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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tried everything (body sore as hell).

Finally brought a craftsman top of the line electric impact wrench last night.

It couldn't loosen it.

Now before I lose my mind let me double check the basics.
Using a 13/16's socket I go clockwise from the persepctive of sitting outside the car and not facing the nut (since it is behind the rotor and goes towards me).

And unlike the caliper itself there is no other bolt to also hold down (you know the 18mm you use to hold to then twist the nut with the 15mm). Right????

:screwy:

Now I am not a supestrong he man but certainly am at least at average strength.

Please help. This should be much easier that it appears and I really don't feel like bringing my car to a shop everytime I crack a rotor. Which happens alot at HPDE's and solo1's.

Thanks for any help.
 

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Your impact wrench should have to positions forward and reverse. Put impact wrench in reverse and you should be able to loosen your bolts/nuts. :blush:
 

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I've found that sometimes a cheater bar, A LONG ONE, works much better than my air impact. However, if the bolt is seized, you might want to spray a lubricant on it and let it soak a few hours. Then tap on the bolt to get the penetrant to work better. I used PB Blaster and soak everything at least 24 hours ahead of time.
 

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I turn the wheels to one side or other to put caliper to the outside of bodywork and use 18" long 1/2" breaker bar on those bolts.

It sounds like it's possible (?) that yours was re-assembled with Loctite 271 or similar, meant for permanent assemblies. If so, you may have to heat the bolt to over 450 degrees F to break bond. I don't use Loctite, but do torque bolts to 125 ft.-lb. at rotor changes.
 

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PerforminNorman said:
I've found that sometimes a cheater bar, A LONG ONE, works much better than my air impact. However, if the bolt is seized, you might want to spray a lubricant on it and let it soak a few hours. Then tap on the bolt to get the penetrant to work better. I used PB Blaster and soak everything at least 24 hours ahead of time.
I agree with Norman, get a long breaker bar. I always go by "Work smarter, Not harder". Let the leverage do the job for you. :yeadog:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This is in my garage so limited tools (ie no torch) but will try longer bar.
I was just surprised gun couldn't remove it.

Showing how disquested I was I didn't even think of turning wheels to get better angle at it.

:crazy:

Why hello..
 

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Silver Bullet said:
This is in my garage so limited tools (ie no torch) but will try longer bar.
I was just surprised gun couldn't remove it.

Showing how disquested I was I didn't even think of turning wheels to get better angle at it.

:crazy:

Why hello..
A 15.00 propane torch is nice to have. :yeadog:
 

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I had to slide a piece of pipe over the breaker bar to give me enough leverage to break them loose. Those baby's were tight, I also had to jack the car up higher to use the extened pipe bar but it finally did the trick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Based on good advice I got them off.
Added pipe over to get additional leverage and (never underestimate how college education doesn't over run common sense) I actually turned the wheel to full lock so I could get better angle on it.
;)
 

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PerforminNorman said:
With every project I take on, I see the potential to buy new tools. :rofl:
:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: Isn't that the truth!!!!
 

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Silver Bullet said:
Based on good advice I got them off.
Added pipe over to get additional leverage and (never underestimate how college education doesn't over run common sense) I actually turned the wheel to full lock so I could get better angle on it.
;)
:thumb:
 

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The rear caliper bracket bolts are the worst. There's no way to get a cheater breaker bar on them.

BTW, Chris, congratulations on FTD at The Rock last weekend!
 

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I just did my rear rotors last night. It was impossible to get a long enough wrench so I used an impact gun. I had to raise the PSI to about 110 to remove the bolt. At this PSI the bolt WILL come off.
 
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