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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Last Updated: 05-02-2009

I was putting together a checklist for my own personal use and decided to share it here. I thought it would be nice to have a resource on Z06vette that was specific to our cars and easy for HPDE noobs, like me, to find in a site search. This information has been taken from several different sources and is a consolidation of all the good tips out there. If I’ve left anything out or need to correct something, let me know by replying to this thread and I will update it.


At Home:

  1. Check / change the oil (fill to top mark on dipstick; flushed within 30 days).
  2. Check / change radiator fluid. Add Redline Water Wetter to radiator.
  3. Check / change power steering fluid.
  4. Check transmission and differential fluids.
  5. Check for any fluid leaks.
  6. Check brake lines for cracks (stainless steel brake lines and "Speed Bleeders" are also a good investment) and make sure your brake lines have enough length in them when your suspension is fully extended. You can buy directly from speedbleeder.com or other performance vendors.
  7. Check / change brake fluid (flushed within 30 days). (A1)
  8. Check brake pads (should be 50% or better).
  9. Brake lights operational?
  10. Check / change clutch fluid. (A1)
  11. If pulling tranny/torque tube out of car for other maintenance, check around the bolt holes on the clutch pressure plate for cracking. Once you get to 40-50 track days, if you pick up a vibration in your car that varies with the clutch in and out, I would bet the pressure plate is beginning to get cracks around the bolt holes.
  12. Check hoses and belts for cracks
  13. Check rotors (especially the front rotors) and hubs for cracks and wear.
  14. Check tires for excessive wear, flat-spots, cuts and bad/worn/cracked valve stems; pressure (30-31 psi); torque lug nuts (100 ft-lbs recommended). Check wheels for cracks, especially around the spokes (this is even true of heavily used CCWs).
  15. Check the steering & suspension for excess play or clunking sounds. Check sway bar nuts and bolts, especially on the front where the sway bar bolts to the aluminum a-arm. With the car on jacks, wiggle the wheels. If they have some play and move back & forth with your hands at 6 and 12 o'clock, you probably have bad wheel bearings. If they show some play with your hands at 3 and 9 o'clock, you probably have worn tie-rod end-links.
  16. Print out the C5 computer codes found here: Turn the key to the ON position, but don't start the engine. Clear any present messages by pressing the RESET button. Hold the OPTIONS button down, and press the FUEL button 4 times. This will get you into the CODES section of the DIC. The computer will automatically display all the codes your car has created. It will cycle through each code every 3 seconds. Any code that ends in H is a history code (something that has occured in the past) but is fine now. Once the computer has finished going through all of it's codes, press RESET to enter Manual Configuration mode. It should start with a module and show "NO CODES" or "# CODES".
(A1) Recommended to replace brake and clutch fluid with high temp brake fluid (DOT4 recommended, but not essential for first event).
Z06Vette.com - Corvette Z06 Forum - high temp on tranny fluid
Z06Vette.com - Corvette Z06 Forum - Prep For Track Day



At The Track:

  1. Check / adjust tire pressure (30-31 psi cold, ~40 psi hot). Remove center caps. Tape up wheel weights with duct tape or that shiny silver/heat-reflective tape so when the wheel weight adhesive melts from the rotor heat that they don't fall off your wheel.
  2. C5 Z06 add oil to equal 1 quart over full (=7.5 qts). This is not necessary in the C6 Z06 due to the dry sump oil system.
  3. Gas cap secured.
  4. No exposed wires.
  5. Seats bolted tightly.
  6. Make sure driver’s seat back is up-right and seat is close enough that you can reach the steering wheel with bent arms at the elbows. You will have much better car control this way.
  7. Buckle passenger seat belt (if unused).
  8. Remove floor mats and ALL other loose objects.
  9. Clean windows and mirrors with windex.
  10. Apply racer’s tape / car numbers. Tape up the rocker panels below the doors and behind the doors go has high-up and all around the rear brake ducts. On tracks with debris and gravel, this is where 95+% of the paint chipping will occur.
  11. Make sure transponder, if any, is secured by at least two tie-straps, plus some tape is recommended, too.

Stuff To Bring (Required):

  1. Driving suit or clothes that meet requirements (long sleeves, long pants, cotton material, etc.)
  2. Racing shoes or similar that meet requirements (no open toe, etc.)
  3. Helmet (DOT may be acceptable; but check first. Best to have Snell 2000 or newer, SA rated rather than M rated).
  4. Required forms, completed in advance (e.g., medical, pre-tech, helmet/harness release).
  5. Race tape

Stuff To Bring (Highly Recommended):

  1. Printed list of DIC codes
  2. Tire pressure gauge
  3. Tire air compressor (or tank - air available at track)
  4. Engine oil (1-2 quarts)
  5. 1 container of brake fluid
  6. Brake bleeding equipment (tube/bottle, etc.)
  7. Duct tape
  8. Fire extinguisher (if mounted fire extinguisher required by event, ensure metal-to-metal mount)
  9. WD-40
  10. Windex
  11. Paper towels / rags / wipes
  12. Cotton towel for yourself
  13. Torque wrench w/ socket
  14. Other tools (sockets, wrenches, pliers, screwdrivers, etc...)
  15. Bottled water, Gatorade, etc.
  16. Food, energy bars, etc.

