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I have a question for a few of you experts, I am going to the track for the first time next week and would like to know the best way to take off? Should I use traction control? I presume yes. How many revs and should I should dump the clutch? That kind of stuff, thanks alot.

Kerry from Texas

Quicksilver 02
 

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People will chime in here but you're probably best off reading all the threads on this from the past....

Up top, put "launch" in the search box, hours of reading in there :)

Welcome to the forum!

JC
 

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Welcome Kerry

You came the the right place for advice. First of all have fun and put the pedal to the balsa wood chassis.


Sanford :cheers:
 

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Sanford, balsa wood..:lol: :lol: :lol:


Andy
02 T/R Z06
 

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Here is a whole bunch of information we have gathered at our end for newbie tips. This will save you hours of looking all over the net. Enjoy the information and tell us how you fare.

1/4 Times
Finally got to run the 1/4. boy I missed it. the 1/8 was getting old. well here ya go. 85 degrees. Blackwing and Ripper. Tires at 30psi.


R/T .650
60' 1.93
330' 5.20
1/8' 8.02
MPH 89.21
1/4' 12.32
MPH 113.8
Well, went to the track today, and boy am I happy! With the only performance mod on the car being the Halltech Intake and TRIC. I made my fastest passes to date. I have been experimenting with launch techniques for a few weeks now and I have this beast figured out. Car is 2001 Z06 with nothing removed for weight savings and a B&M Shifter and has 2500miles. I just installed the Halltech two weeks ago. These runs were all with the stock F1 supercar tires. Well here are the runs:

Run 1
60ft-1.827
1/4-12.346
MPH-113.64

Run 2
60ft-1.870
1/4-12.333
MPH-113.92

Run 3
60ft-1.850
1/4-12.303
MPH-114.03

I am very happy! More mods to come... I am gonna see if I can run 11s with just the intake when I put a good clutch in the car and run some ET Streets

Today, I finally ran on a track where they don't make you drive through the water when staging. As a result my 60' foot times improved substantially on the stock F1SCs and my ETs dropped accordingly.

Track was Cecil County dragway in northeast Maryland. Only got four runs. Here are the best two.

60'............1.856
330'..........5.170
660'..........7.885 @ 91.45
1000'......10.191
1320'......12.145 @115.85
Density Alt: 1703 Feet

60'............1.834
330'..........5.141
660'..........7.889 @ 90.65
1000'......10.215
1320'......12.170 @115.53
Density Alt: 1421 Feet

Stock shifter. Only mod is a Halltech Tric.

Mine cools down fast to 192-194 degrees when I:

turn on AC, push the recirc button, and push the fan setting up to max. Works every time even when track temps are in the 90s.

I shut the AC off again when I actually stage the car.
Actually, If you turn your Heater on... this works even better, because it still turns on the fans... and brings the Antifreeze, through the heater core... and back... giving it more time to cool!

Yes, I use the 'Front Defroster' setting, to be sure the fans are on, but I also have a fan switch.. so that isn't necessary for those who have their fans on a switch. However, we gain further temperature cooling, by routing throughout the Heater Core.

You are right... it isn't comfortable sitting in a car with the heater on, when it is already hot outside... but this is where sacrifices are made for every Hundredth!

I use the AC/recirc/max fans technique at the drags. ALWAYS brings my temps down to 192-194 degrees. Might try raises the rpm to 2000 vice idle, thereby moving more water.

In COMPETITIVE DRIVING Mode, just hit the reset button. That will allow the DIC to report water temp etc.

Originally posted by racingfast
Thnks RANGER....at drags.... how do you set up your car? Tire press/launch rpms,etc?

racingfast,

Here's what I'm doing.

Stage: Windows up. COMPETITION DRIVING set. Radio off. AC off. At Capitol Raceway, I pull straight through the water; they won't let you go around it. At Cecil County Dragway, I drive around the water, keeping the tires dry.

