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I am wondering how much NOS the stock exhaust valves on the Z06 will take? My mototr is fully done, the only weak link I can think of is the exhaust valves because they are sodium filled.

I have installed a NOS pro fogger on my car and would like to hit a 350 shot.

Anyone have any experience?

:drunken::anyone:
 

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I am wondering how much NOS the stock exhaust valves on the Z06 will take? My mototr is fully done, the only weak link I can think of is the exhaust valves because they are sodium filled.

I have installed a NOS pro fogger on my car and would like to hit a 350 shot.

Anyone have any experience?

:drunken::anyone:
Does it have all forged internals? If not dont go over 175-200 TOPS...Where are you located?
 

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Depending on what was done to the motor there are a lot of other parts I would worry about first with a 350 shot! :eek2:
 

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I haven't really heard of anyone having problems with the sodium filled valves, but then again I don't know anyone who is going to be spraying 350 on them. I have gone personally to 300rwhp on the stock C5 Z06 valves, and IIRC they are also sodium filled. That was with a forged 408 and LS6 heads. The only problem I have ever had was bending a stock LS6 rod with 685rwtq and that was a 285rwhp shot on a stock block. However, this was after about 300 1/4 passes, sprayed.

These GM motors are brutes and if done correctly can handle a lot of spray. If i was spraying your car, I would use a multi stage set-up and introduce the top 1/3 of your hit in the upper ranges of the RPM band. It's really the low end torque that does the damage, given a spot on tune. So if we can minimize the low end torque spike, the motor will live a much longer safer life. At that level, fuel, plugs and timing need to be chosen correctly, as I am sure you know. A good free flowing exhaust is also mandatory.

On my car, and yes I am going also for 350rwhp, I have it set-up for 3 stages of dry. The first stage is a Direct Port Dry, that will be progressed, the 2nd and 3rd stages are a Dry plate (after the MAF) and will both be locked out of 1st gear and controlled by a window SW. Stage 1 will come on about 4500rpm, 2nd stage will come on at about 5000/5500rpm and the 3rd stage will come on about 5800rpm. So you can see how I am keeping the low end torque under control. Not only will this make my motor happy, it will also allow putting the power down.

Running the 300rwhp shot, and having it all come in much lower RPM wise, I couldn't get a decent complete 1/4 run due to the massive low end torque breaking the tires loose. It's like the guys with the Kenny bell blowers, instant torque. Anyway, just some ideas for you to think about.
Robert
 

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Bunk pure and simple, boost is boost and the LS1/6/2/7 with 10 plus :1 engine compression, small torque to yield head bolts, one less bolt per cylinder then a older LT4, aluminum parts, weak ringlands cannot take any real N20 in stock form
I know you love to spike the marketing of buy N20, slap it on and it is really safe BS but it is certain vette owners have seen even stock N/A blowout, esp the LS7 with no cylinder walls and brittle sleeves

Running N20 SAFELY long term requires common sense as in any form of boost in beefing up the bottom end and also reducing the chances of heads lifting and blowing out head gaskets.

I haven't really heard of anyone having problems with the sodium filled valves, but then again I don't know anyone who is going to be spraying 350 on them. I have gone personally to 300rwhp on the stock C5 Z06 valves, and IIRC they are also sodium filled. That was with a forged 408 and LS6 heads. The only problem I have ever had was bending a stock LS6 rod with 685rwtq and that was a 285rwhp shot on a stock block. However, this was after about 300 1/4 passes, sprayed.

These GM motors are brutes and if done correctly can handle a lot of spray. If i was spraying your car, I would use a multi stage set-up and introduce the top 1/3 of your hit in the upper ranges of the RPM band. It's really the low end torque that does the damage, given a spot on tune. So if we can minimize the low end torque spike, the motor will live a much longer safer life. At that level, fuel, plugs and timing need to be chosen correctly, as I am sure you know. A good free flowing exhaust is also mandatory.

On my car, and yes I am going also for 350rwhp, I have it set-up for 3 stages of dry. The first stage is a Direct Port Dry, that will be progressed, the 2nd and 3rd stages are a Dry plate (after the MAF) and will both be locked out of 1st gear and controlled by a window SW. Stage 1 will come on about 4500rpm, 2nd stage will come on at about 5000/5500rpm and the 3rd stage will come on about 5800rpm. So you can see how I am keeping the low end torque under control. Not only will this make my motor happy, it will also allow putting the power down.

