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Discussion Starter #1
I installed a Ripper last week with the stock shift knob. I had ordered a different shift knob, but it had yet to arrive. I drove the car and was amazed with how much drivetrain noise I could hear with the new shifter. I loved the feel of the ripper, but the noise was not acceptible. I then used electrical tape and wrapped it several times around the exposed steel of the shifter's shaft hpng to deaden the noise. This helped alot, but there was still sifnificant noise. Finally, yesterday, my anodized, solid core Z06 emblem shift knob arrived from West Coast Corvette. I screwed it on with one layer of electritrical tape around the bottom threads only to secure the fit. It fit extremely tight, I don't think I could get another quarter turn. Amazing!!!! No noise whatsoever now. It makes no more noise tan the stock shifter, plus it's a ripper. Perfect fix for this problem. Plus it looks cool and the kno fels like it is one peice with the rest of the shifter, no subtle looseness like the stocker. Hope this helps whoever has a noise problem.
 

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Snap some pics for us.
I am still slowly assessing the shift knobs out there.

I am also thinking about a different shifter, but only because I want a shorter one. I don't want one that is noisy. I will keep tall over loud.

chris
 

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Hey Steve: I have the same setup, less any tape. I have been very pleased with the lack of noise. Nice chioces....
 

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As soon as I changed mine the noise was gone.
 

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Steve,

Pretty sure I asked this somewhere, but now I can't find where... Hmm... So, sorry if I didn't see the answer the first time. But how do you ensure that the emblem on the WCC shifter knob is straight? This knob isn't heald on by set screws, is it? If not, and it just screws on to the shaft, then I'd think there'd be some way that you don't tighten the knob past the Z06 emblem being straight (but just don't know how).

Also, is the knob shape comfortable?

Thanks!

-Kirk
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
There is a plastic piece up inside the shifter that makes screwing it on difficult which in turn allows you to stop turning when the logo is straight as this plastic piece gets wedged tight in between the shifter shaft and the knob. Also, I wrapped one layer of electrical tape around the bottom threads of the shifter to create the same effect. Therefore, when I screwed the knob on, it was extremely tight for about a full revolution of turning. This allowed me to put the logo in the correct position without it being loose whatsoever. In fact, it is extremely tight. I am not worried at all about the logo moving as it is so tight. It does take some elbow grease to screw it on since the fit is so tight. I was skeptical as well when the knob got here as to whether or not it would line up correctly, but it did relatively easily. I was supposed to receive a bolt with the knob I believe to screw on before I put the knob on. This would have allowed me to tighten the bolt up to the knob and lock it in to place like that. It ended up being better the way I did it though, because there is no unsightly bolt on the bottom of the knob. Also, there is almost no threading on the shifter past where the knob screwed down to. So the bolt may not have fit. It looks awesome, it feels really good too. The metal is more sturdy so it makes the vehicle feel more solid. I highly recommend it. There is no subtle wobble like with the stock shifter. Also, any noise was completely eliminated with the new knob.
 

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SteveYelloZ06 said:
Kirk,
I was thinking of getting the TPIS Long tube headers too. How do you like them? Noticeable power gain? How about the noise?
Steve,

I had my Blackwing already installed when I did the headers (and, i'd recommend an intake to get more air in, since you're moving the exhaust out more efficiently with the headers), so maybe my power increases are a combo of the two. But, YES, I noticed a SIZEABLE increase in mid-to-high range HP. In fact, I almost wrecked my car on the way home from the installation by getting silly with the go-pedal in 3rd gear. :)

As far as the sound goes, it's just great. I still have the stock exhaust, and really think that I'll keep it. The car sounds pretty similar to stock with at idle and at low throttle. But crank it to WOT, and the exhaust note is deep and loud. It'll never sound like my old '93 Cobra (with Flowmasters), but then again, I wouldn't want it to. Instead, this sounds much more exotic and appropriate to the car. It's great.

If you're thinking about the TPIS, I'd just get it done. I don't think you'll be disappointed!

-Kirk
 

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Think this might help?

Steve,
Think some of that foam pipe insullation (it would be hidden under the boot) might help on the noise issue on the Ripper?
That stuff is split down the middle, slide it on the shaft and then wrap it with some electrical tape. Anyone tried this or something similar:-?
:cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I am sure that would help. Anything that touches the shaft will deaden the noise. Certainly pipe insulation will. I originally installed my ripper with just what was in the box with the stock shift knob. It was OBNOXIOUSLY LOUD. I couldn't even stand it. I then wrapped about 40 rotations of electrical tape around it and it helped some. When the solid metal knob went on though it was perfectly quiet. I consider it mandatory to get an aftermarket knob with an aftermarket shifter. I think the main reason my knob decreased the sound so much is due to the fact that it fit on so snug. As opposed to the loose fitting stock knob.

Kirk- Thanks for the header info. I have an aftermarket intake already, so I think I will get the headers. I'll let you know.
 

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Hey Steve,

Any PICS of that WCC shifter knob INSTALLED in your car? I'd like to see how it looks on the Ripper...

Thanks!

-Kirk
 

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Thanks Brian

If in the not to distant future you have your console apart again, would you take a pic of your setup?
And glad to hear that that clutch out noise is normal:)
:cheers:
 

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A bettor option than electrical tape would be teflon tape. It could be applied over the entire length of the threads since it is so much thinner.
 

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Agreed.. I applied teflon tape over the entire length of threads and only added the electrical to really tighten things up as I screwed it down over the last 1/2".
 

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Factory knob & Ripper

Whats the recipe for the Ripper and the stock knob? I remember JC suggested some claylike Crayola stuff to fill the void in the knob, I think I also read about rubberbands in the hollow also. I currently have the Hardbar, but would like to try the stock knob too. Any other suggestions?
Thanks:cheers:
 

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I was leery of putting the B&M Ripper because of all the complaints about noise. I went ahead and installed it today and it took about 60 min. I did a lot of research on installing the shifter, so when I actually did it I had no problems or questions. Then I installed the Autotecnica shift knob, carbon fiber with leather.

Let me first say that I love the way the Ripper shifts, very short and very positive. I had missed 3rd two times with the stock POS. After install I went out and ran it hard with no missed shifts. It was like I had been using it for years.

Having said all of that, I started to notice a lot of drive train noise, then a rattle on hard acceleration at 3k to 4k. I also notice a rattle on deceleration at 3k to 2k. I started moving the shifter around and noticed the noise would ether go away or get worse. Then I pulled up on the shifter and the noise would stop altogether in every situation.

I was thinking maybe the bottom part of the shifter shaft might be a little too long and unnecessarily pushing down on the linkage. I was going to try to use some gasket material as shim between the shifter base and the shifter gasket to raise the shifter a little bit.

Has anyone tried this?
And if so did it work?
I’m I barking up the wrong tree here?

Thanks for any help.
 
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