Stuff To Bring (Optional):

  1. Spare parts (This is probably overkill for the novice driver. However, it is always better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it.)
    • Serpentine belt
    • Brake pads
    • Rotors (front & rear)
    • Wheel hubs (front & rear)
    • Caliper bolts and caliper bracket bolts and caliper pins
    • Short and long 02 sensors
    • Knock sensor
    • Spark plugs
    • Spark plug wires
    • Fuel filter
    • Fuel injector set
  2. Jack
  3. Jack stands
  4. Jumper cables
  5. Funnel for oil
  6. Tie wraps
  7. Tire pyrometer
  8. Run flat aerosol cans
  9. Service manual
  10. Grease
  11. Hand soap or waterless hand cleaner
  12. Ice chest
  13. Sunglasses
  14. Sun screen
  15. Camera
  16. Camera batteries charged
  17. Extra tapes if you are doing in-car video (Don't use DVD or hard drive cameras. They don't record properly in the high G-force environment of the track.)
  18. Stopwatch
  19. Flashlight
  20. Map/directions/phone number of hotel
  21. Map/directions/phone number of track
  22. Gloves
  23. Folding chair
  24. Umbrella
  25. Ground tarp
  26. Rain tarp
  27. Extra set of keys

Beginning Track Session:

"Off the Line"
  1. Tire pressure
  2. Torque lugs
  3. Fuel
"On the Line"
  1. Memory Button (whatever track preset you have programmed for correct seat, mirror position)
  2. HUD – Track Mode
  3. AH – Off or Comp Mode
  4. NPP Valves – open (C6Z06 and so optioned C6 only)
  5. Radio/Nav – OFF
  6. Air Cond – OFF
  7. Seat Belt – Ratchet tight
  8. DRL’s – OFF
Off the Track or Between Sessions:

  1. Cool down lap - no brakes
  2. No parking brake in pit
  3. Check tire pressures hot
  4. Hydrate the driver
 

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You might want to add replace brake and clutch fluid with high temp brake fluid.

You don't want brake fade or the clutch pedal to stick to the floor from vapor lock!

Stainless steel brake lines and "Speed Bleeders" are also a good investment.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You might want to add replace brake and clutch fluid with high temp brake fluid.

You don't want brake fade or the clutch pedal to stick to the floor from vapor lock!

Stainless steel brake lines and "Speed Bleeders" are also a good investment.
Done.
 

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Excellent move!
Can the Mod's make this a sticky in this sub-forum?
At Home:
Fresh oil and brake fluid (flushed within 30 days)
DOT4 recommended, but not essential for first event.
Brake pads should be 50% or better.

At The Track:
EXCEPT C6Z06: Add oil to equal 1 quart over full (=7.5 qts)

Stuff To Bring (Required):
Helmet (DOT may be acceptable; but check first. Best to have Snell 2000 or newer, SA rated rather than M rated)
Required forms, completed in advance, e.g., medical, pre-tech, helmet/harness release)

Stuff To Bring (Highly Recommended):
1 container of brake fluid
Brake bleeding equipment (tube/bottle, etc.)
Stuff To Bring (Optional):
Umbrella
Ground tarp
Rain tarp
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Excellent move!
Can the Mod's make this a sticky in this sub-forum?
At Home:
Fresh oil and brake fluid (flushed within 30 days)
DOT4 recommended, but not essential for first event.
Brake pads should be 50% or better.

At The Track:
EXCEPT C6Z06: Add oil to equal 1 quart over full (=7.5 qts)

Stuff To Bring (Required):
Helmet (DOT may be acceptable; but check first. Best to have Snell 2000 or newer, SA rated rather than M rated)
Required forms, completed in advance, e.g., medical, pre-tech, helmet/harness release)

Stuff To Bring (Highly Recommended):
1 container of brake fluid
Brake bleeding equipment (tube/bottle, etc.)
Stuff To Bring (Optional):
Umbrella
Ground tarp
Rain tarp
Done.
 

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if no driving suit..

long cotton pants..
long sleeve shirt..
hot. !!
 