I spin the stock F1SC tires for a second or two to clean them off. I was running 23 lbs in the rear and 42 lbs up front. I shallow staged, barely tripping the second set of bulbs.

Launch: I hold an rpm between 2000-2900 (depending on what the track seem to want) and quickly release the clutch with full engagement occurring in the first 2'-10'. I let the tires to hook before going to WOT. the intent is to leave just enough rubber to not bog the engine.

Shifting: I'm running the stock shifter. Did some slight throttle lift on the shifts particularly on the 1st-2d where it's easy to spin a lot. Was shifting 1st-2d and 2d-3d at an indicated 6300, because it revs so fast and need to stay off the limiter. The 3d-4th shift was at an indicated 6500.

One other thing. I've started wearing running shoes instead of low-cut work boots. I'm thinking the thinner soles give me a little better feel for what the rear wheels are doing.

Hope this helps.

Ranger
Our local club had the chief Z06 engineer at our meeting the other month. After talking to him, he suggested that I monitor the oil temp not the water temp. With AC on it kicks on the fans, defrost will do the same, but defrost and heater will add extra movement in coolant...but it takes longer before results. His advise was to use whatever was most comfortable to get oil temp to 220-230 degrees. Depending on the day and time for waiting, I have varied the above methods.

I could not get a good explanation why some Z06 will cool to 190-200 and others only 205-215 degrees. Too many variables on his part.
New Best ET on My 01 Z06
Here are some interesting data for those following the real drag performance of Z06s with minimal mods. Mine has a Halltech Tric and the rest is stock. The car has been running consistent low 12.5s this summer in mixed weather.

Friday night at Capitol Raceway in Crofton, MD weather was in the low 80s; barometer was 29.85. Humidity was in the low 70%.

Made five passes in the following sequence with these results:

12.53 @ 115.8 with a 2.06 60'
12.35 @ 114.4 with a 1.94 60'
12.44 @ 115.6 with a 1.99 60'
12.49 @ 114.0 with a 2.03 60'
12.48 @ 114.8 with a 2.05 60'

Here is an extract of the slip for the best run.

RT: .5291
60': 1.9407
330': 5.2801
660': 8.0312
1000': 10.3681
1320': 12.3540
Trap: 114.3519

The five runs were very consistent.

My times from 60' to 1000' varied by only .050 seconds.

Times from 1000' to 1320' varied by only .012 seconds.

This reinforces what many others have said. All other things being equal, the key to ETs is in the first 60'. Said another way, I can't drop the ET much more unless I can bring the 60' times down, unless I add mods.

Car was dynoed at Carlisle on Saturday at 13,800 miles and made about the same numbers it produced at 7000 miles. Some folks have said the car will produce more power as it accumulates miles. This does not appear to be the case on my car.

I'll be interested to if the cooler weather this fall has an impact on my ETs. I'll let you know.
Took my 02 ZO6 to St. Thomas Dragway at Sparta Ontario on Aug. 11 and made 5 passes with active handling "on" and traction control "off". Raced it stock with 1100 km on it. My best time was 12.930 @ 110.87. I plan to go back in a month, and in the meantime know I need to find/practice a launching technique (My 60 ft was 2.101). I had my eyes glued to the HUD for all the passes but suspect that the active handling system kicked in right after launch (slight hesitation as the beast broke front left/back right slightly). The reason I'm asking is that I've seen a number of posts on this forum warning to NEVER disengage active handling. I know that the car is capable of more and that I'm holding it back (ie. inexperience at drag racing). Any thoughts?
I've never had AH engage on a run.....If it does, it will say AH System Active....If the
message does not come up, nothing was interfering.....

Leave it on. TC off......

Actually a 2.1 60' is quite good for a first time out. My average 60' is 2.08. Only a small percentage of Z06 racers are doing consistently better than you did. We are not talking Best time; we're talking average time across all runs for the night.

