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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I just got the Dynatechs done and everything is tweaked, routed, aligned, cleaned, and test driven. I would not say this was an easy install, but I couldn't spend a lot of continuous time with it either. I would say that the toughest part is making sure the O2 harnesses are routed away from the hot stuff...this wasn't made any easier by the mis-labeling of the l/s and r/s intermediate tubes, and I spent a couple hours screwing around trying to get the l/s rear harness to STTRETCHHH...but I finally realized the issue and took it apart, put it back together, and then it worked. Just remember the r/s rear O2 bung is always closer to the front of the car. The other thing I don't like is that there's only about 1/8" between the r/s front O2 sensor and the tunnel plate, in this case a SS Elite Engineering ceramic-coated piece, and let me tell you, this plate DOES NOT BEND OR DENT, with a 1# hammer and dull chisel, a pneumatic impact hammer, whatever. I taped a "bite pad" between the O2 sensor and the plate and so far, no "bite", but I can visualize dropping the clutch and getting enough motor mount flex to suddenly make the sensor whack the plate.

I was a little worried because I had a strong burning rubber smell during the maiden voyage...no smoke...and when I put it back on the KwikLift there was zero evidence of anything burnt. The evaporator drains down onto the r/s fr O2 harness and onto the r/s collector so I'll have another look at that.

The tips are pretty well aligned- about 1/8" higher on the r/s.

Anyway...I've got the stock TIs on, and it's only a little louder than stock unless you get into it, then the thing really howls as it passes through 3800 RPM. It feels like it winds out quicker, yet it also feels like it has more low-mid grunt. Pulling from 3000 RPM in 3rd is very strong. So I'd say SOTP, it's quicker and has more power.

:cheers:
 

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I completely understand the effort. Now it's time to tune it!

:cheers:
 

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Congrats on your header install. Nothing like the good feeling you get from a DIY install. :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks. One of the benefits of DIY on something like this is that no one else would ever get it the way I want it the first time, and at the very least I'd have all kinds of questions about why something about the install had to be done the way it was done. I'm happy with the install and the results. I don't think I'll get it tuned until a cam goes in- it runs very well and no lights are on. :cheers:
 

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I had no lights for about 300 miles. Then I spent a day beating the piss out of it on a road course and , now I get the low efficency code once in awhile. It seams to come on when you are putting around. If the rpms are up and you drive kinda agressive it does not seam to get codes.

I will get it tuned out some day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
200 miles so far. I'll hate it if a light comes on. I probably wouldn't waste the $$ on a Predator. I have a couple tuners within 50 miles. From what I see the hand held tuners are pretty limited. Either get LS1 or EFI1 (assuming one has a laptop- I do) or get it dyno'd.
 

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I got a light about 150 miles after my Dynatech install, I had to have the rear O2 sensors turned off. Alway ran good and sounds awesome at WFO.

Chas.
 
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