducts to keep them in place.

The LG Spindle ducts were much easier. They came with no instructions, but it was clear that they are meant to replace the metal shim/abs sensor mount between the wheel bearing and its carrier. Use the GM shop manual, but you only need to separate the lower ball joint - so you can unbolt the wheel bearing. Mine came apart by themselves, but have a pickle fork handy just in case.

The spindle ducts go in place without interfering with the calipers as other posts have suggested. No metal work was required. You will want to bend the plate slightly to adjust it close to your rotor. You no longer have your ABS sensor mount. I simply cable tied them to the duct hose, close to the original position. I think it is an improvement as the wires are now supported as well.

The only issue is that the DRM ducts use a larger hose than the LG spindle ducts can accommodate. I just used some tape to build up the diameter of the spindle duct. There must be a better way - I just hope the tape has high temp adhesive.

I will be doing some fiberglass repair to the fender well, but I will wait until I am real sure I have the location correct.

Hope this note helps when you prep for your install. It was a challenge for this computer geek, but in the end, worth it.

I guess the "Bone Stock" sig needs to change...
 

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kmagvette said:
The only issue is that the DRM ducts use a larger hose than the LG spindle ducts can accommodate. I just used some tape to build up the diameter of the spindle duct. There must be a better way - I just hope the tape has high temp adhesive..
The way I did mine was to use some 3" ID SCAT tubing from an aircraft supply vendor and run it inside the DRM 3.5" tubing. The 3" tubing simply move within the 3.5" tubing when the wheels turn. Have done numerous track events with this setup with good results. :coo:
 

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Nice write-up. I had similar experiences. I buggered up a couple of things but basically accomplished the job.

If anyone is interested, I took a buh-zillion pictures of mine - mostly after the project was done: http://65.18.133.252/gallery/Z06brakes
:cheers:
 

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dmtnt said:
The way I did mine was to use some 3" ID SCAT tubing from an aircraft supply vendor and run it inside the DRM 3.5" tubing. The 3" tubing simply move within the 3.5" tubing when the wheels turn. Have done numerous track events with this setup with good results. :coo:

without a stop the 3" will go to deep and cut air flow from the DRM duct.

Tape will melt if built up on LGM spindle duct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, it didn't take long before I had to change the ducting to the Orange Aircraft ducting. I was at the track and got this nasty squeeling-grinding combo noise. The metal coil wire of the DRM ducting popped through the duct, unraveled and, of course, found it's way between the caliper and rotor.

To attach the new ducting to the DRM duct, all I did was build up the thickness of the hose with race tape until I could barely force it in. I then used some additional tape around the hose and DRM duct for added security. It stays put. It also made the attachment to the LG spindle ducts super clean.
 

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As a suggestion to Lou:

extend the "backing plate" of the spindle duct lower, such that it can form a radiant heat-shield for the lower ball joint. This will go a long way in preserving the boot, and ultimately the life-span of the lower ball-joint in severe-duty applications.

Cheers,
-Bowtieman
 

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Bowtieman said:
As a suggestion to Lou:

extend the "backing plate" of the spindle duct lower, such that it can form a radiant heat-shield for the lower ball joint. This will go a long way in preserving the boot, and ultimately the life-span of the lower ball-joint in severe-duty applications.

Cheers,
-Bowtieman

Did that to mine a few years ago. I went to the hardware store and bought a F/S sign which was aluminum. Cut a few round pieces and sandwhiched them around the LG duct and pop riveted them. Works well plus I still have the joint wrapped. I'll look for a picture later.
 
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