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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just purchased both of the cooler kits to be placed in the rear brake ducts. Not much in that way of instructions for the wiring parts. Does anyone have any mounting or wiring advice. I am unsure about exactly where to bring the wires up/through and where in the panel to source the power from.

Thanks for any info/experience.
 

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I think that's where the Phoenix guys put theirs. Talk to Joe Aqualante at Phoenix and he can help you with the specifics.
[email protected] (800) 217-7870

MTI racing here in Atlanta put mine on, but that's not where Reese mounted mine. He put mine in the large rear lower comparment in the 'trunk.' It works great.
 

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Don't have the DRM setup but can help with the wiring.

There's a few different spots to bring wires into the car. I think one is behind the passenger seat; do a search and you should find it. I drilled holes into the trunk, but I have a different setup - mine are where the mufflers used to be. From there, I ran the wires through the car, out the grommet in the passenger footwell, into the engine compartment and hooked them up to a relay directly off the battery. Wired the relays to a switch panel in the ashtray. Under the passenger floorboard, there are a couple of hot leads, I used the switched power lead to operate the relays. Think it was the yellow wire, do a search to be sure.
 

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Clay said:
I just purchased both of the cooler kits to be placed in the rear brake ducts. Not much in that way of instructions for the wiring parts. Does anyone have any mounting or wiring advice. I am unsure about exactly where to bring the wires up/through and where in the panel to source the power from.

Thanks for any info/experience.
You are in luck. Just did mine this past weekend! :D Only took me about 12 hours of work. :pp: Hope I can save you some time.

Wiring specifically: I went from where the battery lead connects to the underhood fuse box (directly in front of battery). Added in line fuse right there. Drilled small hole (~3/32) though firewall behind battery, ran under dash over to ashtray (removed, this is where switch goes), along, drivers side of console, behind seat, then drilled small hole though wheelwell (~3/32), and down to pump. Pump grounded right to it's mount.

I'll post more later. Gotta go. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the info guys. 99Cobra, did you rivet the pumps directly to the frame? Thats what it looks like in the photo sent with the coolers. Also, what did you bolt the coolers down to? Did you have to fabricate brackets for these?

Thanks again.
 

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How to install DRM cooler

Clarifications from prior post:

1) Probably took closer to 10 hours but shouldn't have taken more than 7
2) I was talking about the trans cooler only, not the diff.
3) As I described the elctrical run, I should note the wire was completely hidden in the interior. Easy to tock under dash, console, carpet, etc.

Install info / notes / sequence:

Other notes:Use plumbers nylon tape at brass fittings, blue thread lock elsewhere; directions are good for which fittings to use where, etc.
1) With the DRM kit, you will need to separately get wire, inline fuse and fasteners. I used 14 guage, 20 amp, and 1/4" x 1" bolts with washers and locknuts (7 sets, 5 for the top brackets for heat exchanger, 2 for bottom bracket at heat exchanger) and #14 x 1 (6 total, 2 for bottom bracket for heat exchanger at frame, 4 to mount pump to frame)
2) The DRM kit indeed goes into where the brake ducts are in front of the friver side rear wheel well, eliminating duct - I don't think the loss of the rear duct(s) will be a big issue - I may try to figure a way to re-duct later. I also plan to take out the other rear duct for equivalent brake pad temps / balance. You have to remove wheel / wheel well to get started.
3) To avoid head scratching about brackets - the top of the heat exchanger is held on by a 2 piece bracket - one L shaped, one straight. The L mounts to the metal lip about 2/3 of the way up the (frame / sheet metal) side of the wheel wheel, the straight piece to it and to the exchanger. The other V shaped bracket mounts to the bottom of the exchanger and the frame.
4) The crude diagram showing hose routing that DRM gves you with their pics is a little confusing. they show the nipples on the exchanger facing back, they really face forward, other than that the diagram is accurate.
5) Hoses: the shortest supplied hose goes from pump "out" to bottom nipple of exchanger, the middle length hose goes from exchanger top nipple to T that installs at trans fill, the longest hose from trans drain to pump "in". The longest hose had to be cut, the others didn't. Note of sourse you need to use the supplied fittings, too, not just the T I mentioned
6) Cutting braided hose: I had to cut the long one, and a small cut to clean up the end of one of the other hoses. Cutting properly and installing hose ends / fitting was a bitch and I wasted time and got frustrated til I figured it out:
a) Use electrical tape to wrap the braided hose very tightly.
b) Clamp hose with 2 quick clamps (I used the carpenter clamps with pads on them) to bench / table withing 1/8 inch or less of each other
c) Cut hose between clamps with hacksaw with fresh blade
d) Leave/reinstall a small amount of electrical tape (too much and you increase diameter, and can't install end) at end, install supplied hose end, with pressure and rotation, install second piece of end
7) Other notes:Use plumbers nylon tape at brass fittings, blue thread lock elsewhere; directions are good for which fittings to use where, etc.

