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I found some info on the dry sump in the new ZO6.

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Corvette Z06 Dry Sump Oiling System

The Corvette Z06’s LS7 engine has a dry sump oiling system designed to keep the engine fully lubricated during the high cornering loads the Corvette Z06 is capable of producing. Ths LS7’s dry sump system was developed and tested on racetracks in the U.S. and Europe, including Germany’s famed Nürburgring. And while dry sump oiling is common in racing cars, the Corvette Z06 is one of just a handful of production vehicles -- and the only production Corvette -- to incorporate such a high-performance oiling system.

What is a Dry Sump Oiling System?
Most automotive engines use a wet sump sytem, in which all of the engine oil is stored inside the crankcase in the oil pan. In a dry sump oiling system, engine oil is stored in a reservoir external to the engine, so the crankcase contains only a minimal amount of oil at all times.

What are the Advantages of a Dry Sump System?
In an engine with a conventional wet sump oil pan, the oil can slosh away from the oil pump pickup tube during high dynamic maneuvers like cornering, braking and accelerating. This starves the engine of oil, causing bearing damage or catastrophic engine failure.

The dry sump system stores engine oil in a tall and narrow oil reservoir. This shape prevents oil from sloshing away from, or uncovering, the oil pickup, even under extremely high dynamic maneuvers. The dry sump system enables increases to the dynamic capabilities of the vehicle, which is why racing cars and exotic sports cars use this type of oil system.

Additionally, oil aeration is lower in a dry sump system, because the oil spends less time in the presence of the crankcase windage. Oil delivered to the bearings is typically superior to that of a wet sump system.

Finally, without the need for a conventional sump, the engine can be placed lower in the vehicle, effectively lowering the center of gravity of the vehicle.

How Does a Dry Sump System Work?
In the LS7 engine, two oil pump sets (scavenge pump and supply pump) are located in the same housing on the nose of the crankshaft. The location is common with the oil pump in other small block engines.

The scavenge pump removes engine oil and air from the sump and pumps both to an external reservoir for conditioning and storage.

The oil is directed to the top of the reservoir, where it is allowed to spill onto a spiral-shaped baffle. Crankcase gases and air are separated from the oil and are returned by the PCV system to the engine, where they are burned. The deaerated and conditioned oil collects in the bottom of the reservoir, ready for use.

The supply pump draws the conditioned oil from the reservoir, pressurizes it, and feeds it to the engine by way of the oil filter and oil cooler. After the oil passes through the engine, it again flows into the sump to be returned by the scavenge pump to the reservoir once again.

Checking the Oil Level
The engine must be warmed up. Cold oil will not give a correct oil level reading.

After the engine is warmed up to at least 175°F (80°C), shut off the engine. Checking the oil with the engine running will result in an incorrect reading.

Wait for 5 minutes (but not more than 20 minutes), to allow the oil to drain and settle.

Pull the dipstick with the yellow handle from the reservoir, and clean it with a lint-free cloth. Then push it back in all the way until it stops. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and note the oil level on the crosshatched area.

An oil level within the crosshatched area is normal. If the level is below the crosshatched area, add 1 quart (0.96 L) of 5W30 Mobil 1 synthetic oil through the black oil reservoir fill cap (fig. 6) and take another reading.

TIP: Do not overfill the reservoir, as this may result in excessive oil consumption. Oil levels above the crosshatched area may degrade lubrication system performance.

Oil Change Procedure
Remove the two drain plugs from the engine oil pan. One is located on the left side of the oil pan near the oil filter. This plug drains the small amount of residual oil from the engine oil pan, approximately 1 quart (0.96 L). The other drain plug is located on the front of the oil pan. This plug drains the external reservoir and hose assembly. Also remove the engine oil filter.

Once the oil has been drained from the engine and reservoir, replace the engine oil filter with a new PF48 oil filter and tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb ft).

Replace both oil drain plugs and tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb ft).