But my average ET is 12.55. So I suspect where you really can use the practice is in shifting fast. That's where the Gtech might come in handy. What you're after is runs from 0-110 exercising 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4. I find that my ETs are significantly affected by how much or little I spin the tires on the 1-2 shift.

Suggest recording your time slip splits in an Excel spreadsheet and keeping close tabs on your best and averages each time to the track.

Remember the 1-2 shift is included in your 330' time. The 2-3 shift is in the 660' time and the 3-4 shift is usually in the 1000' time.

There are a lot of variables. We're really just scratching the surface. Above all else, practice, practice, practice.
Thanks for the suggestions! Practicing 0-60 times with a g tech sounds like the way to go for now. A friend and I took the car out to a remote county road tonight and practiced some launches. I'm now sure that AH is not activating when the car is launched in competitive driving mode. It looks to us to be a matter of practice; ie. bringing the tach up to 2 and-a-half grand and smoothly releasing the clutch without mashing the accelerator in order to minimize tire spin. I'll keep your other suggestions in mind too. Thanks also for the encouragement
60' 1.908
330' 5.306
660' 8.015
1/4 12.319
MPH 114.750
 

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Just a quick refresher on different ratings of horsepower. (Source for definitions: edmunds.com)
Gross Horsepower: measurement of engine horsepower taken at the flywheel with no engine accessories attached, no restrictive exhaust system, and in a perfect state of tune (this is how the automotive industry primarily rated a car's engine prior to 1973)
Net Horsepower: measurement of engine horsepower taken at the flywheel with engine accessories and exhaust system in place and in a normal or typical state of tune (this is how the automotive industry rates a car's engine today).
Driven Wheel, Rear Wheel, or Brake Horsepower: measurement of horsepower taken at the driven wheels on a dynamometer, reflecting how much power is available after an engine's accessories, exhaust system, emission control system and driveline losses have taken affect (very useful to know since it's a realistic measure of horsepower in the real world - rwhp).
Both gross and net horsepower ratings are usually taken at the crankshaft.
Great night last night. Temps in the mid 70's and low humidity.
60' - 1.9992
330' - 5.3632
1/8 - 8.1666
1000' - 10.5514
1/4 - 12.57
speed - 111.9687
They can and do. Your right the variables are great so its hard to figure it out. Try this as an easy starter way to get a better run. 14-1500rpm launch just let the clutch out fast and let it bog as your giving it gas, it will net you a 2.0 60' shift at 6200 as quick as you can(if you have to lift on the gas so be it) that should give you your 12.5-6 Ric
Thanks. If your looking for a first mod I would go for a lower temp(I like 160) TS. and a fan switch. You will be able to get to the line between 165-80 that will make the biggest difference. Then think about air intake.
Stage: Windows up. COMPETITION DRIVING set. Radio off. AC off. I pull straight through the water. At Capitol they won't let you go around it.
I spin the stock F1SC tires for a second or two to clean them off. I was running 23 lbs in the rear and 42 lbs up front. I shallow staged by just barely tripping the second set of bulbs.
Launch: The track was not prepped with VHT that night so I was holding just 2200-2400 rpm and quickly releasing the clutch with full engagement occurring in the first 2'-10'. I waited for the tires to hook before going to WOT.
Shifting:I'm running the stock shifter. Did some slight throttle lift on the shifts particularly on the 1st-2d where it's easy to spin a lot. Was shifting 1st-2d and 2d-3d at an indicated 6300, because it revs so fast and I want to stay off the limiter. The 3d-4th shift was at an indicated 6500.
Two other things. First night at the drags wearing running shoes instead of low-cut work boots. I'm thinking the thinner soles give a little better feel for what the rear wheels are doing. Finally, I'm using the AC in recirc mode to fire up both fans right before I enter the staging area. I find this brings the H2O temp down to 194 just fine.
Ranger
Thanks so much for the tips. So as I understand it, you're not "mashing" the right foot to the floor at launch rather "pushing" it until you feel the tires hook and then hitting the throttle at WOT.
How do you know when you're hooking up?...Is it just trial and error? I've only made about 10 passes so far and my 60 foot times are terrible...consistent 2.2's
Also, I'm just learning about trap speed. Do you drive "through" the quarter mile another 60 feet or "let off" the gas once you pass the finish line.
I also heard that you want to be hitting the peak of your horsepower range at the finish line. Is this possible?? I'm always shifting into 4th around 103-104 and I'm barely getting into the gear before I cross the quarter mile point. My best time so far is a 13.3/107 with a 2.2 60 foot. Should I be short shifting 1st or 2nd gear?
Thanks again for all the tips. I'm going to use your tire pressure settings next time.
