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Good call. "well it could be the lifter, but well dissasemble the whole endgine just to make sure"......lol Any plans on modding it? or just keeping it 100% stock?

Kind of interested to see if theres valve wear..
I will keep it stock. The wife made me promise not to mod it when I bought it. However, when I see design deficiencies like this, I am very tempted to mod the thing.
 

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Good luck. :sad: I assume you don't have an extended warranty?

At this point, I wouldn't buy a C6Z without having a heads & valve job done, especially as these cars get up in age. Expensive, yes...but it seems to be necessary based on the number of reported failures, at least for the peace of mind.
No extended warranty. A friend of mine has an 03 Z51 with extended warranty and ended up paying 100% to correct a differential problem. Challenge was that warranty would not pay claim until the problem was properly identified and the dealer would not fully identify the problem until the thing was dissassembled, so it was a Catch-22 situation. He ended up going to another shop and paying the lower price just to repair it.

I guess I assumed that if I took care of it and did not beat the thing up, that it would last 100,000 miles at least, like all of my other cars.
 

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Wow- sorry to hear about your troubles, but honestly, if you were able to drive that far after the troubles arose, and there was no oil and water (together) leaking from your car when you arrived, it probably isn't going to be the type of catastrophic failure that you think it is. Good luck, keep us posted.[/QUOTE

I guess it was worse than I had hoped, but better than I feared. Looks like you have a very nice stable. If your Z has a problem, just drive the GTR. How is your GTR holding up? I met a gent in Palm Beach who slightly modded a 2009 and when its transmission broke, Nissan denied all warranties. Fortunately, the bum is stinking wealthy and modded the thing for another $80K to be both a low 9-sec quarter mile car combined with a decent road racing suspension.
 

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I did a Google search for TSBs on the C6Z06, after dropping my car off at the dealer to troubleshoot a problem, and was brought back to this forum. Now I am getting a sick feeling.

I sure hope that I am not going to be one of the GM screwed. I bought my 2008 C6Z preowned with 7950 miles in 2010 from a Certified GM dealer. I met the prior owner and still talk to him (He had to sell due to loss of fight with his wife), and I truely believe that he was completely anal about caring for this car. It did not have a blemish on it. Due to fear of voiding the warranty, I kept it completely and absolutely stock, which was hard as in the past I tended to modify everything I owned. At 9000 miles, both cats clogged and had to be replaced under warranty for reasons unknown (gas alcohol content?), but it has been fine since. I have never tracked the car (not even a 1/4 mile test & tune night blast). Other than a brief run through the gears, and hanging an on-ramp at a conservative 0.9 Gs (very infrequent), I baby the thing. I have not had a ticket since 1979.

Today at 33,400 miles, while going to work I noted a ticking that soon became random clatter/rattling under the passenger valvetrain area. I had personally built a couple of engines in the past (i.e. 7000 rpm Pontiac 445 SD with BME aluminun rods, forged pistons, etc), so I know this C6Z sound is not good. I called the dealer for an appointment, and I weighed the risk of having the car towed (damaged by nimrod) and leaving work early to limp to the dealer to drop it off. No check engine light or misfires, but very noticilbe rattle/clacking. I essentially idled the car with the hazard flashers on for 15 miles to the dealer by using gears much higher than normal (i.e. 6th gear at 42mph) and left it. It is quite embarrassing to drive a supercar in a "hurt" and wounded manner. Thank God that a Nissan GTR or Porsche was not around.

Then I see this post, and would agree that if GM has identified valve guide problems, due to their loss of quality control, that there should have been recalls. The onus should NOT be on the owner to eventually discover and experience their lack of quality control, that they had already identified as occuring in frequent occurences, warranty or NOT. Catastrophic engine failure can be flat dangerous to life and limb in many daily driving situations.

My wife picks me up from the dealer, and I tell her this may not be cheap. I said that it had to be addressed ASAP, as it could blow a $14,000 engine. She responds that it would be ridiculous to drive a car only 33,000 miles and have the engine fall apart. I shrugged.

Wish me luck guys, as problems like this cause people to switch brands with extreme prejudice.
I Corner, you are correct - the motor does NOT have to be dropped. I visited my car at the dealership almost every day that they had it, just to check up on it. They did pull out everything in front of the motor but they had the entire top end off with the motor still in the car. I suspect that either your dealer is trying to milk you or the mechanic doesn't know how to work on Vettes. Best of luck.
 

