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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did two track events with a total of 20-25 laps, the Z has about 3000 miles on it and the front rotors are shot and brake pads are to the metal. The front brakes got so damn hot they discolored the center of the wheels....total junk components. My 911 has a whole year of track events on stock rotors and Hawk pads without any problems. Took the car to the dealer, roughly $475 for new 02 pads all around and turn all rotors. They will not cover anything with warrenty including the wheels. Really ruined my day... I guess if you want to play with the big boys you gotta pay! Oh yea, dealer is going to lower the car roughly 1.25" I think that is all I can get away with so the tires will not rub in hard g turns.
 

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As I Have posted before....

....the stock brakes ARE the Weakest Link.

I AutoX heavily Local/Regional, National Tour, Pro Solo and Solo I track time occasionally. The stock class in solo limits me otherwise I'd pay the money and have Brembo's on.

Here's what I suggest:
1. Use the GM Motorsports rotors (they have thicker cheeks)
2. Have the rotors Cryo'd (this will add 2-4 times the life of the rotor)
3. Some have used titanium backing Plates behind the pads (I haven't as yet) which reduces heat transfer to the hubs.
4. I have seen the stock rotors with a Jet-Hot Coating to reduce heat transfer to the hubs (I haven't done this either, yet).
5. Some use Stainless Steel or Custom Titanium pistons in the calipers instead of the aluminum stock ones which act as a heat sink. Rippie sells the SS ones
www.dougrippie.com
6. Use a quality racing pad like Porterfield, Carbotech, Hawk, Performance Friction or Mallett's. I run Mallett's Gold Race Pad in the front and The Silver AutoX in the rear.
www.mallettcars.com
7. Some use Rippie's Brake Proportion Spring in their Master Cylinder. I don't.
www.dougrippie.com
8. Some have put on Stainless Steel Lines. Goodridge or Russell. I would put the Goodridges on if I could.
9. Use a good racing Brake Fluid. Motul or AP. I use AP600
10. Bleed the brake fluid often. Get a set of Speedbleeders
www.speedbleeder.com
11. Make sure you "set in" the new rotors and pads correctly.
12. Follow the 2nd Rule of Italian Driving
a. Use Brakes only to Stop
b. If your using the brakes you are going too slow.
c. Only use brakes to slow down in an Emergency.
d. The only thing that qualifies as an Emergency is a truely gorgeous woman standing on the curb.
13. Above all warm the pads and rotors up before racing hard on them, also allow them to cool after each run
 

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Don't take this as a flame but their are several things you can do to keep this from happening again and lower your costs.


1) Brake pads from Chris Slack at Team Chevy are $95 for the fronts. Swapping them out yourself saves some cash and prevents metal-on-metal contact which will hurt your rotors.

2) Front rotors are available from him for $50 each, just in case you grind your pad backing on the rotors again.

3) With track use the rotors will turn blue from the heat, as long as they don't crack or warp you're fine. Turning the rotors smooths them out but removes material and makes them more prone to heat damage (warping, cracking).

4) I get about 2 track weekends (16 x 30 min sessions) out of a set of stock front pads. I'm not sure how you managed to use up a set in 3000 miles and 2 track events with a total of 20-25 laps, you might want to have your dealer check the whole brake system and see if something is not installed or adjusted properly. You are definitely getting the raw deal on pad life.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replys, helped a ton. I understand the dealers concern about covering the brakes, however I do not understand why they will not cover the wheels...the fronts are pretty discolored. Kinda light rusty look around the lug nuts.
 

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ZO6ROX said:
Thanks for the replys, helped a ton. I understand the dealers concern about covering the brakes, however I do not understand why they will not cover the wheels...the fronts are pretty discolored. Kinda light rusty look around the lug nuts.
Probably because the damage was caused by using it in a "competative track event" ... ie, "racing". Even if you had told them it was due to normal steet use they would be smart enough to knoiw better, unless the brakes where stuck on from some component failure.

Wow -- hot enough to discolor the wheel paint ... :eek:.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yea, that is what the dealer said. And I do understand but I truly thought the car was built for track. I have been racing in PCA for a hell of a longtime and have never had this type of problem....I truely did not hard brake of late brake that many times, it was more of a test and tune session, just going thru the motions to see how well the car reacted in a tight road coarse. I guess I learned my lesson...the car is barely going to see the track if any.
 

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Re: As I Have posted before....

DJWorm said:
....the stock brakes ARE the Weakest Link.

7. Some use Rippie's Brake Proportion Spring in their Master Cylinder. I don't.
www.dougrippie.com


The Z06 has dynamic rear proportioning, like the trucks. The spring there that Rippie makes, either won't work on a Z (I haven't looked at the system to if if it will or not), or is wasted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I checked out the Rippie site, the spring is a great idea, I am going to call them in the morning to ask about the Z06 and install instructions, looks really easy.
 

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Z06ROX,
Yes, you must pay to play.
When I do a track event I figure $200 for brakes. This includes rotor wear, pad wear, and fluid.
I figure another $200 for tire wear.(4 schools per set)
Fuel is another $60.
$460 per weekend. It does cost money.
Why did you only get 25 laps in 2 weekends?
I think what you have on the front wheels is the metallic brake dust turning to iron and appearing to be a rusty color. Happens when things get hot and especially if the dust gets wet.
I have had it happen to my wheels many times and the following product has worked great for me. Wheels look like brand new.
You can use a product called CLR (calcium, lime, rust, remover).
Or similar products. Lime Away also. Most hardwares sell it.
I have used it many times. Put it on and let it set for 15 minutes and wipe it off. It may take several times.
If that is not the problem, forget you read this. ;)
It does work though.
I do not agree that the brakes are junk. It may take a while to get the right set-up but be patient.
The way a person brakes can also have a big affect on wear.
Be sure to cool them properly also. Cool down laps, etc.
Dave
 

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According to a GM racing engineer, who races Z06's, he runs the HD GM rotors and Hawk plus pads. When he autocrosses, he changes to stock rotors and pads. Maybe he knows something we don't. Again, he runs in a stock class and cannot change brake rotors. I ran that set up last season and it really works. One important thing to remember is to warm up you brakes gradually. If you start runing banzai runs at the beginning, you can easily warp the rotors and ruin the pads.
 
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