Has anyone run a 12.6 bone stock like GM claims?
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Heck yes! All depends on road and air temp, driver, etc. but check the sigs of many of our members, also they can post time slips to verify. Several LOW 12 sec ET's, one guy in New England posted a 12 flat last fall, as I recall.
My car runs mid 12's but I have only used the G-Tech, so I would not count that as a verifiable time, but I have seen them.
My car runs mid 12's but I have only used the G-Tech, so I would not count that as a verifiable time, but I have seen them.
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60 Posts
Last Friday I ran a 12.893 with a 1.072 reaction time. This is in a bone-stock Z06 (street tires at recommended pressure), no mods (except a magnetic oil plug [for full disclosure]). Also, that was my first time ever at the track.
If my R/T was halfway decent, say 0.5, I'd have run around 12.3. I'll be returning to do just that in the next several weeks.
Check out my time slips at: http://y42.photos.yahoo.com/bc/scott14468/lst?.dir=/New+York+International+Speedway+8-8-01&.view=t
If my R/T was halfway decent, say 0.5, I'd have run around 12.3. I'll be returning to do just that in the next several weeks.
Check out my time slips at: http://y42.photos.yahoo.com/bc/scott14468/lst?.dir=/New+York+International+Speedway+8-8-01&.view=t
Scott,
The timing lights at the track, any track, do not take into account reaction time with regard to 1/4 times. The clock starts when you cross the starting line, not when the light turns green. So after the light turns green you could sit there for 30 seconds and then go and you would still go a 12.8 not a 42.8.
Just so you know. /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif
FINN
The timing lights at the track, any track, do not take into account reaction time with regard to 1/4 times. The clock starts when you cross the starting line, not when the light turns green. So after the light turns green you could sit there for 30 seconds and then go and you would still go a 12.8 not a 42.8.
Just so you know. /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif
FINN
We have also seen a mid 12 run in bone stock with street tires... it is not all that hard, the times they publish for the 1/4 mile are not that hard to do...
0-60 on the other hand....
and Scott, Finn01 is correct in what he was saying, your reaction time has nothing to do with the time you run.
0-60 on the other hand....
and Scott, Finn01 is correct in what he was saying, your reaction time has nothing to do with the time you run.
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1,300 Posts
I could never get traction and anything but crazy wheelhop so i didn't get in 12's even yet.
Car makes power on par with everyone else but best i could manage was low 2.30's 60' Almost embarrasing to admit after almost a decade of bracket racing under my belt.
My best run is 13.0 at 112mph on a 80 degree night with engine hot (right off street).
A mid 12 is possible with these cars but you need damn good traction and cool weather in my mind.
Car makes power on par with everyone else but best i could manage was low 2.30's 60' Almost embarrasing to admit after almost a decade of bracket racing under my belt.
My best run is 13.0 at 112mph on a 80 degree night with engine hot (right off street).
A mid 12 is possible with these cars but you need damn good traction and cool weather in my mind.
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1,300 Posts
Oh yeah if you want killer ET's shallow stage. And I mean the light should literall be flickering. Most people don't realize the difference between deep and shallow staging on many cars is almost a tenth of a second in ET. (and reaction time)
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1,300 Posts
The reason the two bulbs (yellow staging bulbs)come on to let you know your staged is becuase you have broken both beams. They are about 18' if I remeber correctly apart.
So when you first roll into beams just light top bulb, then roll up ever so slightly to the bottom bulb starts flickering then stop. Both beams should remain lit at this point. Thus shallow staged. This gives you extra few feet of roll before breaking the beam which starts your et time.
Deep staged is actually rolling far enough forward that only the bottom beam is lit and the top goes out (you will see guys at bracket races write deep on there windshield so starter gives them extra time to deep stage). This improves reaction time since you are starting closer to the actual start beam.
Every little bumb in from shallow staging should decrease your reaction time (assumes you react the same every time)but also increase et the same amount.
Go up to a starting line at a dragstrip and you will see what I mean. Look for the beams at the start and watch the cars roll into them.
So when you first roll into beams just light top bulb, then roll up ever so slightly to the bottom bulb starts flickering then stop. Both beams should remain lit at this point. Thus shallow staged. This gives you extra few feet of roll before breaking the beam which starts your et time.
Deep staged is actually rolling far enough forward that only the bottom beam is lit and the top goes out (you will see guys at bracket races write deep on there windshield so starter gives them extra time to deep stage). This improves reaction time since you are starting closer to the actual start beam.
Every little bumb in from shallow staging should decrease your reaction time (assumes you react the same every time)but also increase et the same amount.
Go up to a starting line at a dragstrip and you will see what I mean. Look for the beams at the start and watch the cars roll into them.
Hmmm.... so maybe I'll try a shallow stage next time I go. I wonder if that'd be enough to get me my 12.3 I was hoping for /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif
Or maybe I'll wait until I get my intake and exhaust in, then shallow stage and hope for 11.9s /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif
_________________
Jim Ptak
'01 Z06 - 12.42 @ 113.96
'01 GSX-R750
Or maybe I'll wait until I get my intake and exhaust in, then shallow stage and hope for 11.9s /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif
_________________
Jim Ptak
'01 Z06 - 12.42 @ 113.96
'01 GSX-R750
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