8) Install Sequence
a) Cut top right corner off integral bracket on exchanger (test fit and you will see that without doing this, it protudes into wheel weel a bit). Use hacksaw, don't cut into exchanger proper!
b) Bolt bottom bracket to exchanger
c) Hold exchanger in place (against duct), mark for holes in frame for bottom bracket
d) Drill 2 holes for self tappers
e) Install 2 hose ends, install 2 hoses to exchanger (but fill it with ATF first)
f) Install exchanger with bottom bracket with the 2 self tappers
g) Next to install top bracket(s) to metal lip (described above) / exchanger:
i) Attach top L bracket to top straight bracket (1 bolt)
ii) To install this bracket assembly to metal lip (described above) requires drilling 2 holes in metal lip (I clamped L bracket into place with vice grips, in proper place where straight bracket was aligned with exchanger), then installing the 2 bolts
iii) Attach straight bracket to exchanger. Drill one extra hole into bracket thru to exchanger. Install 2 bolts
h) Install L shped fittings to pump; Hold pump in place (make sure you are inside where wheel well will cover it) mark holes for self tappers
i) Install 4 self tappers for pump (don't forget the supplied rubber grommets)
j) Install short hose to pump "out"
k) Install other hose end on medium hose, route back then in to between crossmember and halfshaft, turn to front towards trans fill.
l) Measure length needed for long hose. Route next to hose just meantioned but continue along cross member to trans drain. Remove and cut to proper length (see hints above)
m) Install hose end (the u shaped one), reroute, attach at pump.
n) Remove electric at fill plug, remove plug. Install T / brass fitting at fill (I left this pointing down a bit towards rear to allow for easy / full fill). Install hose end fitting to T.
o) Install brass fitting to hose end fitting at end going to drain plug. Test your quickness here! Remove drain plug and quickly install brass fitting! (probably use a pan, you are not that quick!!)
p) Remove plug at top of pump, fill pump with ATF.
q) Go back to T, fill open end with ATF until full (you'll need hand pump for ATF here). Reinstall plug, electric pickup.
r) Do electric (see preiovious post)
s) Reinstall wheelwell, wheel Done!! :coo:

Start, looks for leaks. Go for a drive!!

.
 

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Clay said:
Thanks for the info guys. 99Cobra, did you rivet the pumps directly to the frame? Thats what it looks like in the photo sent with the coolers. Also, what did you bolt the coolers down to? Did you have to fabricate brackets for these?

Thanks again.
See my long post, but if they didn't send you brackets, they will. They forgot the first time with me. You've got to watch that Randy Rippie! (actually he's OK!, they just need better directions - maybe I ought to send them these posts - but the kit's good.)

Looks like you got the diff cooler too....You'll be way cool! :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
99Cobra, Thanks alot for the highly detailed instructions. That will help alot with the install. Your right, they did not include any brackets with mine, I will call them tomorrow.

Thanks again
 
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