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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've recently had this done and driven a good 50+ highway/city miles. I can tell that the fronts have lowered but not enough. I know that one way to go lower is coilovers but i'd like to see if someone knows of something less costly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I checked out Hardbar's front kit on their website. Has anyone tried this? It doesn't state how low you can go. It would have to be shorter than a stock bolt with 2/3 of bushing cut off.
 

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I think once you've cut the bushings off, that's as far as you can go w/o spending some $$. I did mine, and the way it's put together, you're at the limit. Shorter shocks may take it down some? Your car looks like it's on rubber bands. Bet it rides pretty rough, eh?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Actually, it's not so bad it's good! Compared to my previous lowered TA, i'm surprised it rides so well. :crazy:
 

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Front lowering

1. Adjust stock bolts as far as possible

2. Cut 2/3 of OEM front spring perch bushings

3. Replace front spring perch bolts with HardBar's SS bolts with Delrin buschings

4. Replace OEM front leaf spring with VB&P Extreme front spring. These have higher rates and have a shallower recurve to allow the car to ride lower with less deflexion. The save a few #'s also. Using a stiffer swaybar may also be necessary.

5. Install a coil over system.

Note:
- you will have to lower the rear a like amount keeping a 1/2" rake using longer rear bolts. HardBar makes a nice Titanium set.
- If you lower more than the factory recommendations using the OEM bolts you will need shorter shaft/body shocks. I recommend Penske DA's with remote reservoirs.
- You may need to correct any induced bump/toe steer by correcting suspension geometry using Baer's Heim jointed spherical bearing toe rod ends.
- Custom billet Aluminum 5 axis CNC'd hub carriers are also available that reposition the wheel bearing/spindle for lowered cars.

Using smaller wheels/tires that have a 25.5" overall diameter would also help as would lightening the front end by such things as relocating the battery to the rear.

The above is listed in descending progression.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, so is that a yes? It will lower more than cut bushings?

I have the rear lowering bolts already. I can squeeze 2 fingers in the rear between fender and tire now.

Right now the space in the front is a full 3 finger width after cut bushings whereas before there was a 4 finger gap.
 

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sorry to highjack your thread but i was wondering somthing about the 1/2" rake on the c5's.

what would happend if i wanted to lower my front more than my rear....say to the point that there is a 1" or 1.5" rake.

what would be the downside of this and would anything go wrong with the car. this is on a 03z...thanx
 

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Some of the guy's have taken the front bolts completely out all together and got it a little lower, next step would be coil overs
 

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A rake greater than 1/2" is OK if it is within the factory range (window), off hand I don't now what they upper limit is. If you have more than 1/2" the rear will probably "step out" more.

We just found that 1/2" was optimal
 

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I would buy the Hardbar bolts and install them.
This wll get you pretty low. Lower than that and most of us have issues with speed bumps, etc. Then you may need shocks, etc.
Another suggestion; use a tape measure to make your measurements. The finger method is just not accurate especially when keeping the rake is so important.
 
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