Running the 300rwhp shot, and having it all come in much lower RPM wise, I couldn't get a decent complete 1/4 run due to the massive low end torque breaking the tires loose. It's like the guys with the Kenny bell blowers, instant torque. Anyway, just some ideas for you to think about.
Robert
 

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I really don't know what your problem is, lol, quit following me around, lol. I never told the guy to spray his car with any amount, I told him what I have done. Furthermore, all of the LSx family can take pretty large shots if done correctly. Many hundreds are spraying up to 250 shots. My 300 shot if you re-read the post is and was on my fully forged 408. Largest I went on stock block LS6 was 285rwhp and I received a nice big trophy for winning the dyno shoot out. My combined numbers even beat out all the turbo guys, this was a street/strip class. Hopefully, the poster won't be chased away from spraying by your input. Knowledge is power my friend.

It's all in the tune. If I was stock block, I surely would not spray a 350 shot. I suggested how I would approach spraying his Z06, but I never stated how much. I will now however. Like I have been saying for years, if done correctly a stock LSx could take a 300 shot on occasion. One thing to point out, the larger the CI of the motor, the larger the over all hit can be safely. I gave the guy the benefit of doubt on the 350 and a C6 Z06 thinking he may know more about it than I. But I suppose you know better than he does; his plans and reason for the 350? He did ask for experience, lets hear yours?

Guys had said, when I went to 200 years ago that it would blow, well it did not. Many thousands of end users hit their LSx with 200rwhp shots. For longevity sake, I would rec limiting our hits to 250rwhp on stock blocks and making sure that the tune is spot on, and introduced into the motor as suggested above. But like anything modded, we must be ready should something go wrong. I know I was. You can't make many hundreds of passes with out an engine finally needing service/rebuilding when spraying hard and heavy.

By the way, nitrous is not boost in any way shape or form. At least not in the sense that we refer to boost around here. Now if you meant boosted horse power, then yea, we could agree. But boost as in added PSI, no that does not work.
Robert
 

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Hardly following you as you just started spouting the 250 shot is safe for a LS7 :-?

What I will not do is allow people to just read your marketing hype when the big bang occurs on someones LS7 due to lousy N20 design and your ideas will not be around to pay for their damage and/or loss of GM warranty.

First you say all LSx engines are safe and in the next breath your own engine is forged to reduce the chance of the big BANG

Your engine has cylinder walls and is thicker so until you understand punching out a 346 CI to 427 I'd suggest you limit your claim to fame to steel blocks.

WOW you won a trophy using all the horsepower and torque on a dyno, dang that is why we spend $70,000 plus for a Corvette and drive it tied to the ground :moon:

Knowledge is the difference in using performance gainers like N2O with well designed systems and vendors who know the difference in putting a nozzle in a aircleaner.
Do not tell me about knowledge, tuning or designs as my 2001 Z06 has run with supercharger, N20 and water/methanol with a real tune for over 5 years with zero failures with 600 RWHP and I know when a see someone blowing smoke out of their butts as you say you've been doing this for years yet cannot even sell a N20 kit any more.
Your using this thread as a learning curve and then will go to those other forums and proclaim your LS7 knowledge.

Boost, around here ? - tell us again why there are CAMs with lower engine compression just for N20/supercharger/turbo and what the pressure in cylinders is with N20 and VE/ BSFC changes ?


I really don't know what your problem is, lol, quit following me around, lol. I never told the guy to spray his car with any amount, I told him what I have done. Furthermore, all of the LSx family can take pretty large shots if done correctly. Many hundreds are spraying up to 250 shots. My 300 shot if you re-read the post is and was on my fully forged 408. Largest I went on stock block LS6 was 285rwhp and I received a nice big trophy for winning the dyno shoot out. My combined numbers even beat out all the turbo guys, this was a street/strip class. Hopefully, the poster won't be chased away from spraying by your input. Knowledge is power my friend.

It's all in the tune. If I was stock block, I surely would not spray a 350 shot. I suggested how I would approach spraying his Z06, but I never stated how much. I will now however. Like I have been saying for years, if done correctly a stock LSx could take a 300 shot on occasion. One thing to point out, the larger the CI of the motor, the larger the over all hit can be safely. I gave the guy the benefit of doubt on the 350 and a C6 Z06 thinking he may know more about it than I. But I suppose you know better than he does; his plans and reason for the 350? He did ask for experience, lets hear yours?

