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Discussion Starter #1
When mounting an oil cooler vertical should you run the oil in from the bottom and or the opposite? What about a horizontal mounting? Shoud it be right side up or upside down? Is one mounting position prefered?

How tight should AN fittings be tightened?
 

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General engine oil cooler rule as in all coolers is "TOP - IN - HOT", "BOTTOM - OUT - COLD".
It also depends on how many pass, if it is straight thru or manifold/Parallel, etc.
Always mount in good airflow and have relief behind cooler.
Fins should be parallel with air flow
Fans should pull air thru rather than push air thru.

Fittings can be under tightened and over tightened.
Overtightening will crush ferrule and ruin fitting.
Always use tubing wrenches
Min./Max. Torque Specs depend on Size and Material.
Usual material are Brass, Aluminum. Steel and Stainless Steel.
Titanium is sometimes used.
Stainless Steel or Titanium should be used for brake lines.
Most race fittings are Aluminum.

There are 3 methods to tighten fittings: Actual Torque, "Flat #" Method,
Alternate Universal "Flat" Method.

Following is a description of the 3 methods and Min./Max. Torque Specs for ALUMINUM fittings ONLY.

http://www.hrpworld.com/client_images/ecommerce/client_39/cat_header/26_4.pdf
 

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You can drive yourself nuts with all the details bud, but the bottom line on all this is mount the thing good and tight and use some 'thread tape' or other thread lock/anti-leak. As a general rule, if it's leaking, tighten it a big more. If you mount it and the oil is cool (between 190-240), then you've done a good job and it's working.

I've got mine mounted on the front of the radiator (gets hit with air first) and it's mounted with both openings on the bottom...which is probably not preferred, but it still works very well. Most of the folks that I've seen (professional shops) mount it with both openings on the side with the 'hot oil' going into the top opening as DJ said.

Some of this all depends on what type of tools you have and the room you have to work with. Keep it simple though - mount it securely so it gets hit with direct cool air...with no leaks and watch your oil temp gauge to see what the temps are. Make sure to watch your oil level too at first to ensure the cooler if full and you're not starving your engine. It may take a few runs to get the cooler totally full of oil. I also put some thin padding strips between the cooler and whatever it touches (normally the radiator) to ensure it doesn't rub. Good luck!
 

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Like Chris, I use teflon tape on my threads and haven't had any leakage around my cooler line joints. I tightened mine to a nice snug fit, maybe 20-25 ft lbs. Not much, they are aluminum. :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for you help guys. I got it all finished.

One more question if you know. Is the port toward the rear of the block, on the adapter (a DRM piece), the send line?
 

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SR3 said:
Thanks for you help guys. I got it all finished.

One more question if you know. Is the port toward the rear of the block, on the adapter (a DRM piece), the send line?
I used to know this, but don't remember and don't have my shop manual with me. I think the oil comes out the forward port and return to the rear port, but I'm not 100% sure.

One think you may want to look at before you bolt it all up is whether the temp probe is ported to engine outlet (hot) or cooler return (cooler). Mine is routed to cooler return. I'd rather they had machined it to engine outlet so I had a better idea of true oil temp.
 
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