Yes, they can be replaced. They are not welded in but use a c-clip instead. You will have to cut an access hole in the plastic tub to gain access to either the front or rear, rearward bolts.

If available see service manual Vol. 3, pgs: 8-1393-1398 for the procedure.

 

Thanks dude. It was a different page for me (never thought to look in the 'frame and underbody' section). Looks like there's a rivet that prevents the bolt from rotating. Must've broken it or come loose. I'll just use a little screw or something to hold it tighter.

Appreciate it.

Dope

 

Update: got it fixed.

Just as I thought, the rivet had self-destructed, allowing the stud to rotate freely.

The stud itself has an eyelet hanging off of it, which mates up with another eyelet welded to the framerail.

I cut a small access panel with a dremel, cut the rivet out, grabbed a small bolt and cut it down, and loctited it in there with a nut.

Gonna let it set overnight and see how she does. I'm surprised this doesn't happen more often, this is 'only' my 3rd time dropping the rear subframe. When I put it back up, I red loctite it in place so it doesn't come loose, and it takes tons of force to remove it, the rivet just couldn't hold up.

Gonna epoxy that panel back in tomorrow, should hold up fine.

Dope

 

In the future, use a shopvac while cutting. It reduces dust by like 95%. I did that when doing my minitub and there was virtually no dust. Just hold your cutting tool in 1 hand and aim the vac at the cutting wheel with the other hand.

 

Good idea. Quite frankly I didn't care, I am working outside and it's pitch black out now and I just wanted to get it done so I could let the loctite set up overnight. I'll clean that crap up tomorrow.

Dope

 

There is a drawing of that bolt in the service manual, perhaps you saw it. There is no description however. It shows a pop rivet as attaching that tab to the frame rail. You could pick up a pop rivet kit at Home Depot, etc. That may be a better solution although yours should work too.