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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all

well, i don't know what to say.. but

i just bought an 02 Z with 20 k miles on it. I had it serviced at chevy 2 days ago. I also had them do an engine wash.

Tonight, i took it out, and the check light appeared on the dash.

The car seems to be running fine, i didn't really push it hard, but every thing seems kind of fine.

according to the owners manual, it says that this light might come on if i drove into a big puddle of water. So maybe the engine wash caused this?
 

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Hard to provide advise without knowing what codes are that are causing the light. Since you have a manual, read the section on how to pull the codes and post those. I bet it is not a biggie since it's running fine, post the codes and we can offer more. Good Luck
 

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IPC Display and DTC Codes, a powerful device.

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The IPC display, the 20-character, vacuum florescent screen above the steering column that says "Corvette by Chevrolet" every time you turn on the key is a powerful device.

DIY Service Techs are going to be most interested in the LPG’s ability to show diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) for all the modules that transmit them.

The "diagnostic display" mode is entered with the following Procedure: Page 8-500

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the "reset" button to turn off any warning messages
3) Press and hold "options" and
4) While holding "options", press "fuel" four times within a 10-Second period.


Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into the "automatic" mode, which shows each module's DTCs in a
pre-set sequence: (Page No. are for the GM Service Manual)
10 PCNI Powertrain Control Module page 6-357 - 6-361
28 TCS Traction Control system ABS on page 5-86
?? RTD Real Time damping page 3-136
40 BCM Body Control Module page 8-405 LTD Page 8-727
60 [PC instrument Pane! Cluster page 8-508
80 radio page 8-213
99 FIVAC Heater Vent-Air Conditioning page 1-118
A0 LDCM Left Door Control module page 8-904 to 8-951
Al RDCM Right Door Control Module page 8-904 to 8-951
AC SCM Seat Control module page 8-1064-8-1082
B0 RFA Remote Function Actuation page 8-676

For each module, all DTCs will be displayed. If none are present in a module, you will see "no more codes" on the ICP display.
There are two kinds of DTCs, "Current" and "History," designated with a letter suffix, "C" or "H". A current code indicates that the malfunction is present in the system whose module is displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed in that module sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it is possible it's evidence of a previous problem. Now solved, that was not removed by clearing codes. More likely is that a history code indicates an intermittent malfunction.

"Intermittent" are the most challenging DTCs. An intermittent may have happened only once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent in its appearance or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the IPC is displaying codes. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not Operating at the time DTCs are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger, which doesn't operate until the BCM detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a system that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a "scan tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the IPC has displayed all 11 modules, the system goes into the manual mode, which allows selection of each module, using combinations of DIC buttons. The manual mode can also be entered at any time during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except "E/M". Once the IPC displays "manual diagnostics", you may select a particular module by pressing the options button to go forward or the "trip" button to go back. Once a system is selected and a DTC is displayed, if more than one are present; press "gages" To move forward or "fuel" to go back. To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M". If you want to erase or "clear" codes, press "reset". Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory.
 

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wow...good stuff on those codes and how to access them....I don't have a problem (knock on wood), but it is good to know that there is an easy way to get to them for some help......thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
wow, thanks, i didn't know how to access that. I "attempted" to read my owners manual, but since the owners manual is in FRENCH (i live in Montreal, Canada) I have a hard time understanding the manual, so I figured i would just ask around on this fabulous forum.

(anyone want to trade a French manual for an English one? hehe...)

Ok, when i get back home, i will try looking up the DTC and then post it on here.

thank you so much for all your help, everyone here is great.
 

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You should NEVER was an engine other than first thing in the morning after sitting and cooling all night. When water hits a hot engine, it creates steam that can get in places it shouldn't and cause problems like this. I would doubt your dealer waited till the engine was sufficiently cool. Also, it should never be some kind of pressure wash.
 

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Mikey is 200% correct. Cold engine, garden hose, Simple Green, and a air hose to help dry it off.
 

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Totally correct. I just gunked my engine the other morning and then rinsed with lots of LOW PRESSURE WATER until it ran clean. Installed new air cleaner, detailed engine compartment and test drove. So far all is fine. Likewise, I also wipe down the engine compartment every week when I wash the car and check the oil. But, then again, down here in South Florida that is a no brainer. :yeadog:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
for those who use Gunk.. man that stuff is horrible! It smells toxic! And i think it burned a hole in my pavement! last time i used gunk was like 8 years ago, and i was horrified of the smell, and it took a lot of water to wash off....maybe they improved the formula?

I find that simple green works very well, both on engine and on wheels. I think it might even be more environmentally friendly
 

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Gunk was reformulated many years ago but they kept that great smell. I guess, being a product of vettes and hot rodding since the late '50's--I love the odor. But it must be rinsed thoroughly off of raw aluminum--just like simple green. I also use simple green or 409 on the wheels--but since I installed the ceramic brake pads the car is again fun to drive. NOW, if I didn't have to be paranoid about flats--it would be really be a blast. :blush:
 

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Guys, we have the Code info right here.

Click on (Owner FAQ) over on the left.
<-----------------

Then click on (Electronics).

Then click (What are IPC Codes and how do I access them).

Pat
 

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IMO, LS1/6 engines have one critical design flaw. The knock sensors are in the valley, between the heads, under the manifold. They're in "wells" in the top of the block. Those "wells" fill with water. Normally, not much, but enough that over time, the knock sensors can become corroded and stop working correctly. I suppose if you hosed the motor really good, you might fill the "wells" up and cause a problem.

But as others have pointed out, you don't need to look far for possible explanations. There are plenty of electrical connections under the hood. They're not water tight, just water resistant. Soak 'em good, you'll get 'em wet.

Odds are, after a few long drives, the heat from the engine will dry/drive out the moisture from wherever it is and things will return back to normal.

I don't remember if there are any codes that permanently light the trouble lamp. Most only last a single ignition cycle after the condition goes away.

Your best bet is to set the DIC in diagnostic mode and clear each and every code (with the RESET button when the code is being displayed, just hold it down for a few seconds until you hear the beep). If the problem is permanent, the code will come back. If it was temporary, the trouble lamp will go out and you'll be all set.
 

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mannygmt2 said:
wow, thanks, i didn't know how to access that. I "attempted" to read my owners manual, but since the owners manual is in FRENCH (i live in Montreal, Canada) I have a hard time understanding the manual, so I figured i would just ask around on this fabulous forum.

(anyone want to trade a French manual for an English one? hehe...)
Go onto e-bay and look for someone selling vette parts cd-roms. Most of these also have complete copies of the owner manuals on them too. For under 10.00 you can get an electronic copy.
 
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