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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We've had a few of our A4/M6/M12 differential strut customers call to ask how to adjust the 4 differential strut rods on our product because they were confused about a couple of things, so we wanted to publically post the strut rod adjustment procedures here so that everyone has a chance to reveiw them.

First and formost- Please follow ALL of the installation instructions we include with each kit EXACTLY as we describe, otherwise you'll assume the risk of differential damage/gear whine if over-tightening of the strut rod group occurs. Some folks have called us and stated that they thought "since some is good, more must be better" when tightening the strut rods! This obviously deviates from our original installation instructions and once they did, they soon found their gear sets whining shortly after and some had even broken the actual case of the differential itself by severely over-tightening the strut rods over and above what we specify. DO NOT DO THIS!

Here is an exerpt from our installation instructions regarding proper differential strut rod adjustment procedures and sequence:

Strut Rod Pre-Load Adjustment-
Please follow the pre-load adjustment instructions EXACTLY as we describe here to avoid any possible differential/transmission damage with this products installation.
1. Adjust all four strut rods to a static ZERO-lash first by HAND until they are JUST snug, making sure they are PULLING THEMSELVES TOGETHER during your adjustment procedure.
2. The proper adjustment sequence is: pass. upper right, driver upper left, driver lower left, pass. lower right.
3. After ZERO-lash adjustment is complete, tighten each respective strut rod IN SEQUENCE 1 full turn past ZERO-lash in ½-turn tightening increments, in sequence until 1 full turn is reached.
DO NOT adjust the pre-load rods tighter than 1 full turn past ZERO-lash or differential damage/gear whine WILL occur. Once ZERO-lash has been completed for each rod, DO NOT further adjust to ZERO-lash as you proceed through the adjustment sequence even though pre-load rod may “feel” loose before final tightening is completed. These steps are ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL!
4. Lock down each respective pre-load rod jam nut at each Hiem joint stud.
Follow this step for all four main strut rods in prescribed sequence and when you are complete, each respective pre-load strut rod should have tightened up smoothly and evenly.


If you've recently installed our differential strut and the differential whines shortly after, you've over-tightened the strut rods and we suggest you loosen them and re-adjust them again properly...

You can rest at ease in knowing that we performed a LOT of engineering on this product before it was ever released to the public over two years ago and we've traveled down every conceivable road that you may/or may not encounter in the future regarding it's proper installation and/or use in a multitude of applications. When it's installed/adjusted properly, the kit is VERY effective at preventing differential/transmission damage in HP use with NO negative effects on the driveline in any fashion.

Hope this helps for some of you folks, so motor on! :usa: :z:


Best Regards,
DTE
 

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Phil, can I make a suggestion?

As I'm sure you already know, if a Z is running a 3" exhaust, the tranny/diff brace does not allow enough room for one of the pipes. It's not a big deal, my tuner used a plasma cutter and carved out enough of one of the braces to allow for the pipe size.

You might want to post a "how to" thread for those people running 3" exhaust pipes.

I'm very happy with the brace so far and with a slight alteration, having 3" exhaust is not a problem.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
A few batches ago, we did in fact make some slight adjustments to the trans./diff. brackets so our product would not interfere with 3" exhaust systems and this last run has even further material removed from the affected area to assist our customers.

The problem is that there are a number of different designs of 3" exhaust systems out there and any one of them all have a multitude of different positions they can be adjusted to for a given application, in addition to multiple adjustment joints where the pipes slide together. Therefore, it's nearly impossible to design a bracket that would fit *all* scenarios without sacrificing durability/integrity of our product's design from too much material removal.

Many times when some one calls us on the phone about interference issues with their 3" exhaust, we usually talk them through exhaust pipe adjustments while we're on the phone that provides ample clearance for everything that's under the car, including our product. It's just a matter of small adjustments made to multiple locations that does the trick, rather than trying to get *all* of the adjustment from just one location.

With this latest revision completed and produced, there should be no more issues regarding 3" exhaust clearance that over-axle pipe/muffler adjustments can't take care of. :)


Best Regards,
DTE
 

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Great, I must have bought mine before the alterations were done.
As I said, the cutting wasn't hard to do and we didn't have to cut deep enough into the brace to structurally damage it, so all is well.

Thanks for the feed back!

Mike
 
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