Racing is so much fun!...I just want to learn as much as I can. Your times definitely show that you're a damn good driver.
...How do you know when you're hooking up?...Is it just trial and error? I've only made about 10 passes so far and my 60 foot times are terrible...consistent 2.2's
Also, I'm just learning about trap speed. Do you drive "through" the quarter mile another 60 feet or "let off" the gas once you pass the finish line.
I also heard that you want to be hitting the peak of your horsepower range at the finish line. Is this possible?? I'm always shifting into 4th around 103-104 and I'm barely getting into the gear before I cross the quarter mile point. My best time so far is a 13.3/107 with a 2.2 60 foot. Should I be short shifting 1st or 2nd gear?
Regarding feeling the car hook, I try to use all my sense. Vibrations and sound and are key. Left foot on the clutch, seat of the pants, the buzz that the tires make all are important ingredients. With practice you develop a sense of what the rear wheels are doing.
On the traps, I always keep accelerating through and a hundred yards or so beyond the traps. Believe the trap speed reflected on the time slip is an average speed through the final 60' of the 1320'.
As to short shifting, I've done some experimentation and found that on the LS6, selective shifting at 6000 vice 6300 or 6500 always cost me .1 or more. So I don't short shift.
I've got 30+ runs since March this year and I'm just beginning to get reasonably consistent. So it takes some practice. I'd recommend doing some launch practice on a secluded section of old blacktop; goal is to get it launched with the lease wheel spin possible without bogging. It helped me a lot.
Good luck to you,
I've been reading through some post today and I've noticed several sigs with stock M6's getting into the high 12's.
I've made approx 10 passes ( still a little green ) and I've quickly learned that the 60 foot time is everything. I cannot seem to cut anything lower than a 2.2
With all my mods, I'm only running a best of 13.3/107
The bright side is that stock C5 Vettes at my track ( IRP ) aren't even getting into 13's. Shizon 00 has similar mods with an A4 and is pulling 13.2's.
Questions-
AH/TCH- on or off?? I tried all three combinations, making my best time in comp mode.
RPMS- I'm launching just above idle. Anything over 2k and my 60 foot times start getting worse…..is this good??
Right Foot- are you stomping it to the floor or firmly pressing it to the floor when you come out of the gate??
My dumb question. What is feathering??
Rear Tire Pressure- My best run was at 27 pounds but I've met a forum member that ran a high 12 stock, but he had to lower his rear psi to 20 to get a 2.0 60 foot!
Powershifting - I've read that the T-56 doesn't like it. I haven't tried this method but is anyone cutting 12's without this technique??
I've tried some 2-3 shifts on the street but my clutch always tends to stick.
Burnouts- Do you just spin em before you stage or are you backing into the water and lighting them up??
Weight- I made my best run with an 1/8 of a tank 94 octane. Was my level TOO low?? maybe I should come with a little more gas next time for better weight transfer...thoughts??
Autotap- will this make a difference??
I am by no means a drag racing expert, but I have managed to master the launch with a G-tech and here is my advice.
- Turn off AH/TC
- Launch around 2500 rpm or so. Feather the throttle (feed it in and modulate it...don't stomp on it or you'll spin em, don't let off either or you'll bog). When you really nail the launch you'll know it cause the power will feed in seamlessly from spinning them to hooking up and taking off. It's really tough not to get a very subtle bog when they first hook up or to keep from spinning too much. Surprisingly, I got some good G-tech 0-60 runs spinning most of the way through first (4.7-8 vs best of 4.6 bone stock).
- Burnouts and tire pressure...not much diff on street tires, esp the runcraps.
- Powershifting isn't necessary but shift hard and fast. You ought to get some rubber going into second or you have a problem.
- Gas is also pretty insignificant. Better just to go low weight in a straight line than try to balance the weight. The vette's tank is designed to provide good weight balance regardless of how full it is.
Now stop polishing your engine and go find a good road to practice on!
1.Get a Helmet. Safety should always come first
2. You won't need any more than a half tank of gas. Last week I went with an 1/8 of tank. Weight is the Devil: Try and find some 94 Octane
3. You'll find that these Run Flats have a hard time hooking up so I would lower your rear tire pressure to at least 30 pounds.
( I made my best run last week with my rear psi at 27 ) Anything below 26 pounds sets off those annoying codes
4. Before you get into the staging lanes turn both thermostats ALL THE WAY UP. This will kick on your fans and should bring down your coolant level to about 190 degrees.
5. When you go into the staging lanes, go AROUND the water. The water is there for drag radials, which we don't have. You can spin the tires if you want, but I wouldn't worry about that either.
6. Before you stage the car, turn EVERYTHING off....i.e.. Radio, AC

