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I would like to install a 4 point roll bar in my Z. I have a friend that is an excellent welder, and will weld for Beer. I however, have no idea how much surgery is required to do the install. I imagine I need to cut through the interior to get to the frame. Are the holes required huge? Can they be resealed so as to look very clean post install? Will there be large soft spots in the floor where the frame pads pass through the interior? Does anything large need to be removed from under the car (Gas Tank, fuel lines, etc)?

If you know of any links to installation instructions for a particular manufacturer, those would be very useful.
 

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I am getting ready to install a cage, and have done lots of research. In terms of a 4 point bar, the front 2 points will weld to the bulkhead behind the seat, no cutting except carpet. The back 2 points will weld to the frame in the trunk. You;ll need to cut fiberglass and carpet. Not sure of hole size as I haven't done it, but it should not be too hard to reinstall fiberglass just with tube hole cut out.
 

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You may want to consider draining the gasoline out of the tank.
 

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I have done this in other non-c5's on converted raccar and street/track compromise car. The later is what you describe. The problems are using a really neat welder person. If you use a MIG with FCAW it is the dirtiest but the strongest welds. They use FCAW to structurally weld buildings. However, MIG with gas and TIG are just fine. All welds must be done properly and if you don't have 100% confidence that you can "Structurally weld" I suggest that you have your friend tack weld everything where you want it and then have the real weld bead put on by a pro. They work cheap to do 4 welds when all they have to do is connect a ground wire and start welding. If you MIG with gas the welds are nicer and there is less flash slag to pop off during welding to get all over the place and shoot 1 ft onto nice parts of your interior and burn it. So when you do this you need to use a welding blanket to isolate your weld area. Also note that the heat to weld is 1000+ degrees and that heat radiates to the surrounding interior so stuff can melt. You can't just cut a 2" hole for a 2" bar and weld it in. Also any bar will need to be on feet and it is the feet that are welded to the car. If you really want the street/track compromise consider welding plates with threads to bolt your cage so you can remove your interior and bolt your cage. If you are doing a street/track compromise you are not trying to be SCCA T-1 legal anyway. Furthermore if you weld your cage then you really want a proper cage with 6 points minimum and best to tie into suspension towers etc.. etc... etc.... Then when you sell your car you can unbolt the cage and replace the interior. That is the cleanest way to do it. Also, C5 are pretty cheap you can buy entra interior parts and store them away for the day you sell your car in the future. As to the gas tank you really only need to isolate the tank from splatter unless you are welding sheet metal right over the tank. This is a use your own judgement. I have welded VERY CAREFULLY right over tanks many times.
 

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IMO, have a professional do it-Phoenix comes to mind. There are any # of incidents of "cages" collapsing because of incomplete/inferior welds, wrong stock being used and/or improper positioning. Also placement of bars/cross bars for your "comfort and safety" is something that some people don't take into consideration and only find out after installation that they are miserable. Good luck
 

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I'd also recommend East Coast Supercharging. They do a custom fabricated roll cage and install. I just dropped my Z off today to have one installed. Give Chris or Doug a call. :thumb:

Don
 

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Just had an Autopwer 4-pt w/removable harness bar "bolt-in" installed in my car. I put that in quotes since they weld plates to the frame in the trunk area. Then they bolt the rear pieces to those plates. The shop owner told me it was very close to the gas tank. They could only drop the tank a bit. So they had huge welding blankets and did a small bit at a time and let it cool. Since Autopower is in San Diego they even had a guy from Autopower there while the installation was done.

Come to think of it I don't know if the main hoop (attaches to top of bulkhead) required any welding.

BTW, also installed a Momo Start seat (cheapest Momo) and an Autopower 5-pt cam-lock. Was supposed to play with it this past Friday (2/18) at Streets of Willow but I bailed due to the weather. :(







 

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You have to remove the center console(rear 1/2), both seats, carpet on bulkhead(behind seats) and rear carpet. If you look a the the picture, you can see where it is welded to the bulkhead, and if you look at where the rear bars attach, you have to cut out a rectangular hole(place the bar in place, make sure it is square and centered), and mark around the rear pads. I used a whiz-wheel to cut the holes (1/16 inch fiberglass, grin the top of the frame and bulkhead where it is going to be welded.You can either heli-arc or mig weld. Take you time welding(let cool) and best to have the gas tank full.The hardest(and most time consuming) part of the whole job is cutting and fitting the carpet so that it looks neat.
 

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Finished . I had mine powder-coated which held up better to the welding( as opposed to paint, although you can repaint the lower part of the bar once it is welded).
 

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i just installed a wolf 6 pt roll cage in my car its the best looking cage ive ever seen in a vette..
 

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I notice that your shoulder harness bar is too low for your seat. It should not be less than a 90 angle to your shoulders.
 
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