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Vant.....amazing work here. I personally thank you for this checklist. It's about as complete as I've seen. I'm in the middle of preparing for my first HPDE at Road Atlanta. I've pretty much done all you have suggested. I bought the blue painters tape but just zaino'd the car and also used the zaino sealant. Think I'll be getting some racers tape instead tomorrow. I've copied this checklist to microsoft word and will run it down just before I go.

thanks again,
Jim
 

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Vant,
That's a great list!

I checked your list vs mine and the only things missing were very specific to my SCCA T1 racing (like transponder, radio and video camera batteries charged, video film in case, etc.).

Thanks for taking the time to put that list togther for those newer to HPDEs. :cheers:
 

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Hi Vant:

You are my favorite "poster" for your wittiness. Now I see you are an organized and pragmatic person, too.

Here are a few more thoughts I had....

  1. Check sway bar nuts and bolts, especially on the front where the sway bar bolts to the aluminum a-arm.
  2. Make sure your brake lines have enough length in them when your suspension is fully extended
  3. Check wheel lug nuts with torque wrench
  4. Check tires for excessive wear, flat-spots, cuts and bad/worn/cracked valve stems
  5. Check wheels for cracks, especially around the spokes. This is even true of heavily used CCWs.
  6. If pulling tranny/torque tube out of car for other maintenance, check around the bolt holes on the clutch pressure plate for cracking. Once you get to 40-50 track days, if you pick up a vibration in your car that varies with the clutch in and out, I would bet the pressure plate is beginning to get cracks around the bolt holes.
  7. Add Redline Water Wetter to radiator
  8. Tape up wheel weights with duct tape or that shiney silver/heat-reflective tape so when the wheel weight adhesive melts from the rotor heat that they don't fall off your wheel
  9. Tape up the rocker panels below the doors and behind the doors go has high-up and all around the rear brake ducts. On tracks with debris and gravel, this is where 95+% of the paint chipping will occur.
  10. Make sure transponder, if any, is secured by at least two tie-straps, plus some tape is recommended, too.
  11. Make sure windows and mirrors are clean and not smudged, etc.
  12. Adjust mirrors
  13. Make sure seat back is up-right and seat is close enough that you can reach the steering wheel with bent arms at the elbows. You will have much better car control this way.
  14. Camera batteries charged and extra tapes if you are doing in-car video.
  15. Don't use DVD or hard drive cameras. They don't record properly in the high G-force environment of the track.
  16. With the car on jacks, wiggle the wheels. If they have some play and move back & forth with your hands at 6 and 12 o'clock, you probably have bad wheel bearings. If they show some play with your hands at 3 and 9 o'clock, you probably have worn tie-rod end-links
  17. Check rotors for cracks, especially the front rotors
  18. Thank your spouse profusely for his or her support in letting you go do a stupidly expensive endeavor. :lol::lol::lol:
:z::z::z:
 

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I've always carried a spare serpentine belt, as they may not be available at any auto parts store if you pitch one!
Yeah ... I now carry one of those, along with spare caliper bolts and caliper bracket bolts and caliper pins.
Thanks for keeping up the list, Vant ... :thumb:

Suggest adding "spare set of keys" to checklist ... strongly suggested ... :idea:
 

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Yeah ... I now carry one of those, along with spare caliper bolts and caliper bracket bolts and caliper pins.
Thanks for keeping up the list, Vant ... :thumb:

Suggest adding "spare set of keys" to checklist ... strongly suggested ... :idea:
If we are now going to consider spare parts, my list gets longer. I typically carried a box of spare parts including those listed above and:
- front and rear wheel hubs
- short and long 02 sensors
- knock sensor
- spark plugs
- spark plug wires
- fuel filter
- fuel injector set

Probably a couple other odds and ends I can't remember. However, for a DE, I'd consider most of these spare parts overkill.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I always bring extra rotors if I have the space.

Great check list:thumb:
Added.
I've always carried a spare serpentine belt, as they may not be available at any auto parts store if you pitch one!
Added.
Yeah ... I now carry one of those, along with spare caliper bolts and caliper bracket bolts and caliper pins.
Thanks for keeping up the list, Vant ... :thumb:

Suggest adding "spare set of keys" to checklist ... strongly suggested ... :idea:
Added. I hope the "spare keys" suggestion wasn't learned from personal experience. :p
If we are now going to consider spare parts, my list gets longer. I typically carried a box of spare parts including those listed above and:
- front and rear wheel hubs
- short and long 02 sensors
- knock sensor
- spark plugs
- spark plug wires
- fuel filter
- fuel injector set

Probably a couple other odds and ends I can't remember. However, for a DE, I'd consider most of these spare parts overkill.
Added. And if you remember those other spare parts I'll add those as well. :thumb:
 
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