7. As for tch/ah, my first time I had both systems on. I was a little nervous. Once I got use to it, I began to experiment with different combinations. I've made my best run so far in Comp/Mode.
8. Most guys I know and forum members tend to launch just above idle. Somewhere around 1400 rpm's.
9. Don't worry about the other guy or redlighting, On green, just punch the gas to the floor and hang on!
10. Don't forget the first rule
As you get more familiar with your car and the track, your times will only improve.
That's it, in a nutshell! Now it's time to go out to your local track and try it. Good Luck!
Here's an alternative. Hold the rpm at 2200 and release the clutch fully over the first 2'-10' of movement. Go to WOT only after the tires are hooked.
On successive runs add 200 rpm. You'll find the best launch rpm for that track on that day.
On a sticky track I am launching at 2700-2900 rpm with 60' in low-mid 1.8s.
I'm usually running the rears at 23-24 psi and the fronts at 42 psi.
A low-mid 1.8Xs 60' on your car would put it in the 11.9x on stock tires.
Ranger
 

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Basics of Drag Racing by Tony DeMarcky, from Island Dragway, Great Meadows, NJ

What is a drag race ?

In very simple terms, a drag race is an acceleration contest from a standing start between two vehicles over a measured distance. The accepted standard for that distance is either a quarter-mile or an eighth-mile. These contests are started by means of an electronic device commonly called a "tree". Upon leaving the starting line, each contestants vehicle activates a timer which is, in turn, stopped when that same vehicle reaches the finish line. The starting line to finish line clocking is the vehicle's E.T. (elapsed time).

Who can compete ?

Virtually anyone can compete in drag racing. To drive a full sized vehicle, drivers are required to possess a valid state driver's license as a minimum. Certain performance levels/classes require a driver to possess a Competition License.
In recent years, a new youth oriented program has developed. The JUNIOR DRAG RACING LEAGUE is open to children 8-17 years old. Competition is limited to the operation of a junior dragster only. Junior dragsters compete over an 1/8 mile course. Junior Dragster competitors are required to possess a valid Junior Drag Racing League competition license.
Any driver 17 years of age or under must have a valid minor release waiver signed by their parent or guardian on file at the track.
All vehicles must meet basic safety criteria (ie: good brakes, seatbelts, safety helmet). This applies to all type vehicles. Faster, all-out race cars must meet more stringent requirements as outlined in the NHRA Rulebook.

What is Bracket Racing ?