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I Corner, you are correct - the motor does NOT have to be dropped. I visited my car at the dealership almost every day that they had it, just to check up on it. They did pull out everything in front of the motor but they had the entire top end off with the motor still in the car. I suspect that either your dealer is trying to milk you or the mechanic doesn't know how to work on Vettes. Best of luck.
Thanks, I will ask him about that. My schedule is such that there is no way for me to go down to Palm Beach to check on them.
 

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OK, the final cost to me was $3133, which was after GM covered $1740 of the repairs. However, this included some routine service, which I authorized to replace fluids/flush (transaxle, differential, brake, clutch, coolant) and also to do a top engine clean. Of course since most of these systems were breached during the engine disassembly and to "drop" the engine cradle out of ther car, it seems like they reduced the cost for some of the double dipping type of work (i.e. would have to flush brake lines anyway after disconnecting lines).

I did a close inspection of the engine compartment with a flashlight from above, and noted that the power-steering cooler fins were bent all to hell. I agreed that it was cosmetic damage. However, as the car is absolutely pristine except for 3 very small scratches, which are tough to find unless you know where to look, I insisted on replacing the cooler, as this would devalue the car on a casual inspection. They agreed, put it on on order, and promised to replace at no cost to me. Other than that I saw some small broken wire loom plastic pieces and a stud nut that did not appear to be bottomed out on the ABS mount, that they said was supposed to be that way. They said the work is warrantied for 12 months or 12,000 miles. However, I reminded them that if I have any problems associated with the work they did (i..e a leak in any system they breached, abnormal tire wear alignment), that I consider that part of the warranty work.

A friend of mine called a GM dealer in Ohio, that he says is renown for being Corvette experts, posing as me with the type of engine failure that I had. He said that he was told that this Ohio dealer would only expect $1000 from GM for assistance and estimated that my total costs woudl be about $4000. So I guess Schumacker treated me well in comparison. That Ohio dealer also said that they had only seen this failure twice and only on LS7 engines.

The car seemed to run fine on the way home. The car still has mild valvetrain noise, which I understand is just normal for this engine. However, now I wonder if the metal shavings that I saw on the magnetic drain plugs a long time ago was early wear on these lifters or "normal LS7 engine wear".

I had never taken this to the track before, but now wonder if I need to run the hell out of it to make sure that it will hold up.

Rick
 

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I had never taken this to the track before, but now wonder if I need to run the hell out of it to make sure that it will hold up.

Rick

As far as a new motor is concerned, do the usual break-in and then drive it like you stole it.....
 

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Just had my 2007 Z06 exhaust valves tested (wiggle test) for valve guide wear. My exhaust play was .008"-.009" in all exhaust valves, twice the factory operating range. My car is bone stock with 10,000 miles and very minimal valvetrain noise. At least it's a great sales pitch to the wife who approved the purchase of my WCCH Stage 2 heads today!
 

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Just had my 2007 Z06 exhaust valves tested (wiggle test) for valve guide wear. My exhaust play was .008"-.009" in all exhaust valves, twice the factory operating range. My car is bone stock with 10,000 miles and very minimal valvetrain noise. At least it's a great sales pitch to the wife who approved the purchase of my WCCH Stage 2 heads today!
Sweet.... now put a cam in there. Might as well since the heads are off.. and since the heads are off, put some headers in...

What made you go with WCCH
 

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Sweet.... now put a cam in there. Might as well since the heads are off.. and since the heads are off, put some headers in...

What made you go with WCCH
Since I live in Nor Cal and have to obide by strict smog laws long tubes are not an option. I dont want to de-mod my car every 2 years. I'd love to have a smog cam in there, but thats another 2k. So right now, I am bullet proofing the heads, adding a Callaway intake and getting her dyno tuned which should put me around 490 RWHP, I'm good with that.

I went with the WCCH heads due to high reviews and reliable reputation. A lot of guys are running the stage 2 heads are very happy with them. The shop doing the work also recommends them and they know what they have a lot of experience with LS7 heads. I belive they do most LS7 heads swaps in the bay area.
 