Guys had said, when I went to 200 years ago that it would blow, well it did not. Many thousands of end users hit their LSx with 200rwhp shots. For longevity sake, I would rec limiting our hits to 250rwhp on stock blocks and making sure that the tune is spot on, and introduced into the motor as suggested above. But like anything modded, we must be ready should something go wrong. I know I was. You can't make many hundreds of passes with out an engine finally needing service/rebuilding when spraying hard and heavy.

By the way, nitrous is not boost in any way shape or form. At least not in the sense that we refer to boost around here. Now if you meant boosted horse power, then yea, we could agree. But boost as in added PSI, no that does not work.
Robert
 

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Hardly following you as you just started spouting the 250 shot is safe for a LS7 :-?

What I will not do is allow people to just read your marketing hype when the big bang occurs on someones LS7 due to lousy N20 design and your ideas will not be around to pay for their damage and/or loss of GM warranty.
I put this on another thread but it might be appropriate here too...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jtn3LG8_g9E

Mike
 

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I put this on another thread but it might be appropriate here too...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jtn3LG8_g9E

Mike
Thank you. I have posted that same video many, many times and have it at my site and my Fquick site. That is the car that held the stock block Z06 record for a couple years, in the any power adder catagory. It won a dyno shoot out 2 -times. Just because I bent a rod with 300 sprayed passes under it's belt, doesn't mean the technology doesn't work. We did a lot of firsts and records with that car and small dry hits. Towards the end we pushed it hard, real hard. I don't expect many to want to spray there stock motors with a 285rwhp, but we were looking for the limit. besides, I have never told anyone to do the same. You know how many said the 200 mark would blow the motor? Now many thousands spray a 200 and live nice long lives. thanks

here's another one where I won the dyno shoot out for the 3rd time. My personal car in your link as well as this one, the same exact dual stage dry kit was used on both. the 2nd vid is with the 408 though. The dry technology works, and works wonderfully. this motor has seen a 300rwhp shot already, and plans for next season are 350 shots in dry triple stage. All controlled through the stock PCM and sprayed after the MAF-the new dry technology. No more sometimes, for some, inconsistant a/f ratios with the old school dry nozzles in front of the MAF, the style in these videos.
[url=http://www.fquick.com/videos/[email protected]_Turbo_Tech/4113]Dyno Shoot Out Video[/URL]
Robert
 

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Yep that 250 N20 shot was really really safe and another Corvette owner takes the hit with engine replacement costs :lol:
Wrong as usual on all accounts. Doesn't that get old for you, lol?
First off, witnessed by 30 to 40 guys, it was a real 285rwhp shot. Second, you keep spreading the lie that this is someones car i hurt, wrong, this is my personal Z06 which I still own today. After 300 sprayed 1/4 passes, yes it let go, so what, I still got the dyno win. If the technology was wrong, do you really think it would have lasted.

this year i did not enter my car in the shoot out. However, a dry kit I installed on a buddies car did in fact win the overall sprayed HP numbers. That is four times my dry technology has won and beat all comers. Seems to be working quite well. Would you like to see his car too? It's really trick looking set-up. He unlike myself, will not be pushing the boundaries. that is OK though, I do it to learn and learn we have. The dry tech is really becoming of age. It is now doable for anyone that likes an easy to tune set-up.

your pretty good at putting a spin on things, that i will credit you for, lol.

the one thing you fail to realize, the 150 shot as the safe limit on a 346ci motor, has more room on the 427. The safe limit, IMO, would be closer to 200hp on the ls7. Relatively, they would both have approx the same increase in cylinder pressures- 346 @ 150hp and the 427 @ 200hp


Robert
 

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The only thing you will stir is the piston rods through the engine block
With the high engine compression, a redline of 7,200 RPMs I suggest you re-look at 300 shot of N20.
At the least would require the stock injectors be replaced with the LS9 injectors and total retune of PCM with no more then maybe 150 shot.

Head bolts on these designed non boost engines are smaller then even the old LS4 and have one less head bolt per cylinder as a LS4

Being torque to yield bolts with any real boost will cause heads to lift and cause head gasket problems unless you steel O ring to clamp gaskets from moving.
 
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