Fill the oil through the oil fill cap in the top of the dry sump reservoir. The total service fill, with a dry filter, is 8 quarts (7.57 L) of 5W30 Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil.

Replace the oil fill cap and start the engine. Let it run at idle for at least 15 seconds to circulate the fresh engine oil through the lubrication system. (This is similar to running an engine after a radiator fill, to purge air from the system.)

Check the oil level according to the instructions above. The oil change is now complete.

TIP: The owner’s manual may contain a slightly different procedure, which calls for filling 7 quarts, running the engine then shutting off, and finally filling 1 additional quart. This procedure may be used, although it is not necessary.

TIP: There is a cap on the right valve cover under the decorative cover. Attempting to remove this cap can break the retaining tabs, requiring removal of the valve cover to retrieve broken pieces. Under no circumstances should you attempt to fill the engine oil system through this cap.
 

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A dry sump system is pain to work with. Ferrari has had one for years and basically, you do not check your oil while buying gas like most of us are used to doing. The five minute wait is real! I usually check mine when I get home form a drive. Good news is that Chevrolet put a dip stick on the system (good thinking Dave Hill!), unlike Ferrari which has a metal filler cap with the dipstick attached...rag required to keep from getting your hand burnt! On the 355 it is back in the corner which makes it even harder to get!

The explanation is exactly correct on how to do an oil level check and the procedures are the same for Ferrari. Same with the oil change procedure as well. You now drain from two areas to get the oil out of the car when you change it.

One other thing that is good to do that was not mentioned is to fill the new filter with fresh oil before installing as that also helps get the oil into the system faster.

Great read on the dry sump system...Thanks for posting it!
 

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Dry Sump refill.

I concur.

On refill I would recommend:
- fill the new oil filter and install it.
- fill the oil reservoir tank with the balance of the 8qt. fill.

On running magnetic drain plugs:
- I would run a magnetic drain plug in the left side pan position which drains the pan.
- I would NOT run a magnetic drain plug in the right/front position that drains the reservoir and return line. This is a relatively high flow point and is under scavange from the 2nd stage pressure pump. A magnetic drain plug here could accumulate debri; which could then break off when it got big enough. This could then block or reduce line flow, ruin the pump or enter the engine....sorta like a big clot to the brain stroke.
 

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Excellent info..thanks!

This is another example of how we can all learn from other members. :thumb:
 

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My 911/993 has a dry sump, and it's a pain to change the oil.

One must remove the passenger side rear tire and fender well cover in order to get to the oil tank (..remove drain plug) and large oil filter (..change).

Next, remove oil from crankcase by removing drain plug. In order to keep oil from splashing all over the exhaust components, I rig up a deflector out of a used water bottle to direct the oil downwards; it works very well.

Finally, there is a small oil filter on the block which needs to be changed. However, one must remove an oil line in order to get a clean shot at the bottom of the filter with a filter-wrench.

Now fill 'er up with 10.5 quarts of 15-50 A3/B3 and you're good to go.

To check the oil, the engine must be hot and running. The dipstick is located in the corner of the passenger-side near the 'trunk'-hinge. Pull it out and wipe/view as usual.

It's all worth it though as the 993 is a great car; it's one part of the ownership experience. :cheers:
 

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Hi there,
This information is in the latest information from GMtechlink, for service technicians.
I am really wondering why the oil change procedure is different in the owners manual, then what they tell us to do at the dealership.
Weird, sounds incredibly similar to the column lock schematics and description for the c6, very confusing.
Allthebest, c4c5
 

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Good info and great detail. Most high end N/A drag race type engine's use DS system's. Pro Stock and Comp mostly.

D.J.
 

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Good information. Good to see C4C5Specialist posting as well. I can't remember the last time you posted. Maybe because I have been hanging out in the C6 Z06 section for the past year.

GOLD72

I just noticed that this is my "427" th post!!!!! ;) An omen for my near future. :yeadog:
 
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