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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Gonna be buying a Z06 real soon and wondering how much HP the stock rods/pistons (bottom end etc.) can take as far as power production. I'm gonna porbably do Ported heads/Mti cams/full exhaust and some other junk but need a good base on how far is too far for the stock motor?

I tried to a do search but kept getting an error. Sorry if this is a Noob post, but hey i'm a mustang guy :)
 

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First, I know sh_t about this subject, except what I have heard on thi sight. Nobody else was speaking up so here goes.

I believe the answer is around 550 to 600 at the crank. I've read that several times over the last almost three years.

Good luck. Hopefully some of our more knowledgeable members will chime in and correct me, if I am wrong.

:z:
 

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You are correct... LS6 can take about 550 hp. above this, about 550-575 hp, you would to forge the bottom end.
 

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Pulled this off of an old thread:

"I have the Stage 1+ setup, which incorporates the Stage 2 fuel system, but uses the stock bottom-end (after all, mine had 6700 miles when I took it to them). Mine makes 535rwhp, which is probably ~575-580 flywheel HP. Still its shy of what the original poster wants. 21CMC did tell me that several customers with Stage 1+ setups run more boost with race gas and will see 580-590rwhp, and report no problems." (Originally posted by WA 2 FAST)

I did a search on "bottom end".

:)
 

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I was running 564 on the stock bottom, it was the pistons that could not handle the heat.
 

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Something to consider. If you drive your Z fairly aggressively but not WOT through the gears at every chance, you will probably only be using 3/4 of your dyno'd RWHP. That will help the stock bottom end live longer. A real good tune will keep it out of detonation and that should help the pistons live longer. I would wager most of us here (>51%) use the higher HP between 2500 - 6000 RPM. That makes the car a LOT more fun to drive while easing (not much) the strain on the bottom end.

If you are using your Z for track events such as DE's then the extended high RPM use on the straightaway's would put a lot of load on the bottom end and pistons. Couple this high RPM with the stress of repeated runs up and down the RPM end for cornering and you are walking the edge even more.

Sorry this got a little long. Just wanted to say that how long your motor lasts will be factored on how you drive it.

Later ... Larry S.
 

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Using a Dynojet 248C, I'm at 500 rwhp but at 600 rwtq. It's hard to get high numbers without a power adder, so just tune it to avoid detonation. The stock motor could theoretically handle tons of power, but the first detonation and the engine is gone. Forged internals help resist severe damage in case there is a detonation. So,... great tuning, great fuel and fuel delivery, and staying on top of maintenance like plugs, etc. will keep the engine in one piece. If you even add 11:1 heads and never check plugs or use bad gas, then don't expect the engine to hold up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks everyone for all the info. I'll do minor head/cam work and some nitrous. I want about 500 RWHP or so.... nothing to crazy since this will just be my weekend cruiser and i'm only 20...

:D :z: :thumb:
 

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Although aware that engine reciprocating parts have limitations and a finite service life, I am more concerned about my driveline than engine bottom. With a stock Z06 clutch, transmission, and 3.73:1 differential, heck, I heel-and-toe in parking lots.

With 102k+ on the engine, I am beginning to explore financially viable options:
- LS6
- LS3
- LS480
- stroked/cammed LS6

My goal is to stay at or near 500hp to aid driveline longevity.

Ain't got no problems. Don't want no problems.
 

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It depends if the application is forced induction or naturally aspirated.

The two biggest points of failure on a stock motor is normally pinching the top ring and popping the head of the piston which you see in many forced induction/nitrous applications, or loss of valve control which removes the "cushion" in the cylinder and leads to the rod bolt being pulled apart which you see in many h/C combos with aggressive cams.

As sated, there are some acceptable thresholds. After that it requires more attention to detail on the tune, and the tune up, combo, etc...

Alternately, you can pull the motor down and add some ring gap, and/or throw a set of stronger rods bolts in for some extra insurance.
 

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Gonna be buying a Z06 real soon and wondering how much HP the stock rods/pistons (bottom end etc.) can take as far as power production. I'm gonna porbably do Ported heads/Mti cams/full exhaust and some other junk but need a good base on how far is too far for the stock motor?

I tried to a do search but kept getting an error. Sorry if this is a Noob post, but hey i'm a mustang guy :)
Gonna be buying a Z06 real soon and wondering how much HP the stock rods/pistons (bottom end etc.) can take as far as power production. I'm gonna porbably do Ported heads/Mti cams/full exhaust and some other junk but need a good base on how far is too far for the stock motor?

I tried to a do search but kept getting an error. Sorry if this is a Noob post, but hey i'm a mustang guy :)
Mine
 

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Gonna be buying a Z06 real soon and wondering how much HP the stock rods/pistons (bottom end etc.) can take as far as power production. I'm gonna porbably do Ported heads/Mti cams/full exhaust and some other junk but need a good base on how far is too far for the stock motor?

I tried to a do search but kept getting an error. Sorry if this is a Noob post, but hey i'm a mustang guy :)
My 2017 Z06 dyno pull was 560 RWHP, Headers, pulley change,
Better air intake sys....
615 RWHP Guess I hope it stays together, shift at around 6000
6100
 
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