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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks,

I am going to change my rear rotors before my first DE of the season(I recently did the fronts).

Question: I have read and heard a lot about how the rears are a real *_&% since the spring assembly on the emergency brake can easily pop out when removing the rear rotors.

Is there a proven way of removing the rear rotors to ensure this does not happen? I have read things like "be careful when removing the rear rotors". I would like some steps I can actually take in being careful..

thanks...
 

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Changing Rear Rotors

I too had heard warnings about being careful before changing my rear rotors. I just followed the rather simplified instructions in the GM Manual and there was no problem. You have to remove the parking brake cable at the caliper (don't forget to reattach it when you are finished!), remove and support the caliper, remove the small lock washers from the studs (these may not be installed) and then the hardest part was actually getting the rotor off. It was tight so I just kept gently tapping it with a steel hammer around the perimeter until it loosened and could be pulled off. Thankfully, nothing went "SPROING" so I had no problem.

Good luck.
 

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I agree. The step in the Service Manual that most seem to miss is to completely detach the cable at the backing plate prior to attempting to remove the rotor.
 

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I replace my rotors/pads often, one for High speed events and another for autox and street. I just unbolt the 2 caliper bracket bolts and remove the entire assembly, remove the rotor, change pads and tighten and torque the 2 bolts. Never had a problem with the parking brake. Also, just crack the bleeder fittings so you do not mess up the ABS. I just did it again last Friday.
 

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I've changed the rear rotors more times than I can count and never even thought about the parking brake until I read this thread. :lol:

All I do is have the parking brake off so I can pull the rotor off. Never been a problem. :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks very much guys. "parking brake off to ensure rotor comes off". I ALWAYS set the parking brake whenever I do anything with the car, so I appreciate that tidbit.....that could have held me hostage for hours :screwy:
 

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Very easy job! :yeadog:
 

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jnjboc said:
Hi folks,

I am going to change my rear rotors before my first DE of the season(I recently did the fronts).

Question: I have read and heard a lot about how the rears are a real *_&% since the spring assembly on the emergency brake can easily pop out when removing the rear rotors.

Is there a proven way of removing the rear rotors to ensure this does not happen? I have read things like "be careful when removing the rear rotors". I would like some steps I can actually take in being careful..

thanks...
My parking brake is gone. I accidently left it on for 10 miles and didn't even notice. Its fried. The Z06 parking brake is a POS in any event...
 

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Another tip for ya - GM says to replace the caliper bracket bolts, but many of us never have. I just clean them up well with a wire brush, apply some red high-strenght loctite and torque them up to spec (125 ft/lbs).
 

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dmtnt said:
Another tip for ya - GM says to replace the caliper bracket bolts, but many of us never have. I just clean them up well with a wire brush, apply some red high-strenght loctite and torque them up to spec (125 ft/lbs).
when I went to the Chevy dealer to buy new bolts, the mechanics standing at the desk told me that they never use new ones, that they use the red loctite.....thats what I did when I changed to the drilled/slotted rotors on my car.....

just make sure that you get them on in the right direction....there is a right way and a wrong way...they are dierection sensitive....I have a link on my home computer that shows the right versus wrong way....not on my laptop though....maybe one of the other guys will have easy access to the link and can show it.....it helps.

good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
yes, I have heard that from several guys, as well as my sage advisor, Dave Montgomery, who showed me the ins and outs of doing my own brakes. he also reuses the bolts with red loc-tite(I really like their new "chapstick" applicator)

FIRST GEAR, I don't understand the comment about the bolts being direction sensitive-so dummy this down for me, please. they tighten clockwise and loosen counter CW. I am missing something simple here.....help me! :D
 

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dmtnt said:
Another tip for ya - GM says to replace the caliper bracket bolts, but many of us never have. I just clean them up well with a wire brush, apply some red high-strenght loctite and torque them up to spec (125 ft/lbs).

Like he said, the only thing that I can add to this I worked for a military contractor for a few years and have used a good bit of that stuff. When using Thread Locker (Loctite) the threads on both the nut and bolt must be clean and grease free. I use lacquer thinner or electronics tuner cleaner to clean both parts. Thread locker does go bad so if you are not sure how old it is get some fresh stuff.
I will on critical bolts take a spare nut and bolt apply the thread locker and put it aside till the next day to check that the stuff did cure.

Just my opinion

Sabot
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ah, yes, the rotor veins. that makes sense. I always label my rotors on their shipping boxes based on their part # to make it easier(LR, RR, etc)

thanks.....
 

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Easy way to tell if the rotors are on the right side is to look down at the vanes: they should be "pointed" rearward. In this orientation, the vanes pull air in through the gap in the center and expels it out through the vanes like a centrifugal pump.

Note, I say should. The C6 uses the same rotor on both sides for some weird reason. So on a C6, they are correct on one side and wrong on the other. GM apparently decided to save a few buck with only one side mold. Some aftermarket rotors may be the same. I can say for sure the OEM NAPA replacements for the C5/Z06 are correct. So are the stock C5/Z06 rotors.
 

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Back from the dead with this thread but some good pointers here that I found useful doing my first pad / rotor replacement after I searched this out.

I work for a company that builds industrial fans and the reference to a centrifugal pump/fan regarding the rotor vane direction by subdriver is correct. GM must have figured out a unique fact about centrifugal wheels and their blades - It doesn't matter which way you spin the vanes, they will always pull air from the center of the rotor and move it outwards. It is more efficient at moving air when rotated the "correct" direction but it works either way. The difference in terms of rotor cooling must be negligible thus the single design on the C6. They could take it one step further and just have the vanes come straight out from the center. Again not as efficient at moving air, but it would be equal on both side of the the car.

I never thought working with fans would somehow help me do a brake job on my Z06 correctly, but today it did.

Ryan J
 
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