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Since I live in Nor Cal and have to obide by strict smog laws long tubes are not an option. I dont want to de-mod my car every 2 years. I'd love to have a smog cam in there, but thats another 2k. So right now, I am bullet proofing the heads, adding a Callaway intake and getting her dyno tuned which should put me around 490 RWHP, I'm good with that.

I went with the WCCH heads due to high reviews and reliable reputation. A lot of guys are running the stage 2 heads are very happy with them. The shop doing the work also recommends them and they know what they have a lot of experience with LS7 heads. I belive they do most LS7 heads swaps in the bay area.
I have a 2012 Z06 with 8300 miles and am contemplating doing exactly this. Are guys with newer Z's seeing the same issues?
 

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I have a 2012 Z06 with 8300 miles and am contemplating doing exactly this. Are guys with newer Z's seeing the same issues?
The guys around your mileage and year will do the wiggle test at minimum, but considering youre still under warranty (im assuming) youll be covered by GM if your engine grenades.
 

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I have a 2012 Z06 with 8300 miles and am contemplating doing exactly this. Are guys with newer Z's seeing the same issues?
I attempted the wiggle test not long ago on my 2012 at 12K miles. Had trouble getting the dial indicator down to the correct position but my inconclusive test indicated less that .004 wiggle higher up on the stem. I have just over 13K now.
 

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I have a 2012 Z06 with 8300 miles and am contemplating doing exactly this. Are guys with newer Z's seeing the same issues?
I know of a couple guys with 2011 Z's that had .007-.01 measurments with under 5k miles... I would recommend paying a knowlegeable dealer to do the wiggle test; if the results come back outside factory operating range, then you get brand new heads covered under warranty. The replacement heads that GM is provideing seem to have the problem solved. The dealer that I take my car too (Abel Chevy) says that Z's that have had heads replaced under warranty with new GM heads have had zero problems. You car being a 2012 may already have the corrected heads, but I would have a dealer perform the wiggle test anyway, that way it is on record.
 

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Great information guys, thanks very much. I think before I head down the aftermarket head route I'll go to the dealer and let them do the wiggle test.:cheers:
 

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Great information guys, thanks very much. I think before I head down the aftermarket head route I'll go to the dealer and let them do the wiggle test.:cheers:


I would steer clear of dealership in general. Track record shows that their techs arent as knowledgeable about the LS7s. If it was me I would have a reputable performance shop do it. Reason why I say that is bc some of them might apply that cost towards getting the heads fixed. Being that youre in warranty, you really have no option but to go to the dealership. Just make sure their tech is very VERY knowledgeable about the Z
 

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I would steer clear of dealership in general. Track record shows that their techs arent as knowledgeable about LS7s. If it was me I would have a reputable performance shop do it. Reason why I say that is bc some of them might apply that cost towards getting the heads fixed. Being that youre in warranty, you really have no option but to go to the dealership. Just make sure their tech is very VERY knowledgeable about the Z
I completely agree and am fortunate to have a reputable shop that can work on the car and a dealer that has an LS7 Corvette expert too. Vengeance Racing will be the shop if the dealer finds issues. I doubt they would warranty the heads because I have long tube headers on the car but you never know, maybe I'll get lucky.
 

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Just wanted to report back... I picked up the Z yesterday from Synergy Motorsports after they installed WCCH Stage 2 heads, Callaway Honker and Dyno tune. My mind is at ease with all valve issues taken care of. The car runs smooth as silk now and makes 493.3 hp to the tires, not bad for stock cam, maifolds and cats. Rick did a great job on the install and tune! If you live in NorCal and own an C6 Z06, I highly recommend doing this mod... great peace of mind and incredible performance gain.
 

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Just wanted to report back... I picked up the Z yesterday from Synergy Motorsports after they installed WCCH Stage 2 heads, Callaway Honker and Dyno tune. My mind is at ease with all valve issues taken care of. The car runs smooth as silk now and makes 493.3 hp to the tires, not bad for stock cam, maifolds and cats. Rick did a great job on the install and tune! If you live in NorCal and own an C6 Z06, I highly recommend doing this mod... great peace of mind and incredible performance gain.
Good to hear everything worked out for you. Not to shabby hp numbers (now save up for rear tires! :lol:)
 
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