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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've installed the E-code lamp housings with the stock H4 lamps. The light output with stock H4's is worse imho. I'm sure the e-code pattern will allow me to put out more light with the higher rated bulbs while not pissing off on coming drivers.... :cool:

Has anybody installed 80/80w Hella's, in the E-code housing? The guys @ autobulbdepot said the stock harness was OK with 80watts. I've ordered the bulbs, but I'm hesitant to burn down my car.:eek: I'm hoping the lamps fuses will protect the car, but wonder how smart it is to put 80watts on the stock harness?

Bob
 

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Bob, you will be safe with the 80 watt bulbs and stock wiring, I personally would get the 90/130 from Redshift or another supplier, I have seen this setup and it works great, in fact if my HID's do not start working better (it's my fault) I will go with the E lenses and 90/130 bulbs, you need a HD harness with the higher wattage bulbs
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hcvone,
Thanks for the input. I hope to have the 80/80w's today, and installed & aimed by the weekend. You'll see a post if either love or hate them. :D

What's up with the HID's? I considered them, but opt'd for the lower $ option as they aren't legal here in CA and would feel real bad if I'd have to remove them.

Bob
 

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somebody please 'splain to me what e-code bulbs are and how much they cost?

so 80w is ok with stock wiring, but 90w is too much? how much of a pain is it to install new heavy guage wiring for the lights?

I want some, whatever they are....help me, I'm mod crazy:p
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Lambinator,
E-codes headlamps are european spec headlamps. The only have one dual element bulb, not dual bulbs as the domestic (DOT) lamps. The ones I bought are made of glass (not plastic. like stock). The light pattern is much different than the domestic, the verticle axis has a very sharp cutoff, puttting the light on the road where you need it (supposedly). With the sharp vertical cutoff as you approach something (maybe a van?) you will notice that the top half of the van is very dark, and the bottom is nicely lit. This has the advantage of keeping the bright portion of the beam out of on-coming drivers eyes, also allowing you to increase your wattage & not blind others. I wouldn't run e-codes without higher wattage bulbs (imho) as you loose some visability of things higher in their focus area. Fitchner Chevy sells them for ~ $35 ea with stock H4 bulbs.

Hope this helps:-?
Bob
 

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We made a HD harness to run the HID and 130 watt high beams, with my harness when the high beams are on the HID's are on as well, I will tell you that when a car flashes me the high beams and I "return the favor" they will be seeing dots for a while. I do not know how HID light can be illegal in Cal. because many cars come stock with them from the factory. Installing a HD harness is not that hard and should no take more than an hour.
 

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Rwdyryd said:
Hcvone,
Thanks for the input. I hope to have the 80/80w's today, and installed & aimed by the weekend. You'll see a post if either love or hate them. :D

What's up with the HID's? I considered them, but opt'd for the lower $ option as they aren't legal here in CA and would feel real bad if I'd have to remove them.

Bob
Bob, I am trying to do something with my harness and all (4) lights on when the high beams are used, the manufacturer said it could not be done but I think we can make it work, I will know soon and may even go with HID's on both low and high beams, and have all (4) HID's on when the high beams are used, wow that would be bright. ;)
 

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I installed the E-Codes with high wattage bulbs and pre-fabbed plug & play wiring kit about 6 months ago and I love em.:yeadog:

JIm
 

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For those thinking about doing their own harness, I can confirm it is a significant amount of work. I used 10 guage wire with relays and heavy duty (yellow) solderless connectors which are the completely insulated style (no metal exposed). I also double shrink wrapped all connections. The in-line fuses are mounted beside the battery and the relays are mounted below the right side headlight, where there is a sizable cavity which is relatively protected from the elements.

While working with 10 guage wire is a bit of a hassle, the job is made a little easier by using a professional "Jaws" type wire stripper and a ratcheting crimping tool which double crimps the connectors. No soldering was necessary.

The headlight sockets are heavy duty style with 14 guage wire pigtails about 6 inches long. These connect to the 10 guage cable via male and female solderless connectors. Using light blue heat shrink here allows you to identify the cables (HI, LO, GRND).

The job took about 6 hours including the e-code headlight exchange. I'm using Hella 100/80 bulbs at present with a great improvement over stock lighting. I believe the full power delivery plus the ability to move to 130/100 watt bulbs makes the heavier wiring project worth the effort.

Make sure you purchase an E8 external Torx socket (1/4 " drive) to use for adjusting the headlights. The internal T10 holes in the end of the adjusting shafts tend to shred when using a screwdriver. The outside of the shafts are actually a T40 internal Torx pattern which is an E8 external socket. This was not immediately obvious when I started the job.

Hope this helps.
 
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