Bracket racing is a form of drag racing whereby vehicles of different performance levels can compete on a potentially even basis. The anticipated elapsed times are compared for each vehicle, with the slower car receiving a headstart equal to the difference of the two. With this system, virtually any two vehicles can be paired in a competitive drag race. For example: car "A" has recorded times of 17.78, 17.74, and 17.76, and the driver feels that a "dial-in" of 17.75 is appropriate. Meanwhile, his nemesis, driver "B", has recorded times of 15.27, 15.22, and 15.26 on the same track, and has opted for a dial-in of 15.25. Accordingly, car "A" will get a 2.5 second (17.75-15.25=2.5) head start over car "B" when the Tree counts down to each car's starting green light.
Should a driver go quicker than their predetermined dial in, it is a "break-out", and grounds for disqualification. In the case of both vehicles breaking out, the win goes to the driver who broke out the least.
Another form of disqualification is a foul start, or "red-light". This occurs when the driver reacts to the tree too quickly and drives away from the starting line before the green light activates.

I have never raced before, but want to try. What do I do ?

When you come to the track, you will first meet our "gate personnel". First you will be required to sign a release waiver to enter the pit area. Minors 17 and under will be required to have a minor release form signed by a parent/guardian. You will then proceed to the ticket booth where you pay for admission and be issued a "tech card".
After leaving the ticket booth, you should immediately complete as much of the tech card as you can in ink, and legibly please, before heading to "tech inspection". Tech inspection is where our inspectors check over your vehicle and make sure you have the minimum safety requirements. Having the card filled out neatly before you get to tech helps move things along much more quickly. At Bunker, tech is at the rear of the staging lanes.
After passing tech, you will given a number and class designation for identification throughout the event. After being teched and numbered, you are ready to go. When they call your class to the lanes, proceed to those lanes for time trials/ elimination's. If you are unsure if your class was called, or don't know which lanes you were to report to, feel free to drive up to the back of the staging lanes and ask questions. REMEMBER: State law requires 5 MPH in any part of the facility other than the race track.
We strictly enforce this since there are usually many people walking about in the pit area.

OK, now you are teched, numbered, and in a lane. What next ?

Please stay with your car in the staging lanes. As your lane starts moving, please move your vehicle up accordingly. Follow all instructions from the track personnel as you approach the "burnout box". This is the area where, if you are running slicks, you will do what is called a "burnout" to warm up your tires. If you are running street tires, it is a good idea to drive around the water, as street tread generally will drag water up to the starting line, and give you a poor start. The person in the burnout box will signal you when to start your burnout. Do not approach the starting line or start a burnout until instructed by start line personnel.
After the "burnout" area, you will approach the starting line. In the center of the track, close to the starting line is a "christmas tree". That's the pole with all the pretty lights on it. Slowly approach the starting line until the "prestage" (the bug lights on top of the tree) and the "stage" (that's the second set of bug lights on top of the tree) are lit. At that point, you are set and ready to race. If there is anything wrong, or you are not ready, DO NOT LIGHT THE STAGE LIGHTS. When both cars are staged, the starter will throw the switch to activate the tree. If your car moves before the green light lights, you will get a "foul" or red-light on your side of the tree. During elimination's, the first car to foul will get the red light.
One important note: If all the red lights are flashing on and off, that signifies there is a problem on the track. If you are staged, immediately back out of the stage lights carefully, a very short distance, and shut off your vehicle. If you are not staged yet, stop and turn off your vehicle where you are. Getting back to the race: Once the tree counts down, you leave the starting line, and you're racing. Once you get to the finish line, immediately start slowing down, safely. There are a couple turnoffs, all to the right of the track. Take the one you can make safely. If you are in the left lane, do not cross over until you know exactly where the vehicle in the right lane is, and how fast he is moving. If you are unsure, just use the entire shutdown area and exit to the right at the end of the track. You will then come up the return road, and stop at the "timeslip" booth, where you will get a printout of your run.
 
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